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Registered
1998 2.5 RS
Joined
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79 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Yes I searched for this similar issue

I own a '98 RS as of recent and I was wanting to address some leaky spots. One of which is a cam seal, so I took off the front of the motor and the timing belt to see how hard it would be to get to the seal.

After I was finished checking it out, I put the belt back on after fighting with it for a significant amount of time (DOHC Subaru motor has been the most difficult for me) and after triple checking all of the timing marks and turning it over by hand, it makes the noise as if the timing was completely 180o. You know the sound, no rhythmic pumping of cylinders, and all you can hear is a free-spinning starter motor.

I took it back apart, double checked everything, put it back together, still nothing.

I used these photos as reference http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...ohc-cam-timing-mark-question-dohc-t-marks.gif

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...timing-belt-question-subaru-timing-belt-1.jpg

The timing marks were all where they should have been and the arrow on the crank (as deceiving as is was) is aimed in the 3 o clock position. Me needs help.
 

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Registered
99RS 207 V9 AW
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1,285 Posts
Do not use arrow marks, use alignment/notch marks to line up with notch mark on timing cover. On the crank, use the dot at 12 o'clock.
 

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Registered
1998 2.5 RS
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79 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
They are all lined up using the notches and timing covers. On the crank i used the timing dot, and when its at 12, the arrow is at 3
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
when you did and redid all of this..did you take the tensioner out and compress the little piston on it? and put something through it to allow you to put the belt back on? did you possibly not take the hold pin out of the tensioner?
 

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Registered
1998 2.5 RS
Joined
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79 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I put an Allen key through it and removed it every time.

I also pulled #1 spark plug to verify TDC, reset timing, still the same thing
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
very odd. if you set the timing to those tick marks and it's spot on..it is correct. you should have zero issues.
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
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27,848 Posts
read back through your original post..can you elaborate on the " On the crank i used the timing dot," part? there shouldn't be a dot. it should be a tick mark/dash on one of the little fingers.

circled in red.

 

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Registered
Black 2001 RS
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787 Posts
Could the woodruff key in the crank be missing/sheared? Are you sure that you didn't bend many valves? If everything is spinning in unison, try a compression test.
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
well then. you've got me. you should be golden. it you can, pics would help me/us see what going on.
 

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Registered
1998 2.5 RS
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79 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
the woodruf key is there and intact. I just performed a compression testt on cyl #1 and yielded 0 PSI
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
that could be an issue....if it's not timed correctly and the cams are off..it can throw off the test.
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,848 Posts
you're off a tooth the whole way around. and probably more on the drivers head as is moves more when installing the belt.
 

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Registered
1998 2.5 RS
Joined
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79 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
alright, I'll try to reset it again. Would that 1 tooth be cause to zero compression in every cylinder?
 

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Registered
1998 2.5 RS
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79 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I reset the belt to where the lines on the belt lined up on every notch of the pulleys. Still nothing. I am going to upload a video of what it does
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
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27,848 Posts
the big thing is making sure the notches on the pulley line up with the notches on the covers, and the double lines line up perfectly between the intake and exhaust cams.

when the pass side head is lined up correctly, the valves are close, as there is no pressure on them from the cams. when the driv side is lined up correctly, they are open, as there is tension on the valves.

mine did what yours is doing when it was off by one tooth. it has to be damn near perfect. from the pic, the crank was backwards one tooth. that line on the bottom of the crank position sensor needs to be directly in line with the one on the pulley.





in this one, the driv side cams aren't lined up. the two dashes have to run into each other, see how they're lined up to the outside of each of the pair?
 
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