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Ok, so I have the haynes book for the legacy (same ej25). And I'm following the torques specs and it says torque to 25 ft-lbs. Ok no prob. The next one says torque to 132 in-lbs. I'm like.... what? I'm thinking I could do some conversion and I get 11 ft-lbs, but if that were so then why didnt the book just say 11 ft-lbs? Am I doing the conversion right? Are these specs right? It just doesnt make sense to tighten and then looses, and then the next steps are to turn 90 deg. and another 90 deg. I just wouldn't think that would be enough torque.
Anyhelp that I get will be greatly appreciated, as I need to get my car back up and running.
Thanks in advance.
Courtney
 

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Here's what ALLDATA has to say:


1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads.
2) Tighten all bolts to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.) in alphabetical sequence.
Then tighten all bolts to 69 Nm (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft. lbs.) in alphabetical sequence.
3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again.
4) Tighten bolts (a) and (b) to 34 Nm (3.5 kgf-m, 25 ft. lbs.).
5) Tighten bolts (c), (d), (e) and (f) to 15 Nm (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft. lbs.).
6) Tighten all bolts by 80°to 90° in alphabetical sequence.

CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90° .



7) Further tighten all bolts by 80°to 90° in alphabetical sequence shown.

CAUTION: Ensure that the total "re-tightening angle" [in the former two steps], do not exceed 180°.

Sounds wacky, but I'd trust ALLDATA before I trusted Haynes
 

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Thats the way all head gaskets are....it is to make sure that you get the gasket on right.....I would follow the haynes becuase if you mess it up you will be doing it again in a month...and I hated doing the gasket on my neon and my neon was much easier to work on than the 2.5rs.:curse:
 
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