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· Registered
A GC, GF, and a '79 Brat
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DIY GC Brake Pad Replacement

Written By: Jester808 (Alexander)
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD​

Tools Needed:

Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Tire Iron or Breaker Bar and appropriate socket for tire removal
14mm wrench or 14mm socket and ratchet
Zip Ties or any medium sized wrench
Brake Pads
Multi-purpose grease or brake pad anti-squeek grease

Step 1:

Pop the hood and remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. This will relieve the pressure and prevent the Piston in the Caliper from moving when you slide the Caliper out.

Step 2:

Once you have everything ready to go you need to jack up the car. If it's been awhile since you removed the wheel, before you jack it up, break the lug nuts loose but do not remove them. Once they are loose, use the Floor Jack to jack up one side and support it on a Jack Stand. Go ahead and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and move them aside.
This is what you have:

Step 3:

Now you have to take your 14mm wrench or socket and remove the lower 14mm bolt holding the Caliper in place. For this I used a 14mm socket and ratchet because it offered more leverage when breaking it loose.

Here's what the bolt looks like when you take it all the way out. Note: keep the washer in place, you'll need it for installation:

Step 4:

The next step is to slide the Caliper out and up and support it either with Zip Ties or a medium sized wrench. I would recommend Zip Ties, but I only had a wrench lying around:

These are close up images of how I used a wrench, I slid it in the space between the Caliper and the Swivel Point:

Step 5:

With the Caliper supported, you now have to remove the pads themselves. The trick here is to slide them straight out so you don't end up removing or damaging the Retaining Clips. My '95 is a bit old, some of you may not have to worry so much:

This is what it looks like with the pads removed. Note that the Piston in the Caliper hasn't moved at all, this is why we relieved the pressure by removing the brake fluid reservoir cap in Step 1:

Step 6:

For Pad Installation you need a few things. One, the Pads. I bought OEM replacement pads from Autozone:

Two, you need either a Multi-Purpose Greaser, or Brake Pad Anti-Sqeek Grease, I just used Multi-Purpose Greaser, it works the same to prevent squeeking:

Now you have to properly grease the backside of the pads, the side that comes into contact with the Caliper and Piston, do not grease the side that makes contact with the Rotor:

Step 7:

Install the Brake Pads the same way you removed them. However, for the backside pad, I found it slightly easier to snap it into the bottom Retaining Clip and then sliding in the top. This part takes a bit of jimmy-ing but they will eventually slide right into place against the Rotor:

Step 8:

Now you have to slide the Caliper back down and slide the 14mm bolt back into place and tighten it down. For this, it's easy if you slide the Caliper down and apply pressure to the bolt while sliding the Caliper back and forth until you find the thread. Screw in, tighten down:

Step 9:

Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts. Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts all the way now, Torque them to 65 ft.lbs.
Now go ahead and put the brake fluid reservoir cap back on:

This is VERY important. You have to pump your brakes to initate pressure back into the system. When you first do it, you'll start to feel pressure back into the pedal. Do not drive the car until you do this parked.

That's pretty much it. If you want you can drive the car around, warm up the brakes, and check your brake fluid level. Other than that, you're done. This job takes about 15 minutes per side if you take your time.

Thanks for reading.

From DumbUglyDragon:
Good time to lube the sliding pin/bolts also.
Good call it should actually be - 65 ft/lbs ~ 90Nm

· Registered
17,115 Posts
There's one bolt on the back of the caliper holding the brake line to the caliper. Remove that, and of course the other two bolts mentioned in this DIY and it'll come off. If you MUST remove the caliper for whatever reason, you're going to have to bleed the brake system.

· Not a premium member
2002 Aspen White WRX
4,944 Posts
Hey, OP. A good thing to add to the DIY. If you can't get your lug nuts loose, spray some penetrating oil over the lugs and wipe it off everything else that it comes in contact with. It'll take quite a bit of spray to affect the rust. Then take a 2x4 and place it on the inside of the wheel and hit the 2x4 with a hammer.
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