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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #181
Progress update:
Alignment is done!


with -2.5 degrees of camber on all corners there seems to be more space available.
Managed to get 4.5 degrees of caster as well, steering now feels heavy and racecar-ish )))

Also I finally dialed in my 3d printer and made myself a string alignment system to quickly check toe myself.

That took some time, but now I feel I can print stuff quick enough with more or less predictable quality, and I'll probably use it more from now on.
3Bar GM map sensor is installed, showing about +0.05 bar now, need a bit more time dialing it in ECU
Next is wiring. Car has a bit of wiring mess under the dash left from original swap and me installing gauges and wideband.. It's a bit scary because I feel it may immobilize car again for a few months if I'll not finish it in one blow, but I got to do it someday...
 

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97 WRX STi Type-R
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Discussion Starter #183
For street car that works fine )
This year I expect that competition will be pretty tough.. and my goals are really optimistic ))
I don't think I can win anything in horsepower arms race, so my focus in general will be on learning, tuning and getting as much as possible from the package I already have. So, I plan a lot of experiments with suspension and since almost any change in ride height or camber will affect toe, I decided to invest some time and effort in strings system.

need also to spend some time managing this process, maybe make some kind of logbook/worksheets to leave comments for different setups, some calcuated fields and other stuff..
 

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Turbo, LS swapped Impreza RS
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Do you have any pictures of how you used the 3d printed pieces to align it? I have to align the majority of the vehicles I deal with at work with string.
 

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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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Do you have any pictures of how you used the 3d printed pieces to align it? I have to align the majority of the vehicles I deal with at work with string.
I'm interested in this process as well. Also, got them files?

I have used this a few times working on family/friends cars when doing major front end repairs and have always come out in spec when they got their alignment done after the fact.

Toe settings I always use the chalk line around the circumfrence of the tire and a tape measure method. Also, always within spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Basically the system I made looks like any other string kit available. In fact, all components of the system are in the photo in my post above. By the way, it took three or four hours to print those parts ;)
And that's probably about 1/4 of components needed...
I got one one 8 hour print and one 10 hour print sessions and rest of the parts (around 30%) were test items from previous iterations that were "good enough".
I made all components myself from scratch and personally I think that it would be easier if I had a welder - just weld three pieces of square tube together to form three 3*90deg fixtures, drill holes and weld nuts on them to screw something in to fix tubes sliding inside them.
Dimensions are affected by materials that you have locally. I found aluminium tubes in hardware store nearby, namely 20*20 mm square tubes and 16mm round ones. That's it!
End result:

Strings tensioning:

Disassembled:


I don't know how durable it will be, to me the weak link is glued connection of three square pieces that form each fixture.
Quality and strength of any 3d printed part depends on your skill with 3d printing and understanding of the process :)
It just so happened that to me this was more accessible than welder and I wanted some practice with CAD :)
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Stock pan for now. It wasn't an issue on 215 tyres. Not saying that I'm not worried about that, but I've seen cars faster than mine running stock sump as well.
This is one of there reasons I want standalone ECU to monitor things like oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #191 (Edited)
Yeah, -2.5 front and rears is what worked for me before, that's why I decided to start from these as base line... wider tires with same roll stiffness might call for more camber, but with good caster angles I have now car is gaining more camber when steering is off center then before. We'll have to wait for trackday to find out for sure..
In the meantime I started removing dash to delete remains of AC system and sort out the wiring, and my worse forecasts came true.. I managed to spend only several hours on Saturday with the car and now it looks like this:



And pic under the dash shows how things are done there, I haven't done anything to make it look worse.... yet. ))

Instrument cluster is what made me stuck right now... Car has cable speedo and it seems that it needs to be disconnected from gearbox first to get dash out, which called for removing intercooler and some other stuff that was in the way..
I have electronic VSS laying around, and V4 ECU will be happy with it, I believe, but then I'll have no speedo reading on my V2 dash.. Anyway, I couldn't remove dash on Saturday and on Sunday some other things got priority, so car left undrivable until next weekend.. Hopefully... Because the more time passes from disassembly, the more time it usually takes me to put it back together. And also it means more unnecessary parts in the end :naughty:
Also I wanted to put steering angle sensor for datalogging somewhere and it seems to be more difficult than I expected. I ordered some generic 360 deg hall sensor with 0-5v output, so I need to connect it to steering shaft somehow with 2.5:1 reduction or whatever lock-to-lock turns my rack has now. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #194
I remember that cable should pop out somewhere... Dash just doesn't move to get any access behind it and I didn't wanted to apply force to it... I planned to check manual before I approach it next time.
Regarding electronic VSS, it'll probably will go in together with standalone. someday :)
 

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Discussion Starter #195 (Edited)
Had a chance to spend several hours working on a car yesterday.
removed the dash to get better access to wiring...
Frankly, it was scary to touch that mess ))

Don't have "after" pic bud dash is installed and all junction blocks and holders are now in their places and everything is much cleaner now...
also removed steering column switches to clean them from 20+ years of dust and install steering position sensor somehow. There seems to be plenty of space under the housing:

Can someone confirm me that these keys on the ring are just interface for airbag spring ring thing?

This is my understanding of their purpose since I can't see any way they are used in my current setup (have no airbag)
the idea is to design and 3d print this ring with toothed wheel on the outside for small timing belt going to the sensor...

Also I confirmed that speed sensor cable just pops out from the cluster, but also it consists of two parts - lower short piece bolted to the gearbox and upper part going in the dash. Connection between them is easy spring lock and it was very easy to disconnect to get some extra cable length for removing the cluster with cable still connected...
 

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Discussion Starter #197
From what I can see, keys that cancel turn signals are the ones that are a bit deeper in the assembly on this ring. You can even see spots where they are a bit worn working against this white piece on the left.
Also these two keys I'm asking about are different in size like there should be something that you only can install one way, with respective slots in it... It really looks just like a spacer about 10mm deep... So I think it's for airbag ring, as well as many unused screw spots on the front face of the assembly. It even seems to be able to accommodate different styles of it according to number and location of those screw holes...
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Lesson learned today, never use cheap swivel AN fittings )
Car was parked for a while, I was testing some electrical stuff and heard sound of a leaking fluid. Turns out there's a river of fuel flowing on top of the engine from a leaky swivel hose. Not from threads or hose connection, but from actual factory swivel joint...
It was a no-name one that I got as part of ebay billet fuel rail kit.. I was lucky with chinesium stuff before but it seems that I might be running out of that luck...
All my AN fuel hoses are out and all three similar fittings are going to be replaced. I wanted to go for non-swivel ones, but local shop got only the ones of exactly the same design. At least quality seems to be much better.. No time to change the design now, next time attack event is this Sunday and I still have a lot of work to do with the wiring...
The one that leaked held up 6 months (with barely 100 km/60 miles driven)... Probably it would have started leaking earlier if I drove the car more...
I don't know when I'm going to start it without fire extinguisher in the other hand though... It's just fuel for nightmares... Literally :)
 
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