Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

21 - 40 of 87 Posts

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Pictures have been transferred over, so they should be working.

I have been making a few shakedown runs. Had some hose clamps on the fuel lines loosen up. So far so good with most everything else. I have an occasional intermittent CEL for the IACV so I have to investigate that.

I do however have a problem with the gearbox. I bought it used and it was sitting on a pallet since about 2005 until I installed it last year. It does not spring back to center from the far right (5th and Reverse) position. It just lays there as if there is no spring. Also very, very difficult to get it into 3rd and 4th gear and the others just don't feel right. Once in gear it is fine and does not pop out or anything. Any ideas? I have a bad feeling I'll be pulling the gearbox again and I am not looking forward to it.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Haven't driven it too much. I am concerned about underhood temps with the wiring so close to the 3" downpipe so I am trying a little bit of header wrap to see if it does anything.


Just because I was curious, I drained the trans oil. A little over 100 miles on it and quite a bit of junk on the plug. No big hard parts though.


I fear I will still have to pull the gearbox, but I will probably push that back for another month or so. Just no time or room right now to have a disabled car taking up the garage.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I have been way too busy to work on the car, but I have put a few more miles on it. The trans is driving me nuts. I am going to replace it.

Although I dont have one yet I have decided to alter the original plan for the car since its no longer a daily driver. I'm making the jump to 4.44.

Since the L was a VA style open 4.11 rear differential I need to upgrade when the trans goes in. I have had a JDM R160 LSD in storage for a long time with matching axles so I decided to build up a diff with that.


I purchased a used 4.44 rear diff as the donor.


Took the guts out, swapped over the 4.44 ring onto the LSD, put new bearings and seals in and reassembled.



Just need to double check backlash and get some new studs and breather for the rear cover.

Then when I swap the trans I can just swap out the entire rear end at the same time.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Replacement transmission should be here Monday. I hope it's not a dud. I plan to have this one refreshed before I install it.

Waiting on a few more little parts to finish up the 4.44 rear diff and blended the JDM bits into the USDM gauge cluster in prep for the enhanced functionality the new trans has (hopefully).

 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
An update from the past few weeks:

The trans arrived a couple of weeks ago! I had to drive to the Flint airport to pick it up from FedEx.




It’s a 5 speed DCCD box from a Version 3-4 type RA.
It’s pretty nasty and missing a few pieces which I’ve already ordered. It sat in the garage for a few weeks until I was able to get it to the rebuild guy. Hopefully it’s rebuildable.

While I was waiting for the rebuild guy to become available so I could drop it off I got the car ready to accept the DCCD Pro Spider.


I had to run a wire through the firewall but all my holes are already full. So I decided to make a new one. Here is were I REALLY messed up. While adding a hole next to the one I used to run all the wires inside from the pressure sensor, boost control solenoid etc, I was in a hurry and measure incorrectly and drilled right through the harness I ran for all that stuff on the passenger side shock tower!

I took a break for a few days, ordered some parts and made a new harness to replace the damaged one. I added some watherproof 6 pin Deutsch connectors this time so i can disconnect and reconnect from underhood and from interior wiring as needed this time. I also sealed the new hole, added a grommet and ran DCCD wires as well as wiring for the IAT sensor for the Link ECU. I added the IAT sensor into the BPV hose, we will see how that works out.


I took a break from the Impreza because the Baja needed a new passenger side ball joint and a driver’s side control arm bushing. Of course the pinch bolt broke...



With the Baja back on the road it was back to the Impreza. The plan all along has been to replace the non-functioning tape deck with a single DIN gauge pod. i was quickly realizing that was going to be difficult with ALL of the wiring from the old Clarion Auto PC. As cool as it was back in 2001 when I installed it, it was time to go. I yanked out the head unit, the GPS unit, boxes under the seat and lots and lots of wiring. It made for so much more room behind the dash for new stuff and removed several pounds of weight.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Still wanting a basic radio for the times I do drive on the street, and having some unused Amazon gift cards, I ordered a basic Kenwood head unit with Bluetooth. It arrived the next business day. I wired it up and installed it. It sounds pretty good through 22 year old cardboard speakers! With the Bluetooth, aux in and USB ports it is really quite nice. It weighs a lot less and frees up a LOT of space for new accessories.


Now for the gauge pack. Wanting three gauges in a small space meant small gauges. Not really much out there in 45mm, and I couldn’t find any old school Omori so I settled on some affordable pro sport gauges. I got Boost, oil pressure and oil temperature. They will hopefully be good enough to use as a reference.

I drew up a gauge pack in google scetchup and printed it out in two pieces on my 3D printer. I then glued them together and attached the gauges.






It’s not perfect but its close enough to what I had in mind that I’ll probably stick with it. They still need to be wired up but that won’t happen until I install the sensors at the next oil change.
 

·
Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
·
27,852 Posts
damnit. i need a 3d printer. would make life so much easy.

also, the gauge pack looks awesome. from an aesthetic stand point, i would have swapped the gauges and radio. the gauges sit out a little from their mount and would look good under the lipfor what i assume is the cupholder pull out...although..sitting over the kenwood might overlap too much and be in the way. so..nvm. lol
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Good point. I had always just planned on it replacing the tape deck that was there so that’s what I designed around. Plus that’s how I have it in my Baja so I’m used to it there. But it’s easy enough to swap the two since they are each just held in by 4 screws in the stock radio rack. Next time I’m in there I’ll swap them and see how they fit/look.

The 3d printer is awesome. I’m still learning it. I’m not an engineer and havn’t touched any CAD software since AutoCad2000 so I kept it pretty simple with Sketchup. I’m pretty happy with the results though. It was good practice for future projects.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
More of the same.
Took the center stack out again to clean up and re-run some wires and finalize the DCCDPro install. While in there I tapped into the radio harness for gauge power and illumination.

The DCCDPro, switches and indicators seem to be working as they should. Now I wait for the transmission rebuild to be completed.

 

·
Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
·
27,852 Posts
are you getting a not full power situation to your gauges at all? i too used the radio harness to power my aem gauges, and every now and then, the center gauge is like half as bright as the other two.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Not much new. Just picked up the type RA DCCD transmission from getting torn down, inspected and rebuilt/sealed.



In addition to having it refreshed and inspected, a Ver.5-6 STI helical front diff was swapped in place of the original open front differential.

I’ll work on degreasing the case some more and getting it ready for install in the spring. It’s going to be really hard to wait. I’m really looking forward to seeing how it performs with three new differentials in it!

On a negative note, when I got home with the trans, the Baja was pouring gear oil all over the driveway. Looks like an axle seal blew out :facepalm: Just can’t win sometimes.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Too cold to work on cars.

But more parts keep trickling in for spring installation.




Mocal oil cooler stuff. Hopefully I can squeeze it all in there with minimal effort!
 

·
Premium Member
98 2.5RS - V2 WRX Swap
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
I know it's a PIA, but you're really going to want that IAT sensor in the intake manifold somewhere...Runner or plenum. My 20K didn't have a great spot in the plenum, so I ended up drilling and tapping one of the runners.

Keep it up though man! I love this car.
 

·
Registered
1995 L
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Bummer, I was afraid of that. I was hoping post intercooler would be sufficient enough. I didn’t want to put a hole in the manifold unless I had to. It’s so perfect and blemish free!
 

·
Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
·
27,852 Posts
on the back of almost all the usdm mani's ive seen, there is a blank spot on either the driver's side runner by the brake booster port, and then another on the pass side where the small port for the fpr ties into. neither.. of which i see in looking in the pics of the back side of your mani. however, the bolt hole that is just down a little to the side of the iacv..can you use that for the drillytappy instead of whatever bolts there?
 

·
Premium Member
98 2.5RS - V2 WRX Swap
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
on the back of almost all the usdm mani's ive seen, there is a blank spot on either the driver's side runner by the brake booster port, and then another on the pass side where the small port for the fpr ties into. neither.. of which i see in looking in the pics of the back side of your mani. however, the bolt hole that is just down a little to the side of the iacv..can you use that for the drillytappy instead of whatever bolts there?
In fact, my EJ20G intake mani already had a 1/8" NPT hole in it with a bolt/plug. I just pulled that out, screwed the sensor in, done. The 20K on the other-hand was not so easy. Really not a great spot for it where you can also reach it to plug it in.
 
21 - 40 of 87 Posts
Top