2000 2.5 RS Impreza 4 door
This is actually a thread to keep from junking up tnice17's thread. http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86421
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Here are the related posts:
How come I have a big RSB and I can never get my back end loose?
whiteline adjustable on the stiffest setting
stock everything else for suspension
Hmm I have a adj. whiteline RSB on the stiffest setting as well.
Two words: trail braking
From reading tnice's story it sounds like he tightened up on the brakes mid corner, this a perfect way to induce oversteer every time, and the very definition of trail braking, he just wasn't ready for it + the varying traction of the dirt on the side of the road vs the pavement is what did him in.
You could also use the old scandanavian flick.
Yah I can get the backend loose with a high speed (~35-45 mph) scandinavian flick. So maybe a stab of the brakes mid corner would help? I think Ive tried it before but maybe Ill go out to an empty parking lot one day and try again. I just wish I could do some power induced oversteer or even snap-oversteer insted of power induced understeer.
As far as suspension Ive got 22-24mm WL RSB, Front and rear endlinks, KYB AGX + SPT springs, -1.75 F -0.75 R camber, 0 toe, 235/40/17 Azenis, and I think thats all thats really relevant.
it's almost impossible to get the RS drivetrain into power induced oversteer on dry pavement. I can't even do it with my swap. Wet surfaces and gravel is another story.
Trail-braking is a very useful technique, but difficult to practice safely.
You are probably just going into corners too hot. It honestly doesn't matter what kind of car you drive, you will still plow like no tomorrow if you go too fast into a corner, and mashing the throttle won't help much.
Mid corner is usually too late for low-medium speeds (<45mph). Assuming you are taking the corner aggressively, your front tires will already be loaded close to the max... if you jab the brakes you are usually more likely to overwhelm the front than the back = moAr understeer If you are "plowing" mid-corner the only thing you can do is let off the throttle if you're on it. What you want to do is basically have the brakes still applied a bit as you begin to turn so you still have the back of the car unloaded.
Also, if you want you car to be more tail happy, set the rear camber closer to 0, and front closer to -2.5 or so.
I don't think kainam00 was talking about for sliding around the back roads. I'm pretty sure that he and poleboy were talking about for inducing rotation for autox/rallyx.
I know the basics of understeer and oversteer. What I try to do it brake at the beginning of the turn to get better turn-in and then hold the traction limit the best I can through the corner. But what I was trying to say was when I break the traction limit anywhere in the corner it is understeer. I just always hear about people saying they get the back end loose w/ their RSB all the time. And I dont want to have more chamber cause it have to DD my car more than race it.
You want oversteer? Lift
0 out the rear camber, it will help the car rotate.
Also, camber alone doesn't eat up tires that much. Camber + toe does. As long as your toe is close to 0, your tires will be fine.
People may also be lying... and/or driving on crappy tires. I can induce power oversteer on 195 width snow tires no problemo... even on dry pavement.
Im not going to get more chamber because I dont need anymore wear on the inner portions of my tires. But it may be true people are on crappy tires and thats why the back end is coming out. As far as camaroz, you mean lift, like throttle-lift/snap oversteer? That definately doesnt work on my car. Maybe I should look at ass-happy center diffs in the future?You will still get some camber wear on the inner edges over time.
We are taking this way off topic though. I'm sure we could discuss this in the Susp. area.