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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
Managed to remove the compressor housing. There was some red sealant between the plate and the housing. I wonder if I should use sealant at assembly as well?
Despite all my efforts turbo housing was stuck and I really began to worry that even if I get it moving I'll damage the blades. Luckily I remembered that I have cheap android/pc borescope kit somewhere. Finally I got a good use for it.
Despite some marks on blades I believe this turbo will have some track time :)
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #103
Well, I might have missed something, but I haven't seen any o-ring there nor any place where it could have been installed.
Will check today once again...
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #105
VF's used some sort of orange rtv. O-rings are usually an aftermarket turbo thing
Terry, I watched your video on VF43 rebuild couple of times while trying to figure out what to do with mine, thanks! )))

Looks like it was original sealant then. Will Threebond 1215 work there?
I'ts basically everything I have on hand now - got it because it was recommended in the manual for valve cover gaskets job. Contact surface is quite big there, if sealant will be too strong it would be really hard to take this thing apart next time. Well... if anybody will ever need to do that )))
 

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Tubaru Pickup
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Terry, I watched your video on VF43 rebuild couple of times while trying to figure out what to do with mine, thanks! )))

Looks like it was original sealant then. Will Threebond 1215 work there?
I'ts basically everything I have on hand now - got it because it was recommended in the manual for valve cover gaskets job. Contact surface is quite big there, if sealant will be too strong it would be really hard to take this thing apart next time. Well... if anybody will ever need to do that )))
I never resealed mine, and i forgot an important step in that video. Mark a line across the compressor wheel, nut and shaft so you can line it back up after assembly. should keep it balanced
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #108
Well, I never touched that nut. I always thought that it's not a good idea to remove the wheel without balancing it all again, so I only cleaned it from the outside and put housing back.

Got some hi-temp RTV sealant today, will put it together soon.
Meanwhile, had to return loaned dremel tool, so tried to install bonnet locks yesterday.

Sort of final position of the latch:


Still need to clear the underside to finish the installation. And repeat it all on the left side.

Not the best place to mount aerocatch locks because there are three layers of metal in that area, and two of them bonded together with some rubber glue. I need to carefully remove it all but outer skin to install the backing plate on the underside...
But... there is no way back now :)
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Never thought about that. There are pates on this bonnet, they where painted quite bad by previous owner, look awful... And Shipping them out of Cyprus will probably cost more than they cost )
Meanwhile, end result:

Looks nice on the outside but from the inside it's quite a mess... Was in hurry to finish it, so cut some corners.. literally... Anyway, this bonnet had some damage to the structure form accident, so it's basically a good piece to train on.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
I've done one more stupid thing.. After I cleaned turbo I decided to fill the cartridge with oil so, I had turbo laying on the table like this:

And filled both supply and return lines with fresh oil...
Couple of days later I decided to put turbo back together and i found all that oil in the turbo housing..

Thinking about that I decided that it's probably normal because cartridge seals are not really supposed to work in this situation... Correct me if i'm wrong.
Gave it all a good clean and put it al together.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #114
Semi-annual update! :)
Well... almost. I hope that I will find more time for the car and it will be running somewhere in March.

Not much done since last update... For some reason I became really excited when I saw some inconel WRC heat shielding stuff, so I got myself some heat shields and spent about the month shredding a lot of paper for templates.
Finally one month later I got this:

In fact it took less than couple of hours once I decided to proceed with actual material rather than figuring out 20th edition of perfect template...
Anyways, prepearing for final assembly, need to decide on where to mount GM IAT sensor. What do you guys think about this spot?

I will have COP ignition, so there will be no coil pack at the top of the manifold. I heard that heatsoak might affect iat readings if it will be mounted on the manifold, how bad is it?
I wanted to start it with oem intercooler first, so I can't figure out better place for it now. Also thinking about adding meth injection to help stock topmount... probably add a nozzle at intercooler outlet, so IAT will be downtream from the system. Need to read more about it, it's kind of new thing to me...
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Yes, it's another option to consider. In fact wall thickness in not very good at the top, the idea is to drill and tap threads for the sensor which, I believe is 3/8 NPT. If it will not work , then I will have to get it somewhere to weld the bung in (bye-bye nice paint job)

I will try to fit it on the bottom somewhere today. Wall thickness there is probably the same, but it's flat, so will be easier to tap there. On the other hand, I believe that it's generally better idea to place any sensors in intake or exhaust facing downwards. We'll see. Need to put the manifold on the engine and to see if there's any space available.
 

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the iat element, on a gm sensor anyway, is inside a little plastic cage. If its heat soaking then its from the slower air flow inside the hot manifold and its still measuring correctly.

if you still using the pcv, dont put it anywhere near there or it could get oily
 

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Discussion Starter #118 (Edited)
the iat element, on a gm sensor anyway, is inside a little plastic cage. If its heat soaking then its from the slower air flow inside the hot manifold and its still measuring correctly.

if you still using the pcv, dont put it anywhere near there or it could get oily
yes, it seems that PCV is one more point against putting it on the bottom of the manifold.

I saw how you put your sensor instead of PCV valve and the spot is very nice, but I still want to keep PCV system.
 

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2001 Subaru Impreza L coupe
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I couldn't figure out what manifold you have, but the USDM wrx/sti manifolds have an 1/8" npt fitting for an evap vacuum line. Yours looks different but may have a similar fitting somewhere?

If you don't have the purge valve stuff you can remove the fitting and thread in the 1/8" npt sensor. Don't know if GM makes one, but AEM makes am 1/8" npt IAT sensor.

This picture shows the fitting on my mock up engine with ej205 manifold:





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #120
It's EJ20K manifold. Basically my engine is going to be EJ20G STi longblock with EJ20K electronics conversion except for keeping COP igniton. Thats... wierd :)

I already have four GM IAT sensors, three of them are 3/8 NPT and one is M18x1.5 because Chinese ebay seller, that's why :)
Got four of them since I was excited with water-to-air intercooler setup and I wanted to log it's efficiency vs stock setup
 
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