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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #21
?

Btw, It seems that I have STi-Ra EJ20G version. It has 5th injector on top. I always thought that those HLAs are noisy... Now reading more about EJ20G versions it seems that there may be no HLA in my engine. Great.
Will try to get to ECU today.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Bought DBA drilled/slotted rotors, final component for Brebmo swap.
In total, car value incresed by 60% due to this brakes mod :)))
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #23
Pulled ECU out yesterday, it's Z5.
Z5 ECU code = 380cc injectors, 260ps TD05H turbo
Z5 - 1995/1996 WRX-RA - 12.57PSI (0.9BAR)

ECU has bridge for expansion chip, so ESL board can be installed easily. Not sure that it's worth it though. One more argument to support V4 swap is that I have datalogger connected to patch harness, so bacisally this way I'm saving myself from doing this job once again in this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
It's been a while since last post... Next race is in 9 days, so decided to sum up where we are to put thoughts together.
Couldn't manage get some time to work on the cars, but got some parts ordered and delivered.

Brakes.
Now basically I have everything to swap brembos in, but still waiting for flare tool and other supplies to make custom brake hard lines. Wilwood proportioning valve arrived along with remote knob kit. In fact these parts are not supposed to work together, but i've seen it was done before, so I hope I'll get functional remote brake bias control. Also I got 1600 psi pressure sensor to have brakinkg force in logs rather than just on/off value.
Suspension
I decided to not spend more money on suspension and just swapped whiteline roll center adjustment kit from black car. It doesn't need it with stock ride height anyway. will also try to rotate mounting brackets on front arms rear bushes aka free caster mod. Need to finish with rear arms swap, will try to remove adjustable arms from the black car on this weekend. Kind of dropped the idea to remove rear arms from the white car myself, bolts are just dead stuck. Hope that I will be able to remove arms from black car though and hand the car to some shop next week. Rear coilovers are rebuild and ready to be installed, so at this point I think my suspension will be finished.
Power and weight.
Patch harness is arrived. Now I can start merging 3-plug ECU and 4-plug harness to work together. Still need to pick up my old engine from mechanic to get turbo, injectors and other bits inspected, cleaned and tested. Then fun part will begin.
Got myself a bucket seat. Old steel framed sparco model with one nasty hole on the side :) It came with modified rail and it's nice that it will fit bolt-on, although i don't like the way it's done. Anyway, gave it a good clean, will do for now. Also with the seat I got rear trunk with V3 spoiler and fog light covers fro the front bumper (weight reduction begins! :)). Decided to not use spoiler though - it weights too much to justify the installation, in fact I don't believe that any legal areo mods will help in my class at my speeds.

Talking about the weight I was kind of shocked when I saw brembo brake disks in person. They are really huge comparing with my current ones. I think it will have big impact on acceleration since they all are rotating masses that need to be accelerated each time. So It would be fun to see wether increase in braking perceision and performance can overcome increase in weight and rotating masses and will i manage to improve track time with brembo mod on it's own.
It's not necessary to participate in whole event to find out that though, so I'm not sure if it's worth going to the next event. Even if I manage to get brakes done, without power and weight reduction there's not much sense wasting tyres and time spending whole day on the track to have only two race sessions... So I think I'll opt for dropping next event, finishing brakes and suspension in their planned configuration without a hurry and then testing car when it'll be ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Next race is in two weeks, I'm totally off the schedule and have no time for the car :(
Last sunday managed to get adjustible rear arms removed rom the black car, it now has completely sock suspension. Passed MOT (bi-annual roadworthiness inspection) that expired in February and drove the car a bit. So nice!

Other nasty problem I managed to solve was removind db-killer from exhaust. that was a challenge.

After I failed again removing rear arms from the track car, gave up on this and took car to friend's garage.. Picked it up today, now suspension is ready for race.

Had aircon system discharged, can remove it now.
Next on the list are brakes. Tried practicing with flare tool, first flare was great

next one - not so good...

Thinking about placement of bias valve, piping... It's tricky since I plan some major changes in the engine bay. Luckily I have EJ20K under black car's bonnet for reference.

Then it will be time for adding power. Thinking about two intercooler options - water to air setup or front mount with rotated intake.
Front mount looks pretty straightforward but I don't like frontmounts on subaru. So if I will go for it, I'll have get manifold rotated for shorter intake length. Another thing that I always wanted to do is water to air system with heat exchanger in stock i/c location. It will add some weight but I like the concept and short intake length. Also it's better efficiency may help in hot Cyprus weather while removing hood scoop might improve flow throgh radiators.

Got DZ03G Dunlops ordered in 235/45 R17. A bit odd size for GC8 and might require arches modification, but they don't make other 235 sizes and I really liked DZ03G performance.
 

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The subaru of many acronyms
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If your able to do a little bit of custom fabrication you could do your own v-mount radiator/intercooler setup, or the water to air setup would work as well and could be very useful for time attack since you could install an icebox if heat is an issue. you could've probably gone up to a 245 tire without much work to not have it rub, if your rubbing with that tire, your probably too low and or too soft for the factory suspension geometry to be useful.

Are you still on stock header? An equal length one should help with spool up and response on the turbo a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Under the bonnet the car is as stock as swapped car can be

there are no mods except for turboback 3 in exhaust...
but plans are v3 intake manifold and vf28 turbo.
Need to think about exhaust manifold, but if I go for it, it's rather will be some cheap ebay stuff. Some of those work well, but some can even make worse...

regarding 245 section tyres, Dunlop doesn't make 245s in 17 inch :(
I had to choose between 235/45 R17 and 255/40 R17.
245/40 would be perfect, but...

v-mount... there is something magical in this word :)
unfortunately, it's beyond both my budget expectations and my fabrication tools/skills..
 

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I feel like you should be able to get your own setup going for half that kit, while only using basic tools to fit everything. Ive used radiators and such from this place with no issues, CXRacing?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yes, that's the core I was thinking of. And that's the one which made me thinking about v3-v4 manifold swap because this core will not fit with EJ20G manifold. Im 99% sure :(((
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Every time I saw bandoned car journals I was thinking like "WHY YOU NOT WORKING ON YOUR CAR?!!!" Well, turned out that it's not that easy. My day job is as far from working on cars as it may be and this summer in Cyprus is really turned out to be too hot to work outside on weekends.
Also not helping progress with the car is that I bought myself a motorcycle :) Not sayint that it stole much time from the project since it was too hot to work on it but I spent couple of saturdays riding in the mountains :)

Car is standing without wheels and brakes for couple of months now and serves as really good anchor for the bike. Chaining bike to the towing hook lets me sleep much better becasue my friend's R6 was stolen recently from his house :(

Lazyness as it is:
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Thanks! I'm trying :)
So, yesterday I got from work very excited to do something on the car. Finally. Probably had too much coffee. Anyway, I opened a hood and started thinking what to do.
It’s really hard to decide where to start. During quite long period without updates in my journal I managed to remove aircon compressor, so now it was a mess and after couple of month I hardly could remember where did I put my tools…

BTW, that's WTA intercooler CORE mock-up from carton. Without endtanks.. V2 maniford is really not cool for top mount options...
Also my new tyres arrived - same Dunlop DZ03G as I had before, but in 235/45 R17. Size is a bit odd for GC8, but I have other problems to solve before it will become top priority.

So, quick update on my TO DO list:

Brakes.
Delete ABS, install brembos. Simple. More below.

Engine. (electronics)
V2=>V4 conversion. Should be pretty simple, but I’m a bit nervous about it. patch harness arrived, so I hope that major harness splicing will be done there, keeping it as clean as possible. Cmon, who am I fooling? it will be a mess, for sure...

Engine (mechanical)
Strongly tied with v4 ECU swap. Engine has loud valvetrain noise, leaky valve covers and cracks in almost any rubber hose on it. Idea was to keep it on budget, so I didn’t wanted to go deep in it planning to get as much as I could from stock unit. But common sense suggests some preventive maintenance. I have all the parts to do valve cover job and might try to adjust the valves. Tricky part is that it might be rare V2 STi engine with unique shim under bucket design and shims might be hard to find.. Otherwise it’s HLA and they are just noisy…
Also on the list - v4 manifold swap (if necessary), 440 injectors, parallel fuel rails mod+AEM fuel pressure regulator, VF28 turbo. I have all the parts, just need to put it all together.

WTA Intercooler
Decide on base kit
get it
install it :)
If I get full v4 manifold conversion I might use spare v4 intercooler I have as tempo solution.

Misc - finishing touch
Walbro fuel pump,
Complete AC delete
Audio delete/Central console with all the stuff that I need (datalogger, WTA IC controller, remote brake bias adjustment)
Wheels/tyres issues
Mapping


Since car is currently is on jackstands without wheels and brakes, I decided to finish with the brakes first.

I was trying to decide where to put brake bias valve and which front lines I might use.



Ended up with idea to put it where ABS unit is located. Since i’m not 100% sure about engine configuration and which intake will be used on the engine, this spot looks like the only place which might not cause fitment issues in the future with both intake components.

Previously I was stuck because some bolts were missing to mount front calipers and some flares were stuck on ABS unit. Luckily hot weather and soaking two months in wd40 did helped and ABS unit is out!



Now I need to clean up working space for fabricating brake lines, the plan is to have both front lines made from scratch and re-use only rears.
Also I have universal Allstar aluminium brake disc cooling ducts. They’re not really fitting great on the hubs from the first look, but I’ll try to figure it out...
I hope next update will be this year :)
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Some parts popped up on local marketplace. I'm interested in exhaust manifold, but I don't think it's any better than stock.. What do you think? Any good?




Ad says "For sale : stainless steel exaust,down pipe ,up pipe Twister, carbon rear lights , adjustable rear wing spoiler ( 4 ways) , unequal length manifold, intercooler,alloy rims,full glas front lights and many more. " Looks like somebody is parting up his project.
 

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^ I wouldn't put any of that stuff on the car, especially the exterior bits. You guys are lucky because your cars come stock with the best exterior styling. Here in the US we have to buy all the crap to make the cars look the way they're supposed to look.

I love your type-R. Such an awesome looking car and a great setup. Are there any updates?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks! My Type-R is now my daily driver since I gave my Forester to a friend while his car is being repaired. It really reminds me what a great car it is but also to-do list on it is growing... Some strange clicking noise in suspension, loud transmission whine and scratches/paint chips all over.. Some interior parts are showing their age and gauges lighitng started not turning on sometimes, probably relay is dying...
Car almost has 150k kms on odo... And I keep noticing it in every spot I look at :(
After all money and time spend on it it needs basically full resroration :( That's very discouraging.
Anyway, I managed to spend couple of hours on weekend working on car... Most of it was wasted searching for tools and stuff, but I managed to wash the car, get all brake parts together and mock-up some of the components under the bonnet.


Here how brake bias walve will probably be installed:




Unfortunately it will not clear V2 intake, so no way back
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
2015 season is over, so I'm not in hurry now :)
The fastest car in my class was still ZR1 with crazy 1:09.3, but second fastes as of the end of the season is.. GC8!
This one:




Haven't seen the car in person this year but I heard it runs GDB internals and 255 R17 Hankooks Z221...
Also some rather big turbo setup is spoted under the bonnet:


these guys have a team running bunch of GC and GD cars and as I can see this car got some parts from their badass green hillclimp coupe car... Probably they used not only exterior and aero parts ;)

Well... Taking into account my current progress, making any estimations on my future lap time will be ridiculous, but I would really like to get into 1:10.xx, which is light years away from 1:15 in opening event this year.

My plans are the same. Get brembo brakes and adjustable bias valve in, abs, stereo and aircon out. Install water-to-air intercooler setup, wire in V4 ESL ecu and datalogging, get VF28 turbo in instead of td04 and kinda tune it, put 235/45 R17 dunlops on and adjust suspension. That's all for now.

Working under the bonnet I found that almost any vac hose under the bonet become cracked, so probably I'm gonna need kind of "gaskets and stuff" maintenance since oil is all over the place from valve cover gaskets...

Doing this I will also try to measure valve clearence (because it' quite noisy) and I need your advice on how can I tell from looking under the valve covers if engine has HLA setup or this is early STi shim under bucket valvetrain?
 
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