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Impreza Actual
2001 RS-T
Joined
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1,282 Posts
This is so cool. I like your story about collecting all the exterior parts. I am looking for another aluminum hood right now but don't want to ruin a new one (Needs a little clearancing).

I love the new QP!
 

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They call me Garrett
98 RBP V4 STi Swapped RS
Joined
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4,103 Posts
Discussion Starter #2,204
Defi DIN Gauge Pack

So I had originally planned for some wild intricate gauge pack in the center of the car and reality sort of hit that I needed some gauges to go racing and didn't have time to make everything work right, and make it look clean so I caved in an bought a set of (used) Defi DIN gauges.

I bought them for a RHD car to the tune of about $200 less than brand new for a LHD car assuming I could do what I thought I could do: tear the thing apart and just flip the gauges over. I was planning on opening the pack up to put a custom screen in anyways in the future so I wasn't really worried about popping it open and breaking it, or finding out what I wanted wouldn't work.


So I got it in the mail and immediately opened it up.





The good news was that I could just flip everything over and have it work... for sake of the exterior piece.. that will now forever say "Defi" backwards and upside down.




While I was at it, I roughly measured out how bad it would be to put a screen in one of the slots.. and with my smallest screen it doesn't look impossible.. though I will need to get a smaller one.

I'll end up putting some ECU parameters on this as I don't really need coolant temp and oil temp/pressure is what I am after anyways.




Anyways, for the time being they are going in car as it is and luckily enough, all I had to do was add in the pressure sender and reuse my oil temp sender with the new style Defi controller plugs.

I decided to add in the pressure sender in place of the factory oil pressure switch. I kind of didn't want to do this as it's nice to have an extra "hey idiot" light, but I have an idea of how to make this light work as a settable warm light on the cluster. More on that later... I already have too many ideas and projects..




The rest was your simple run wires and bolt things up situation. I used a brand new OEM pod kit and the unit bolted right up to the DIN bracket. There are a few gaps that I'm not super excited about, but they don't seem to be that big of a deal. I have a few ideas if I decide I don't like the gaps in the future.







Right now the rightmost temp gauge isn't hooked up and sorta just bounces back and forth.. but.. that's fine because the pressure and temp work perfectly and I'll end up removing the other temp in the near future.

I already sort of miss the pocket.. but I should be able to adapt. I think also in the future I am going to paint the needle white pieces black to match the cluster, but that would be too OCD for trying to get the car to the racetrack at the start of June.

That's all for now :)
 

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They call me Garrett
98 RBP V4 STi Swapped RS
Joined
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4,103 Posts
Discussion Starter #2,209 (Edited)
Spec C Oil Cooler + Timing Belt + More

Woo! More mods! Let's get this story started, because it's a decent one.

So I started out with with an S202 oil cooler kit, as well as a Spec C thermostat adapter and my thought process was that whichever one made sense to use, I'd use. The S202 had the advantage of being bigger, and would have more mounting freedom in the GC that wasn't made for either kit. The Spec C adapter had the fact that it would clear the twinscroll headers easier, but I was missing pieces.

Regardless, before I added in the business, I needed to swap over the water pump to one with 2 ports and not 3, pull out the OEM oil warmer, and plug the galley plug that sends coolant to the warmer. To do this I bought a new 08 WRX pump and while I was at it I grabbed a Gates Timing Belt kit, with the OEM bearings of course. Standard job, pulled everything apart and got going.




Pulled the bumper off so I could easily mount and play with the cooler. When i opened up the covers I found something interesting...




Nope that's pretty standard.




As is this..



Yep that all makes sense.




Huh. That makes a little less sense.

Timing was a tooth off. No idea for how long, if it happened back in Japan, or while I've been driving, who knows. Both exhaust cam gears were off and so I just decided to put em back to where they were meant to be.

The tensioner looked like it may have had a weird moment, but hard to say really.





Comparison between new/old pump..






Oil warmer out and old coolant nipple out..






Didn't have the right size allen bit, so I finally found a use for the torx plus bits I have.





So cool, timing done, new hardware in, old hardware out, time to try to check fitment of both...


... but to save you all the pictures I took it came down to this: The S202 adapter fit okay, but routing the AN lines was a pain in the ass. The Spec C adapter fit flawlessly, but was super close to the firewall. Not the biggest deal.

The story gets good when a buddy who lives across the state and I were in the opposite prediciments. We both were trying to install oil cooler kits on our cars (his is a V7 STi swapped bugeye) and were both having fitment problems. I had the S202 kit, he had the entire Spec C kit. Neither fit either car, so we decided to trade. I gave him a buzz and a few hours later and some beer and conversation later, I had a full Spec C kit, and he had a full S202 kit. Things work out super well sometimes.

Went to bed for the night and started up the Mini to drive to work for the first time in weeks.


Immediately got to work upon getting home on Monday, and once again I'll save you a ton of pictures and struggle, but I basically took 4 hours to bend/fit/mount and generally fit the Spec C kit on to the GC. I did the same thing on Tuesday afternoon and made some brackets for mounting. It took me a while, because I'm mostly spatially challenged (this is why I am a software engineer), but what I ended up with is something I am super satisfied with.

I had to notch the bumper mount a tiny bit, and cut some pieces on the lines themselves, but it's attached to the body, adapter, and the core. Woo!






Used a little bit of sliced rubber line to make a bit of a padding around the headlight metal.







While I was in there I also notched a PS reservoir mount (from said buddy) to work with the beam bolt.




not the prettiest, but it's sturdy and mounts the PS reservoir that's been hanging there for months. Still have good access to the headlight plug and everything else too!

I also had to trim the bumper about an inch or so to clear the core. I had drilled two small holes into the front rad frame to mount it as well. Shouls also note, I painted over all my bare metal. Prolly won't do a lick of good, but.. at least I tried.








While everything was off I also replaced the destroyed fog brackets and added in the orange bumper vents on the bumper.



Ended the night with just needing to grab fluids and screw together a few things.

Tonight I added oil (put in some 5w50 Castrol Synthetic, bit thicker than what I've used before), put in coolant and buttoned everything up.


Started her up and already idled much better with timing on point. Went for a short drive and got the oil nice and warm. Looks like the t stat opens around 85 *C and temps drop around 15 degrees C with normal driving. Dunno, will have a better report as I drive more.




Gave the car a quick wash before final assembly.




Super happy with the work done. Super happy with being able to drive a fun car to work (the Mini) and come home and work slowly on a car I love. I feel more confident in the car and myself after having done this, and now I just need to play with the timing/boost maps a bit after actually having timing on point now... hahaha... all in due time though. VERY CLOSE TO PERFECT and race day is 3 weeks out!
 

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Premium Member
96 Impreza Coupe
Joined
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1,587 Posts
Looks great! I didn't know there was a difference in the s202 vs spec C Kit's. That would make sense for the EL vs UEL headers though. Super cool you were able to trade parts with your friend! Those OEM cooler kits are rare and $$$.

I need to get off my ass and install my MFactory oil cooler kit I have had sitting BNIB since 2012...

Is the core gonna clear your A/C condenser where you have it mounted?

Speaking of which not having the condenser in there makes easy access for the timing belt! I'm sure you are aware of this but the JDM motors have a 60k miles timing belt change interval ca the USDM 105k miles. Probably due to the higher redline.
 

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They call me Garrett
98 RBP V4 STi Swapped RS
Joined
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4,103 Posts
Discussion Starter #2,216
What track are you going to?
Gingerman for Gridlife Midwest

Looks great! I didn't know there was a difference in the s202 vs spec C Kit's. That would make sense for the EL vs UEL headers though. Super cool you were able to trade parts with your friend! Those OEM cooler kits are rare and $$$.

I need to get off my ass and install my MFactory oil cooler kit I have had sitting BNIB since 2012...

Is the core gonna clear your A/C condenser where you have it mounted?

Speaking of which not having the condenser in there makes easy access for the timing belt! I'm sure you are aware of this but the JDM motors have a 60k miles timing belt change interval ca the USDM 105k miles. Probably due to the higher redline.
Yeah the condenser fits in just fine, i checked before final assembly.. it's just a clusterrrrrr of a mess with the condenser because it's a phase 2 condenser with a phase 1 radiator. It needs to be addressed.

T belt maintenance periods are just different because of the "intended drive cycle/use" between the US and Japan. Parts are functionally the same and redline shouldn't REALLY matter, but maybe.
 

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They call me Garrett
98 RBP V4 STi Swapped RS
Joined
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4,103 Posts
Discussion Starter #2,218 (Edited)
Hey here's a project without updates for a while!

More K-line data stuffs!

Was finally able to get fast polling up and working with (yet another) complete restructure of my code. Added in some more diagnostics too and am running the internal serial diagnostics for my communications at 2M baud hah! I haven't seen any data loss yet either, but there are some more optimizations I can do.

I added in some data update loop time timer diagnostic in to see how fast I was querying and displaying data as well, which is useful.



On the screen I have the Vehicle Speed PID (parameter identifier) routed through to my IAM display, so that's why you see it in the 80s. Again, it's just an easy to change parameter so I use it to develop with.

We can also see the loop time from the second the controller asks for data from the ECU, up to the point where the parameter is displayed on my screen (getting to that in a second) is about 80ms on average. That's not too bad considering it has to receive, parse, scale, send and drive the display all in that 80ms. I'd like it to be a little better, but it may only get worse with the more information I have to put on the display. If it gets bad, I may swap to an external controller to drive the display.

The fast polling is worth about 20ms of loop time, that is to say without fast polling each loop takes about 100ms instead of 80, which is a 20% decrease.. soo. PRETTY good to have it working!

Because I am now querying data at a more consistent rate, I am able to trigger on the data line with my o scope and watch data move. Here's a little video explaining REALLY poorly what happens when you change the value and the ECU is sending constant data..


Super neat I think!

Anyways. I got this new little OLED screen and have started putting parameters to be displayed on it. It's not pretty, but it'll be functional. It uses SPI communication and is a pretty generic screen. I'm excited to work with it.






I have a few different plans, and can always update software. Super excited to have gained more motivation on this with some progress!




I also ordered some K line transceivers that should allow me to clean up the transistor mess I've got going on. They also allow for you to set the logic level desired (in this case 5v), so if I decide to move to a 3.3V controller (that runs at 84MHz instead of this wimpy 16MHz) that I've got my eyes on, all it takes is a one line change and it'll port over flawlessly. Not sure when those will be in, but I will more towards using those and possible making a small PCB for everything to go on.

That's all I got for now!
 
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