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1995 Impreza L with boost.
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159 Posts
Great build thread! I love reading about these home built time attack cars and what all is done to them. Got plans to rebuild my Type RA in similar fashion when I get the parts back stateside next year. That MapDCCD is awesome! I'm glad to see something that works so well with the older versions with all the data logging and sensor inputs it has. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see how it progresses.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Yep, MapDCCD is really great. It helped a lot to make it trough that 1:13 barrier, you can really feel how it works and see it in the log :) Too bad I had not enough track time to play with different maps/strategies.
As I said, my tranny/diff in coupe are quite noisy, well above the level you wand it to be in street/daily car and nobody wants to rebuild them here... Everybody just saying to keep it until it blows and then replace. So, if i would ever get involved in rebuild/restoration of the coupe I planned to swap all transmission from my coupe into the track car to have DCCD/R180/big hubs...
And then just get 6 speed or fresh 5 speed tranny for the coupe...
 

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1995 Impreza L with boost.
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159 Posts
I know all about a noisy DD ha. I've got the R180 swapped already with a Cusco RS LSD and subframe locking bolts, but with JDM bugeye STI 5x100 hubs. I love the short 5S from the RA though and would rather build that then swap a 6S. Plus it has DCCD so that's already there for me.

Your coupe is gorgeous by the way.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Thanks! :)
Managed to make first connections yesterday. Now two rear lines are connected together via T-fitting. Once I get this T connected to bias valve my rear lines will be complete.


Flaring lines appeared to be not an easy job. In fact every second flare I did was a failure. And since every line has two ends, 50% success rate was really not enough :)
I really want to think that problem is not my skill but rather the fact that I bought one of the cheaper ebay kits like this:

It does the job, but it's really important to keep stuff alligned and squared when you press it and pipe itself straigt when you cut it or fix it in the tool... And it's really hard to achieve because of tool design. Heating the tube kind of helped, plus I improved a bit after failing 3-4 times. Time will tell... Hope it will not leak.
 

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1995 Impreza L with boost.
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159 Posts
That's real good info to know. I need to upgrade my small V2 brake MC to the larger later model one to really push my brakes like I want them. I too will have to make/run new hard lines so I'm excited to see how this all turns out for you.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Well. Tried to mout brake booster and mc to see how it all fits together. Also installed actual brake pressure sensor to see how it's harness connector will clear solenoid bracket. Here is the result:




Looks like for now it clears fine, but one big question remains. How to route lines from MC to bias valve? They need to enter from the top of the valve and only oblious way to do this is to route them abovethe valve. But I don't like it since 99% it won't look clean, might be at the same height if not higher than max fluid level in MR reservoir and probably will mess up with the adjustment knob...
And there is not much space on the bottom either to route lines there because I need to connect three lines to the ouput pots and squeeze them between the valve and wheel well. Not even saying that pressure sensor will be in the way if I somehow get the lines under the bracket from the RH wing side...

Will be trying to solve this today.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Rear line is ready. Sort of. Left some space for the front one. Pics are self explanatory.



Whatever you do, use the right tools. I'm getting tired of this....
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Not much done with the car since last update...
Took Type-R for a spin to the track, basically in full stock specs, except for DCCD controller. Made a video just to remember how it all works ;)
Became a bit rusty behind the wheel...
anyway, it was fun! :)

 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
So, it's been a while since my last post.
First round of 2016 TA is scheduled on March 12, and I'm quite sure that I'll miss it :(

Couple of recent weekends turned out to be quite productive even with weather trying to mess things up.
I almost finished with brake lines but got kind of short on supplies, so ordered more line tube... Basically I still need to finish making two front lines and assemble the system.
Here is longest line 50% completed using original one as a guide. Still needs to be cut to length and final bends, as well as second flare...

I wonder if this was a good idea since it's not 100% as OEM for sure, so I expect fitment issues. Maybe it would be better to make it from scratch. Engine was in the bay at the moment, so I thought it's a good idea to copy original line...

My fake Advans are not clearing brembos :( Just a tiny bit..

Major disappointment since I didn't plan to by another set of rims...
Temporary fixed by adding cheap 5 mm spacer, but I don't like it. Looks like I will end up with some Rota or JR budget stuff, needed 17x8 rims for 235s anyway..

Engine is out! It was first time for me doing anything like this (messing up the car that bad :)) so it was a challenge. Everything went smooth and it looks like I haven't even broke anything.


Whoever did this last time did it pretty rough. One of the dowel pins is missing, in two bottom holes bolts are used instead of studs, so I can't get them out from bellhousing without removing CV joints, and some of different length bolts are kind of mixed up...


Will try to get some hardware to mount the engine to the stand and get valve covers out today.
The idea is to clean everything, check valve clearances and adjust it if it's possible, replace bunch of seals and gaskets, replace all cracked and worn hoses, install front entry turbo, yellow injectors, connect fuel rails in parallel and convert it to be controlled with V4 ECU.
I still have most of the parts to convert intake to V4, but as I started pulling parts from the shed I found that some stuff is missing.. Like throttlebody :( Who knows what else. So it's one more decision to make - should I convert it to V4 manifold or not?..
For now I stripped V4 intake, got yellow injectors out (what a PITA!) and sent them for cleaning.. There were plenty of metal shavings in the manifold (after snapped valve on old engine) - another risk of putting it on the car...

Anyway, it's good to be back! Got tired of watching it under dusty cover.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
This weekend I worked on engine to prepare order for engine parts.
Engine suffered from a old power steering fluid leak, so I decided to clean it and probably reallocate PS tank somewhere. Or at least replace some seals to stop the leak…
Also crankcase vent hoses become hard as plastic and all connections were leaky and dirty.
Before:


As the result I washed it three or four times every time removing more and more bits that were not allowing to clean it better.. Many cans of engine cleaner later, kind of semi-finished result:

later I removed timing bits and coolant tubes over cyl 2 ad 4 and cleaned it once again

Timing belt was off on all cams except for RH intake (1 and 3). Here’s pic of LH cams with crank marks alligned:

I wonder if this could be a cause of poor performance comparing to my other car.
most of the pulleys are toast, so gonna replace them and timing belt
Initially It wasn’t planned but I think it’s worth it. Oil pressure was solid and seal looks clean, so pump will stay on..
Water pump… Probably good idea to replace it because that looks scary:

Any idea is there a way to clean the block inside? I rinsed it with water, but maybe there’s some trick or solution for this specific job?
Another surprise was the turbo. While removing I found it hard to remove one nut right under the center section, so I decided to take the turbo out from hot housing to reach it. Result:


I didn’t broke it, it just fell apart.. crack is quite old and looks like it wasn’t leaking. Anyway, I didn’t planned to use it. Despite this turbo looks fine btw, no play or leaks…

By the way, is there a flex section in stock uppipe? Turbo mount flange is kind of loose on mine and it feels like joint is somewhere under the heat shield, can’t see. Wonder if it leaks..
Also question, does it makes sense in keeping stock heat shields? Mine are kind of reusable but they weight a lot.. I wonder if wrap works better or not?

Finally after final stage of cleaning I managed to pull out valve cover from LH side (2+4).
It’s for sure STi, not HLA heads.


Shims are 9.65 mm (? my caliper is crap) diameter with 6mm hole on the other side and have numbers on them written by hand.

Buckets are 30 mm diameter. This one seems to have worst wear although sits a bit tighter than others.

Are these (buckets+shims) similar to V3-4 and later bits? because I never seen them but by part numbers V1-2 STi shim setup looks different and unique although similar by design.
Cam journals are fine for me, which sounds funny because I never did anything like this before :)
I just never heard of anyone doing any polish/repair stuff on these, so I will just try to put it back together as clean as possible to not to cause more damage.
Exhaust cam, worst bearing:

respective cam journal

Intake cam caps, cam looks mint.


Still need to measure the other head and order correct shims plus some other stuff to put it together.
Now, questions:
Before final assembly would it be good idea to turn engine on stand till head will face downwards and spray it with some intake cleaner stuff? I will lube everything with fresh oil during assembly anyway and I wanted to get rid of any dust or stuff that may got there since I have to work outside… It wasn’t windy or anything yesterday and it’s not F1 engine but it’s not the best condition to work on engine and I don’t want to harm it in any way...
There was some silicone inside including in some threads… I will try to do this job better when I will put it together. Is there a simple way to clean old silicone out of threads?
Also if anyone has advice on valvetrain setup or coolant passages cleaning on assembled engine tricks or exhaust stuff that I questioned about, please share!
Thanks for reading! :)
 

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Tubaru Pickup
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3,910 Posts
nice work. the shims you need to measure the inside were it rest on valve. They are rarely out of spec so just put them back exactly where you got them

you heads look like v2 sti heads. v3 and v4 are the ej20k engines with cloverleaf chambers, the valve buckets are different diamteres. the early wrx heads wre HLA lifters, were yours are shim under buckets sti heads. O dont see any closed deck casting marks on block, usually v2 sti's were closed deck

looking again i think i do see the casting. Thats a closed deck v2 sti engine. not sure if you knew that or not
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Yes, I knew that it might be STi engine with closed deck block. But now it's finally confirmed.
I can't measure buckets since i don't have proper tools like micrometer. I have only basic cheap caliper which does the job for most of the time. So I'll trust the numbers for for now, but when I'll do second head I'll pull some buckets and give them to my mechanic to check and confirm sizing.
The clearances measured on LH head are too tight, around .17-.20 mm for intake valves and around .22-.28 for exhaust. The specs if I'm not mistaken are 0.25/0.35.
This is kind of strange because valvetrain was a bit noisy so I was expecting to see clearances above the nominal. Although as valve seats wear out clearances should decrease, so results that I got look realistic.
Will check second head and decide.. Maybe switch some of the shims to even the clearances a bit, or order some new ones.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
So, I got second head measured this morning before work and most of valves seem to be tighter than specs which is probably normal considering normal wear for 20-year-old engine :)

Since Subaru was kind enough giving nice description for shims in parts catalog that included shim "number" and thickness, I ended up with spreadsheet with calculations of required shims:

I initially set up "target" clearences to 25/35 and to get those calculations suggested me to get 8 new shims... I adjusted my target to .21/.33 as you can see in the table and this got me to the option to get only 6 new shims:


Looks fine for me :) Now I need to figure out other parts I might need to put engine back together and make an order.
 

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nice gotta love when you can move them around and only need a few extra. and that those sti engines were assembled by hand with hand written numbers on the shims.
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
yes, they were unique )
One of the buckets was labeled withs some kind of permanent marker, that's number 35 on the bottom one:
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Ok, it turned out nearly impossible to order V2 STi shims by OEM part numbers.
Well, it may be possible but list prices are 50 USD and more. I never tried ordering them.
Instead I found the way to get them from independent manufacturers. These shims are kind of widely used in different applications and there are companies that can make them in sizes you need. Also I found that correct specs for this engine are not 0.25/0.35 but 0.2/0.25 (in/ex). This was much closer to what I had in the engine so in the end I needed only three new shims. Now I think that it would probably be a good idea to replace all shims so they would be from one manufacturer, same design (in case there will be any slight differences).
I ended up ordering three missing shim sets in two different places, I'll decide when I receive my orders.
Tried to strip old paint from the manifold and paint it over the weekend but weather messed it up again :(

by the way, 1st Time attack event of this season was held this weekend. Best time in my category was 1:11.3x, which is 1.4 seconds below my PB in my Type R and some 4-5 second less than my PB in this specific car. Quite a challenge...
 

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probably the same, like you said, they shims are all made by a couple diffent companys. Pretty sure the hole buckets in my 96 are the exact same buckets in a Miata. I used the same video to clean my HLAs and they were identical
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
It seems that some versions of SR20 also had similar shims..
Anyway, photos from opening event arrived... I don't know why one needs to upload all the photos, but... here they are: Time Attack Championship by EKO -

First event traditionally is not the most attendable, some cars are not ready yet... ;) I heard that track was dusty and there were less grip than usual. But in any case there were couple of nice and rare cars there. Like, I personally was surprised to see Baur E30 in classic cars. Rare one by all standards.
Also I'm pretty sure I used to testdrive that specific blue RX7. It's seen better days but engine was pulling great. love the looks of those cars...

Just small memo for myself:
TA1-2016
Entrants: http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz23/777mav/Forum pics/12705651_739275596176045_2917819755995625445_n.png

Times: Event results - details - MYLAPS Sports Timing
 
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