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2001 GC6 BRP
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130 Posts
So it could be a damaged sensor or just something in the connection?

Just confused about where to start since its a new knock sensor with a p1325
 

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subaru impreza cutting off

when i disconnect my maf sensor the car runs but rough and hesitates but with it connected it stalls within a few seconds i cleaned it but that didnt work either. the check engine light is blinking but auto zone got no codes for it. what could it be
 

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00' 2.5RS,05' CGM STI
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196 Posts
I am currently in the same position as many of you. It has been bogging down for some time now. I replaced the plugs, wires, and coil pack cause it was saying I had a lot of mis-fires. After that it drove better, but that did not last. This morning I barely made it to my nephews school and I heard a loud popping sound when starting from stop and I had to punch the gas to get above 3500 rpms. I also have no CEL and the car just idles bad. I am lost I am going to replace the PCV valve and see but I do not think I can get that lucky. I can barely even drive the car. Any ideas?
 

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serenity now
AW 99 2.5rs, LRP 11 wrx
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4,124 Posts
when i disconnect my maf sensor the car runs but rough and hesitates but with it connected it stalls within a few seconds i cleaned it but that didnt work either. the check engine light is blinking but auto zone got no codes for it. what could it be
if it does not start with the maf plugged in but it does with it unplugged it is your maf
 

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07OBS
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55 Posts
I am currently in the same position as many of you. It has been bogging down for some time now. I replaced the plugs, wires, and coil pack cause it was saying I had a lot of mis-fires. After that it drove better, but that did not last. This morning I barely made it to my nephews school and I heard a loud popping sound when starting from stop and I had to punch the gas to get above 3500 rpms. I also have no CEL and the car just idles bad. I am lost I am going to replace the PCV valve and see but I do not think I can get that lucky. I can barely even drive the car. Any ideas?
Did you have oil in the plug galleys? I had oil wicking up my #3 cylinder with the same driving condition as you. The plug had a burnt carbon trace all the way around it. So I did some new seals from Subi, new plugs and cleaning the spark plug boots & I haven't had a prob since. The coil pak and knock sensor both had the proper resistance so I did not replace them. The new seals have a slight ridge added to them I guess for extra compression? Also initially I did change the O2 sensor by recommendation of another member but that did not resolve it. If your PCV rattles when you shake it it's good.
 

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00' 2.5RS,05' CGM STI
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196 Posts
I just did the the gasket about a 2 years ago. I did not notice any oil though. I am wondering if my cats could be clogged up but I am not sure. I am going to try autozone and see if they can get any codes at all. Otherwise I might break down and have some one just diagnose it but I really do not want to spend $90 unless it will fix my car.

Edit: As I thought the PCV valve did not change anything! Still idles very rough and there is a pressure wave that you can hear in the exhaust. You can hear it pulse up and down. The interior lights I just noticed follow the same pulse as the exhaust. I also noticed a good amount of oil buildup on the underside but it is not dripping on the ground it is just collecting.
 

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2000 2.5 RS Matte Red
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167 Posts
I just got a CEL code tonight. Low choppy idle and hesitation. Code is P1137, manufacturer control air fuel metering. What could this be??

2000 2.5RS Coupe
 

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2000,2.5RS.GM6
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69 Posts
I just have to say that after cleaning and replacing the Spark plugs wires and gaskets it was noticeably better due to better conductivity, The next thing i did was clean the grounding points and run some heavy wire parallel with them back to the negative battery post. this helped the most over anything including a ecu reset and a heavy seafoam. I recomned you atleast take the main ground off near the headlight and inspect it.
Also if you have a Foam HKS filter like i did make sure you didn't suck that old pos in.
That got me a P0420 CEL code. Related to the rear o2 sensor.
 

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2001 RS
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106 Posts
I've had this hesitation problem with my wife's RS for months. But it was not doing it all the time until last week. It got so bad that it was back firing, getting really bad gas mileage, felt really slow and a check engine light finally popped up. Got the the fault read at autozone and it said it was #2 cyclinder misfire. I changed the spark plugs and wires. This fixed it so far. For the last two days there has been no hesitation and the car feels strong again! But when I took out the plugs and wires I found them covered in oil. My plugs were all messed up.
 

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98 OBS
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674 Posts
:curse:

Am i the only one wishing their damn car would throw a CEL ??? Just so I could narrow down whatever is causing my idle/poor mileage issues without replacing a crap ton of things like 02 sensors, fuel filters, air temp sensor, plugs & wires, EGR & TPS :/
 

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1996 imp jdm ej20 NA dohc swap
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400 Posts
:curse:

Am i the only one wishing their damn car would throw a CEL ??? Just so I could narrow down whatever is causing my idle/poor mileage issues without replacing a crap ton of things like 02 sensors, fuel filters, air temp sensor, plugs & wires, EGR & TPS :/
Are you even sure the check engine light actually works?? Maybe it is burned out....
 

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98 OBS
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674 Posts
good call but no, it works. the at oil temp, oil, brake, battery & check engine all light up prior to ignition



Edit: careful what you wish for... changed my fuel filter during lunch (cheap and easy) and now i have a CEL but i'm not noticing any difference in how the car was running 20 minutes before changing the damn thing lol
 

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1994 WRX(GC8)
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31 Posts
i hope someone will read this... reviving the thread.

have a 94 GC8 2.0 turbo

Problem:
-semi-rough idling at start up
-car hesitates a lot on cold start, usually have to wait for a few min for the car to warm up before i can drive. even after it's semi-warm, car still hesitate (almost as if it's hitting fuel cut between 2-4k rpm, tried it in 2nd,3rd,4th gear) and if i was to smash around for a little bit to really warm the car up, problem goes away.
-engine bogging? i would let it engine brake in 3rd gear, but as soon as it gets to 3k rpm, it would sound kind of rough goin down in rpm, not very bad sputtering but i can hear it. and in second gear it would happen in about 4.5k rpm going down.

does this sound normal? what gets me is the engine braking being a bit rough...

any help or advice or suggestion would be greatly appreciate it.

im goin to start from the very basic even though i've already changed them about 2-3k miles ago. start from pcv, fuel filter, spark plugs.
 

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78 Posts
I have looked all through this thread and I haven't seen a problem like I am having..I have a very interesting cut out issue. It only happens after cruising down the highway for about 20 plus miles and only when the car gets good and warm. If I just fire it up and drive around the city it will never do it all day long. What is happening is when I am at a constant speed say around 70 mph and I have my foot just barely resting on the gas pedal I get a total throttle cut out. When I press the pedal a little more it goes away and runs fine. It is only when I am at a constant speed for long periods of time and when my foot is just resting on the pedal. It is really bad when going down hill because I either have to speed up or coast.. When I change the adjustment on the TPS I can actually cause the dead spot to move slightly.. I have 2 new TPS sensors and they all do the same thing.

I have changed the TPS, MAF, Plugs, Wires, O2's, Coil, Valve cover gaskets, cleaned the Throttle body, ETC..
Tested all the wiring and sensors for the correct Ohm's and volts all the way to the pins on the ECU.

Nothing has any effect on this problem..

Any thoughts or ideas??

Thanks in advance...
 

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2000 Coupe 2.5Rs Pearl Blue
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8 Posts
2000 subaru impreza rs 2.5 coupe 5 speed.
My check engine light is on and i had it scanned and it came up as all 4 cylinders were misfiring. I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Car runs and drives but not perfectly. Ex: when im driving n i hit the gas a little before halfway or halfway sometimes, the car would just start speeding like wtf is going on with that it happens constantly and idk if its my knock sensor or coil pack or anything else. the car bogs and feels like it hesitates. Is it a sensor or my car not getting much fuel? Please help

What seems to be the problem on my car?
 

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78 Posts
2000 subaru impreza rs 2.5 coupe 5 speed.
My check engine light is on and i had it scanned and it came up as all 4 cylinders were misfiring. I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Car runs and drives but not perfectly. Ex: when im driving n i hit the gas a little before halfway or halfway sometimes, the car would just start speeding like wtf is going on with that it happens constantly and idk if its my knock sensor or coil pack or anything else. the car bogs and feels like it hesitates. Is it a sensor or my car not getting much fuel? Please help

What seems to be the problem on my car?
I replaced my entire engine wiring harness all the way to the computer and now I have no hesitation issues. I actually put ALL of my OLD sensors and parts back in just to see what would happen and it runs perfect. I took the harness completely apart and tested every single wire and I STILL can't find a bad wire even after going through every single one. I have no explanation for what it is still or what I did to fix it. The only thing that I can POSSIBLY come up with was the computer was unplugged and without power for about 4 days while I changed all the harness over and maybe a bad spot in the programming was removed? That is seriously stretching it but that is the only possible thing I can come up with.

I honestly don't know what to tell you about your problem because it could seriously be anything. I was getting TPS voltage high codes and my Auto trans was shifting so hard the tires would break loose. I believe that what ever your problem it is causing a totally different code then what it is. These hesitation issues are crazy to say the least. I would start with the Map sensor and go from there.. I believe that 2000 is the year they switched to Map??
 

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Okay thanks ill try the Map sensor then coil pack
Would not hurt to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what it reads. You may also want to drive with it hooked up to see what it reads when you can starts cutting out. Coil Pack would not hurt either. I would try to find a used one somewhere first to make sure it is it.. Don't do like me and blow hundreds on stuff you don't need only to find out it is something else all together. you can't return sensors or electronics once installed..
 
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