Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

1 - 20 of 118 Posts

·
Registered
1998 CW Integra Type R
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
the clusters if you look at them are the same, the plug locations are the same and they use the same style plugs. but if you take a closer look the wiring is totally different.

i bought the cluster from a vendor here(2k4 sti- good transaction btw) and when i went to test the cluster in my car i found that if i turned my signal on my fuel gauge would move, if i hit the high beam my right signal light would light up...etc..etc..

A brand new US harness from subaru is PN 81310fa000. u can buy them at subaruparts.com, they are like 80$(its not the already pinned harnes, u will have to repin it, but i figure ill list it incase anyone is scared to screw with the original one

edit:
The pin outs im going to list follow the order from the manual:

pin outs are:
a1 Blue w/ White
a2 Red
a3 Yellow
a4 LightGreen
a5 Red w/ White
a6 Black w/ White
a7 Black w/ Blue
a8 Green w/ White
a9 Blue w/ Red
a10 White
a11 Green w/ Black
a12 Black
a13 Purple


b1 Yellow w/ Black
b2 Green w/ White
b3 Black w/ Red
b4 Black
b5 -------
b6 Black w/ Green
b7 Green w/ Red
b8 Blue w/ Orange
b9 LightGreen w/ Black
b10 Green


c1 PEACH w/ White
c2 Brown w/ White
c3 Red w/ Black
c4 Yellow w/ Green
c5 LightGreen w/ Yellow
c6 Blue w/ Yellow
c7 Pink
c8 White w/ Black
c9 Yellow w/ Red
c10 Brown w/ Red
c11 ------
c12 White w/ Green
c13 Yellow w/ Green
(be really careful, pin B8 and C8 look alike(my eyes are shot too so maybe its just me)

as u will notice if u look at your stock harness every wire except for 3 have to be pulled..
to take apart the harness connectors all u have to do is slide the plastic tab forward(toward the pins) pic then u pull the tab thats on teh back end of the connector up(its weird, if u know how to take things apart this will be easy) pic after the 2 plastic parts are removed u will be ready to start pulling pins. to do this all u need is a paperclip pic u can see in the pin how the connectors look bare. next u take teh paperclip and u insert it into the back of the connector really bad pic(sorry) u stick the paperclip in the upper part of the connector by where the release tab is) it will just slide in and just give a quick little pull on the wire and it shoudl start to slide out, when it does, remove the paperclip and pull teh wire the rest of the way out. the harnesses will look like this when u are done:


only 3 pins will stay in. now all u have to do is start reinserting the pins. its not too hard just dont start going backwards or anything(keep the first image as a ref of how the pin count goes)
pic 2/3rds done
after all teh pins are put back in, reinsert the slider thingys, then put in the plastic pin "guard" and slide teh slider back to the pin guard thingy and your done..

when u are done the harness will look like this pic

any other random pics anyone would liek to view can be found here:
http://www.rs25.com/uploads/thumbnails.php?album=105 folder 2 has the newest pics
 

·
Premium Member
MY98 2.5RS Coupe Brilliant Red
Joined
·
880 Posts
Yeah, there are issues between the V4 and the USDM MY98. I was in the process of figuring it out on my own, but my life is getting hectic and I've put that way on the back burner. Finding a job is #1 priority right now.

If you could get me the info for the wiring of this, I would GREATLY appreciate it. And if there is anything I can do as compensation, I'll gladly do it as well. I have V4 that is collecting dust and a MY98 that would like the white faced gauges.

Did you get a conversion piece for the KMH --> MPH conversion?

AJ

Edit: Were the ground wires in the correct spots? I plugged mine in (thinking it would be PnP) and while things worked, they didn't work with the correct switches. But, since things worked, I figured the grounds were correct.
 

·
Premium Member
11, LGT & 08, STi
Joined
·
493 Posts
Thats cool John. I saw someone with a cluster from the UK that looked nice. It went upto 140mph :burnout: That would be cool in my car. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
I used the instructions YAZ provided and they worked great. I had a version 4 non-STi cluster so there were a couple of different pin-outs but overall everything was the same.

I need to find my notes that tell me which wires were different fro mthe STi to non-STi ver 4 clusters. As soon as I do, I'll post here.

Oh, and no.. neither the tach or speedo worked before the re-wiring.

Thanks,
-Mike.
 

·
Registered
1998 CW Integra Type R
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
i have an extra brand new harness sitting here(i bought it about 2 month ago), i can do the pin swap and sell it to you. when i do it i gotta have the cam ready to show how its done...
 

·
Registered
1998 CW Integra Type R
Joined
·
1,832 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
i just took some pics as i repinned the harness i had here, im going to test the harness in my car if it works ill sell the harness and post the full writeup tomorrow(hopefully by night)
 

·
ECS *****
500hp Unicorn #142
Joined
·
298 Posts
Yaz how much would you do the harness for ??? id like to do it myself.. but i just cant find the diagrams that i would need.. i attempted to do it by having both guage packs side by side and tracing the contacts on the back of the cluster one by one w/ a marker.. that ended in my wanting to smash stuff ... so i gave up and my v4 cluster also sits in my closet collecting dust! i just dont understand how i figured out a WRX swap and i cant do the cluster :)
 

·
Premium Member
MY98 2.5RS Coupe Brilliant Red
Joined
·
880 Posts
Found out something interesting tonight.

The V4 STi and non-STi have the same wiring. So Yaz's write-up is good for both models.

I did some investigating/wire tracing and put names/meanings behind the wires listed on the first page. I'll post that tomorrow after I get some sleep and now figure out why the speedo-converter is not working properly.

But the basics of it are;

1) wiring diagram works for both models
2) my car has a working speedo and tach again
3) I have a STi cluster inbound that I can set up for another MY98'er to put into their car, complete with reworked harness so it is completely plug-n-play. Details to follow.

AJ
 

·
ECS *****
500hp Unicorn #142
Joined
·
298 Posts
do you kno how to make it so that my speedo reads out normally instead of in kmh ? and my tripo isnt off.. ?? meaning like i can get it so that .1 is actually .1 of a mile
 

·
Premium Member
MY98 2.5RS Coupe Brilliant Red
Joined
·
880 Posts


You can purchase them from Innovative Automotive and wire it in.

I'm trouble shooting mine, as it's still reading KPH instead of MPH (on the KPH scale). That'll be tonight and figuring out why the new A/F ratio gauge isn't working right either.

I have to get some work done, uh, at work, and then I'll post up my findings about the wiring harness.

AJ
 

·
Premium Member
MY98 2.5RS Coupe Brilliant Red
Joined
·
880 Posts
Stock Harness: What each wire does in the wiring harness, and where it leads to on the stock cluster.

A1> WHT Vehicle speed sensor 2 (back of gauge assembly)
A2> GRN/BLK Vehicle speed signal wire, from tranny
A3> BLK Vehicle speed sensor 2 (back of gauge assembly)
A4> LTGRN/BLK Right turn indicator
A5> BLU/WHT Highbeam indicator
A6> RED Highbeam indicator
A7> -------
A8> RED/WHT CEL
A9> GRN/WHT Oil Pres Indicator (dumby light) and goes to oil pressure switch on front of engine
A10> GRN Tachometer
A11> LTGRN Parking brake indicator/brake fluid level indicator, heads to parking brake switch and brake fluid level switch
A12> BLK/WHT Batter charge indicator
A13> VIO illumination lamps


B1> YEL/BLK Clock
B2> BLK Ground
B3> BLK/GRN Left turn indicator
B4> --------
B5> BLK/BLU Seat belt warning indicator
B6> GRN/WHT Water temperature gauge (hot in ON and START)
B7> GRN/RED Airbag warning light
B8> BLU/RED Door warning indicator
B9> YEL door warning indicator --> interior lights
B10> BLU/ORG door warning indicator --> interior lights


C1> ORG/WHT illumination lamps
C2> BRN/WHT Fuel gauge --> to ECU
C3> YEL/GRN A/T temp warning light
C4> RED/BLK Low Fuel warning lamp
C5> YEL/RED FWD indicator (from Transmission control)
C6> LTGRN/YEL ABS indicator
C7> ??? info not available from Mitchel's
C8> ??? info not available from Mitchel's
C9> ??? info not available from Mitchel's
C10> BLK/RED Temp gauge ground
C11> WHT/GRN Temp gauge signal (from thermometer in top right of engine)
C12> --------
C13> YEL/GRN Clock (hot in ACC and ON)

JDM V4 Harness: This is what the connector leads to on the gauge cluster
A1> BlU/WHT high beam indicator
A2> RED high beam indicator
A3> YEL door open, interior lights
A4> LTGRN ! symbol for parking brake
A5> RED/WHT CEL (now in red)
A6> BLK/WHT battery symbol/light
A7> BLK/BLU seat belt symbol/light
A8> GRN/WHT oil drip symbol/light
A9> BLU/RED open door warning/light
A10> WHT vehicle speed sensor 2
A11> GRN/BLK vehicle speed signal wire
A12> BLK vehicle speed sensor 2
A13> VIO illumination


B1> YEL/BLK clock
B2> GRN/WHT temp gauge
B3> BLK/RED temp gauge
B4> BLK ground
B5> -------
B6> BLK/GRN left turn indicator
B7> GRN/RED airbag symbol/light
B8> BLU/ORG open door warning indicator/light
B9> LTGRN/BLK right turn indicator
B10> GRN tach signal


C1> ORG/WHT illumination
C2> BRN/WHT fuel gauge
C3> RED/BLK low fuel warning light
C4> YEL/GRN hot "thing" warning light
C5> LTGRN/YEL ABS indicator/light
C6> BLU/YEL snow flake "HOLD" warning/indicator
C7> PNK ???
C8> WHT/BLK small lightbulb housing, with no transparent indicator
C9> YEL/RED I/C Spray indicator light
C10> BRN/RED small lightbulb housing, with no transparent indicator
C11> ------ small lightbulb housing, with no transparent indicator
C12> WHT/GRN temp gauge
C13> YEL/GRN clock

I may try to change a few things around, and there are plenty of open slots to add my own features (have IC Spray come on when I'm spraying, create my own FWD indicator lamp, etc.)

I need to figure out where the BLU/YEL wire is coming from, as it is linked to the "* SNOW" warning light. Might be able to hook that into an outside temperatuer gauge and light up when it's below freezing.

Use this as a test to make sure you're wiring things up right. Just trace the copper route on the back of the gauge cluster and see where it ends up.

I couldn't have figured this all out without Yaz's first post on the issue. In hindsight, I probably could have done it, but I didn't have the time until recently. His work was a HUGE help in all this, and hopefully I can add to it.

AJ
 

·
ECS *****
500hp Unicorn #142
Joined
·
298 Posts
AJ - once you get your converter wired in, can you tell me where to wire it in exactly and ill get one too .. i dont want to mess w/ something like that not knowing where to wire it.. thanks..
 
1 - 20 of 118 Posts
Top