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2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS Asp
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152 Posts
STiShawn said:
for some reason 8 gauge sounded right, but as Phil said..its was 12 gauge and it is HIS wire after all....oops.:eek:
i think 8 gauge wire is ideal and wise for anything battery related. i personally wouldn't use anything thinner.
 

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8GA is the size of the wire powering the starter! 8GA is appropriate if you need MEGA current with low voltage drop. If the sensors/actuators on your car are pulling more than a handfull of amps, you've got serious problems elsewhere. Maybe if you were running five hundred watts of stereo equipment (high instant demand), or needed a solid ground for some big lights I could justify 8GA. The way I see it, it already had sufficient ground to work OK, we are just shoring it up a little, and augmenting the aluminum/steel path (read resistance), with a nice copper path. Besides, 8GA weighs about 4x what 12GA does.
Someone in another thread thought that the 8GA spec might be for RF resistance. But AFAIK RF induction would be more dependent on length/orientation/proximity than the thickness of the conductor. I'll be happy to admit it if I'm wrong (afterall, that's how we learn!), but I've yet to see anything but other people's opinions. If this is really an issue, I'll go disconnect the one from the battery terminal and measure the current going across it. I'm betting it's less than 1A, and mostly AC noise from the alternator if I scoped it.
 

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well, the more ground wires your run, the thinner you will need them, correct?

anyone have a pic of their engine with these additional ground wires run?
this way i can have a general idea of where to run them. or have a pic with circles pointing out where to run them.

thanks
 

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R35/BO, XE30/AS, V37/MW
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111 Posts
As for me, my hesitation problem started after my 1st oil change at the dealership...it's like if you try to smooth take off, sometimes it would seem like the car is choking...asking for more fuel, and then if you give gas it will choke even more. The solution is clutch in and then give more gas before release the clutch a bit faster.

This is bugging me since, and back then the car was totally stock! I have heard about hypersensitive of the knock sensor or some sort, but never been really confirm...and other people are saying it's the oil change causing air bubble to trap in or something like that...

Oh well, the dealer couldn't fix it, and I guess my baby just isn't design to take off gently (it's made to be driven aggressive like she looks) :D
 

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2004 Forester XTi
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Am I the only one who used 6 gauge wire? I got it from Autozone for $2.69 and it's 19in long. I ripped off the huge connecter (for the neg) and used the copper wires (guts) to connect from the neg with the end of the wire to the intake manifold bolt. The intake manifold is pure aluminum. Aluminum is a really good conducter of electricity. After resetting the ECU, the engine is noticably smoother. Hesitation is hardly noticible on my car, but I still did it for the engine smoothness. If you haven't tried it, do it. Worked for me.

I'm just a little paraniod if the 'unprofessional connection at the negative' wires corrode if it gets water on it. Oh well, I'll have to find out.

Edit: Second gear starts @ 0 mph without the engine gasping for power.
 

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2001 Subaru Impreza RS
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586 Posts
For the grounding pics provided above, is it necessary to have a positive and negative wire (Red and black) coming from the negative post, or is one wire sufficient? Do you think that connecting multiple wires to the alternator, strut brace, and everything else is necessary, especially using high gauge wire, or is it just making sure? Will one wire grounded from the negative post be good?

Nick C.
 

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COwannago said:
For the grounding pics provided above, is it necessary to have a positive and negative wire (Red and black) coming from the negative post, or is one wire sufficient? Do you think that connecting multiple wires to the alternator, strut brace, and everything else is necessary, especially using high gauge wire, or is it just making sure? Will one wire grounded from the negative post be good?

Nick C.
i don't see how you can get a positive cable from a negative source. all the wires are negative grounds (don't be confused by the red ends on the connectors (they came that way 3 red 3 black)
 

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MY98 2.5RS Coupe Brilliant Red
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880 Posts
From what I've read, the best thing to do is start with 1 ground wire. Drive the car, if it feels better, try a second. If it still feels better, try a third. No difference there? Then stop with 3 to be safe. Each car will be different.

My question is over the transmission. I'm not exactly sure I feel "hesitation" with my 4EAT. I'm probably going to pick up some 6 or 8 gauge wire this weekend and give it a shot and see if there's any noticable difference.
 

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It's not a GC
07 WRX Wag0nz
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9,387 Posts
Hey guys I have not read the whole thread about this problem but, I am too having this problem on MY'01 RS I have installed a Weapon R intake system (soon to be InJen COLD Air Filter) and a Cat-Back A'pexi exhaust use to feel it bad when I only had the Intake and I thought this might be cause by the expansion of gases that were trying to scape through the exhaust this went away when I installed my exhaust and the car would just take off I love it you can feel the difference but up until recently this problem started again and though it is not all the time (maybe once or twice a week) this is really bugging me also from time to time I feel the car as though it has lost some torque maybe this is a whole different issue and by no means do I want to go of topic anyone has experienced the same thing???Thanks

Frank
 

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1993 Miata-T
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224 Posts
That Grounding mod is a bunch of bullshit. I know someone that did it and it didnt do shit. I would save the small amount of the cost of this mod and wash the car or something...
 

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Impreza 2.5rs
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745 Posts
SPG mod works

I did the single point ground mod. It does work. Makes the entire car feel smooth. No chokes in 1st or second and the rev range feels nicer thans before the added ground wires. It looks like a pretty stupid mod, but it was cheap so i figured i'd try it. I am very glad i did.
 

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MY98 2.5RS Coupe Brilliant Red
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880 Posts
I did it as well this last weekend. Maybe it's mind over matter here, but my car did feel better as well. The normal bog that happens starting in 2nd gear from a stop (using the 4EAT) wasn't there at all, or atleast it wasn't as bad. The entire rev band seemed to be smoother. All it took was some 10 gauge wire, O-connectors, and zip ties all bought from Lowes to get this done. Spent less than $5 on it total.

I hope to get someone else in the car this Friday/Weekend and use both our butt dynos to figure it out. Some runs without them connected, and then connect them and run the same stretch of road again. I'll post when I find things out.

And if I could wash my car decently for $5:rolleyes: , I wouldn't love my car.
 
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