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Premium Member
99 RS, 01 RS, 01 Forester S
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1,635 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stock vs. OBX trailing arms on a 99 RS

I know you like toes... :)

Tools

17mm wrench
17mm drive/air gun
12mm

Simple instructions

1. Get the car in the air, remove the rear wheels

2. With the 17mm air gun and 17mm wrench remove the bolt that connects the spindle to the trailing arm. These babies are tight, so I recommend an air gun.


3. Next remove the 12mm bolts that hold the ABS lines on. (there kind of hard to see in the picture, but there there.


4. Now remove the 3 17mm bolts that hold the trailing arm plate to the car. this will allow easier access to get to the other 17mm bolt holding the trailing arm to the bracket.


5. Remove the 17mm bolt from the bracket now and reverse for reinstall.

Putting the new ones on I found it easier to start back at the spindle and work my way back to the bracket, installing the abs lines last. Another note, these can be put on upside down (dont ask me how I know :loser: ). Make sure that the abs mounting bracket is pointing up (refer to spindle picture, the 12mm bolt should be up top), not down. I also adjusted these to length by comparing them to the stock ones I took off.

I bought these off Ebay for 120.00 shipped (listed for 2002 plus RS's). I have yet to drive on these, and to be honest, I just put tein coilovers on too. So I wont have a good idea on what these did or did not do.
 

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Premium Member
99 RS, 01 RS, 01 Forester S
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1,635 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The factory trailing arms flex quite a bit. I realized this while replacing my rear diff.

Besides stiffining up the rear its suppost to improve handling, giving the car a more connected feel.
 

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Registered
98rsti RallybluePearl
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3,370 Posts
link to where you bought them could be an easy find on ebay but helpful for those who don't search.... they look good though!
 

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Premium Member
98 RBP RS
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674 Posts
Nice write up. I'm looking for a set, but the STi and cusco options are more than double that price, and not adjustable

My stock ones also have a metal piece on the top that wraps around the ebrake cable. It looks like it keeps the cable from hitting the tire. Do these have anything like that?
 

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00 OBS Silverthorn Metallic
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4,184 Posts
jonGF8 said:
Has anyone had experience with these as well as the STI ones?
I have the STi pink ones. They are just stock arms painted pink with a pillowball bushing in the front. I found them used for cheap so I bought them. Definiately not worth the $300+ for a new set. Just buy the Group N bushings and upgrade. You will save a ton of money.
 

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97 OBS, 83 911, 13 Pilot
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996 Posts
little off subject but does anyone know where to get the obx lateral links that used to be for sale for the wrx?
 

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Premium Member
99 RS, 01 RS, 01 Forester S
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1,635 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
coger83 said:
My stock ones also have a metal piece on the top that wraps around the ebrake cable. Do these have anything like that?
The ebrake loop/bracket get moved over to the new set of trailing arms. Nothing else needed, no modding, everything is plug in play. This is assuming you know which side is up on the trailing arm :) . I figured that out the hard way for you.

If you look just below step three, you can barely make out the loop all the way to the right....just barely.
 

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00 OBS Silverthorn Metallic
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4,184 Posts
smitch said:
The factory trailing arms flex quite a bit. I realized this while replacing my rear diff.
Was it the arms that flexed or the super squishy stock bushings?
 

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Premium Member
99 RS, 01 RS, 01 Forester S
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1,635 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Probably a little of both. I dont know if I said or not, but I noticed it while changing out the rear diff. I had to remove the bolt that connects the ladder bars to the spindle. In doing so I had the breaker bar up against it.

I know I should of replaced that super squishy bushing too, maybe next time. I am doing rear crossmember bushings this week, sometimes refered to as diff bushings. Its suppost to stop some of the diff bang sound when shifting hard. Maybe I'll do a DIY for that too.
 

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Registered
00 OBS Silverthorn Metallic
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4,184 Posts
smitch said:
Probably a little of both. I dont know if I said or not, but I noticed it while changing out the rear diff. I had to remove the bolt that connects the ladder bars to the spindle. In doing so I had the breaker bar up against it.

I know I should of replaced that super squishy bushing too, maybe next time. I am doing rear crossmember bushings this week, sometimes refered to as diff bushings. Its suppost to stop some of the diff bang sound when shifting hard. Maybe I'll do a DIY for that too.
The rear diff bushings are one of my next projects. I have another subframe and k-brace just laying here. I also have metal subframe bushings as well. I just haven't found the time to drop my diff to do all of this.
 

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1998 BMW M3
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2,657 Posts
i have the cusco parts on my car. the OEM part does flex slightly, but its comfortable.

the cusco is also fully adjustible, and so stiff the frame mounts for it is the thing to flex now. car likes to get air over more stuff, but the heim joint is nice and feel of ground is improved at the cost of NVH.

for 120 shipped its unbeatable. ghettofabolous cheeep.
 

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Premium Member
98 RBP RS
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674 Posts
has anyone tried to replace the rear trailing arm bushing? i dont think i've seen that bushing for sale anywhere, and its probabily pressed into the rear hub, but would it be worth trying to change it as well?
 

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Premium Member
98 RBP RS
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674 Posts
I found the group n trailing link rear hub bushing on rallispec for $17.55 each (RST-2024)
Anyone tried these?
 
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