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2004 Subaru Impreza RS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have a 2004 Subaru Impreza RS and have just ordered suspension parts for my car (swaybars, bump steer adjustment etc.) I am still on stock struts with lowering springs and have also bought some camber bolts front and rear. The car is a daily driver however I often take it out on mountain roads and plan to use it for autocross and track days in the future. I'm looking at running -2 degrees of camber in the front and -1.5 degrees in the rear with 0 toe and as much castor as possible. Has anyone run a similar alignment setup and if so what were your thoughts on it? How bad would tire wear be with a setup like this? Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers.
 

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2000 RSTi
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There's some threads on the subject, such as this one:

I'm not a suspension guru, but I do a lot of reading. I'd encourage you to do the same, search for "camber setup" or similar terms to find threads like the above.

What do you think, @2pot?
 

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2004 Subaru Impreza RS
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There's some threads on the subject, such as this one:

I'm not a suspension guru, but I do a lot of reading. I'd encourage you to do the same, search for "camber setup" or similar terms to find threads like the above.

What do you think, @2pot?
Yeah I've been doing a lot of reading on it but haven't been able to find many people running the specs I was thinking with a similar suspension setup to me. Alignment is happening on Thursday so I'll see how it goes.
 

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'95 JDM WRX wagon 2.5T
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257 Posts
There's some threads on the subject, such as this one:

I'm not a suspension guru, but I do a lot of reading. I'd encourage you to do the same, search for "camber setup" or similar terms to find threads like the above.

What do you think, @2pot?
Road car, GD-wise:
Alignment: start with zero front toe.

If steering is subsequently twitchy - too responsive to steering inputs, use front toe-out: negative 0deg 03mins (0.06deg or 1/64" or 0.4mm) per side,
To quicken turn-in, use front toe-in: positive 0deg 03mins (0.06deg, 1/64" or 0.4mm) per side - may adversely effect mid-corner and corner exit.

You can increase/equalise the front caster by slacking the 2 bolts on the rear lower control arm bushing and prying the bush forward and outward. Aluminium arms - flipping the pin that holds the lower control arm rear bush and/or adding a spacer will also increase caster.

Rear toe-in: 0deg 03mins (0.06deg, 1/64" or 0.4mm) rear positive toe-in, per side = running a rear slip-angle gives instantaneous response to steering inputs, high-speed stability and more stability under high-speed braking.
The rear toe adjusters often rust solid (a UK link of parts required):
Subaru Impreza Turbo Rear Lateral Link Inner Toe in Adjust Bolt Kit

Front camber: negative 1deg 45mins - 2 deg (1.75deg - 2 deg), per side using off-set Whiteline or Pedders front top mounts - the Pedders seem to be more long lasting, at the moment. I wouldn't use this much front negative camber, if a lot of freeway use.
Or, max out the negative adjustment, with a normal front top mount.

Front strut 2 x lower bolts 175N/m (129lb/ft).

The rear camber isn't technically adjustable, but there is play in the lower strut bolt holes - slack, pry and push to equalise:
Rear negative 1deg 15mins -1deg 30mins (1.25 deg - 1.5 deg) per side. You can minimise the rear camber, before adjustment, by torquing the strut bolts when the rear suspension is in full droop.

2 x rear lower bolts 197N/m (145lb/ft).
I don't like rear aftermarket camber bolts - due to their reduction in torque setting.

Slack off the roll bar bush clamps/bolts, front and rear, before installing/torquing any new suspension into place.
Make sure the full weight of the car is back on its suspension, before re-attaching the roll bar - otherwise the ride height may be held up, or be uneven.
A bent drop-link will also cause uneven ride-heights.

If changing struts/springs, see if you can get a deal, where you take the car back after 500miles of driving (as the bushes and struts settle to their new positions) to get the alignment checked/adjusted for free.
Have a FULL tank of fuel (or put 100lb/50kg of weight in the boot), for the initial alignment and the re-check . Half a tank of fuel add 50lb/25kg etc.

Road tyre pressures (check before alignment):
Start with minimum 33psi front, 28psi rear
Maximum: 36psi front, 34psi rear.
Keep the rear pressure 2, 3, 4 or 5psi lower than the front.
Increase the rear tyre pressure to increase oversteer/manage understeer.
 
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