What model is the vehicle you put the motor in?
FWD to AWD, or Rebuild FWD?
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So if anyone is still interested, I managed to get about 85% of the parts I needed, there was a gap in this because I lost my prior job and had to find another one and play catch up, but now that things are back on track I was able to go to pull & save and grab what I needed. All I have left to get is a clutch alignment tool, a fuel tank, one front trans axle, and the portion of exhaust that is different to fit around in the back.
What I've acquired so far is both the rear hubs and assemblies, drive shaft, rear differential, rear drive shafts, every mount needed to attach it all, heat shields, clutch (yes I know, but it will work for now, and it isn't that hard to pull the tranny on these cars from what I've experienced when I need to replace it), shifter and linkage, and whatever else that landed in the tool box, numerous plates, nuts, and about 100 or so bolts, I'll attach a picture of the collage I took before tucking it away until I had a chance to work on it.
Everything I got cost $355 and some change after tax, so it pays to go to the pull it yourself place and get it. So I'm estimating it should cost me around $200 to finish buying my parts, and while I hunt the rest down, I can do some cleaning of what I have, and start assembly.
I pulled everything from a '99 Forester, I pulled one of the rear trans axles from a '98 that was an automatic, but I'm assuming that won't matter since there's no gears in that part to worry about matching to the tranny.
I may need some new parts for the clutch like a master cylinder, etc, but I will get to that when I get to it. I'm also debating possibly pulling one of their engines and dropping it in the car not long from now, since the current motor has 224,000 on it, but it ran fine before so if no hang ups I'll call it good and insure it and put it on the road.
Here is the pic of my collection:
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I know everyone said my best bet was to buy another car, but if this works I'll save around $2,000, and if it doesn't line up, I can get my money back on craigslist and try again.
I'll post pics as I reassemble and keep anyone interested updated. Thank you to everyone who gave me all the input, via open forum and pm, I really do appreciate it, it helped a bunch.
What I've acquired so far is both the rear hubs and assemblies, drive shaft, rear differential, rear drive shafts, every mount needed to attach it all, heat shields, clutch (yes I know, but it will work for now, and it isn't that hard to pull the tranny on these cars from what I've experienced when I need to replace it), shifter and linkage, and whatever else that landed in the tool box, numerous plates, nuts, and about 100 or so bolts, I'll attach a picture of the collage I took before tucking it away until I had a chance to work on it.
Everything I got cost $355 and some change after tax, so it pays to go to the pull it yourself place and get it. So I'm estimating it should cost me around $200 to finish buying my parts, and while I hunt the rest down, I can do some cleaning of what I have, and start assembly.
I pulled everything from a '99 Forester, I pulled one of the rear trans axles from a '98 that was an automatic, but I'm assuming that won't matter since there's no gears in that part to worry about matching to the tranny.
I may need some new parts for the clutch like a master cylinder, etc, but I will get to that when I get to it. I'm also debating possibly pulling one of their engines and dropping it in the car not long from now, since the current motor has 224,000 on it, but it ran fine before so if no hang ups I'll call it good and insure it and put it on the road.
Here is the pic of my collection:
I know everyone said my best bet was to buy another car, but if this works I'll save around $2,000, and if it doesn't line up, I can get my money back on craigslist and try again.
I'll post pics as I reassemble and keep anyone interested updated. Thank you to everyone who gave me all the input, via open forum and pm, I really do appreciate it, it helped a bunch.
I know this thread is over a year old, but I've got a question that relates.
My FWD '93 might be toast. I will be dropping it in the next few days to replace the clutch and repair a few oil leaks. But during the last 2-3 weeks of driving it, it developed an RPM consistent "knock/peck," whatever you want to call it. I remember from years ago having an Altima that made the same sound and it was the input shaft on the trans.
SO, with the rarity of these transmissions, can I use a 4WD, remove the output for the rear, and machine a cover?
My FWD '93 might be toast. I will be dropping it in the next few days to replace the clutch and repair a few oil leaks. But during the last 2-3 weeks of driving it, it developed an RPM consistent "knock/peck," whatever you want to call it. I remember from years ago having an Altima that made the same sound and it was the input shaft on the trans.
SO, with the rarity of these transmissions, can I use a 4WD, remove the output for the rear, and machine a cover?
Sorry for bumping a dead thread, but it's the closest I've come to the info I seek after weeks of searching multiple sites (BBS, UltimateSubaru, NASIOC, RS25).
Can anyone clarify that an AWD front diff is indeed different than a FWD front diff?
My FWD legacy has this weird shuddering under any load whatsoever. The shuddering gets faster with vehicle speed, regardless of gear selection. This happens after several minutes of driving, regardless of engine temp, which makes me think the front diff is getting hot and acting up. I'm going to flush and fill with fresh fluid today, but the fluid on the dipstick looks pretty clean already.
I love the long legs of this 3.70 FD transmission and would hate to drop down to a 3.90/4.11, this thing already loves to blow the tires off in first. Can I get away with a 06-07 wrx front diff, I believe they are 3.70....?
Thanks in advance!
Can anyone clarify that an AWD front diff is indeed different than a FWD front diff?
My FWD legacy has this weird shuddering under any load whatsoever. The shuddering gets faster with vehicle speed, regardless of gear selection. This happens after several minutes of driving, regardless of engine temp, which makes me think the front diff is getting hot and acting up. I'm going to flush and fill with fresh fluid today, but the fluid on the dipstick looks pretty clean already.
I love the long legs of this 3.70 FD transmission and would hate to drop down to a 3.90/4.11, this thing already loves to blow the tires off in first. Can I get away with a 06-07 wrx front diff, I believe they are 3.70....?
Thanks in advance!
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