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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DIY SOHC CAMSHAFT INSTALL 00-01

Cobb Tuning said:
Congratulations on your purchase of your camshafts. The following instrutions should assist you through your installation process. Please read them first before beginning the install. If you feel that you can not properly perform this installation, I HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic. Also, make sure all components are clear of manufacturing residue and packing materials before installation



Removal of the heads can be found here, or you can do them in your car.


http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78972


Parts List:

  • These Instrutions- Print them out, Carry your computer I don't care but have these with you during the install.
  • Delta Camshafts-
  • New Cam Seals- Part numbers will come tomorrow
  • Assembly Lube- I used Clevite but you should also be able to use any heavy weight gear oil.
  • OEM Subaru Permabond
  • 2 Gallons of Your Favorite Coolant- If your doing your HG at the same time
  • Oil Filter of Choice
  • Your favorite Oil- I tend to like the conventional Castrol GTX, as I don't think our engines require synthetic
  • Spark plugs x 4- W0133-1641791

These are the parts for the cams, but like me, if you removed the heads you minus aswell do the rest of the seals/ gaskets. Part numbers below were from my '01 yours may be different. They are as follows:


  • Head Gaskets- 11044AA633 X 2
  • Intake Gaskets- 14035AA383 x 2
  • Exhaust Manifold Gaskets- 44022AA020 x 2
  • Manifold to Converter Gasket- 44165FA000 x 1

If you have never replaced your valve cover gaskets you should consider doing them while you have everything apart because the parts are relatively inexpensive but, the work is rather labor intensive if you had to do it as a separate job.

Valve Cover Gaskets

  • 13294AA053 x 2
  • 13271AA071 x 10
  • 10966AA000 x 4

Tools Needed

Following stuff is required for the Cam install, more to pull the heads off but refer to the previosly mentioned thread for info on that.

  • 22mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, and 10mm Sockets
  • TORX PLUS Socket (Torx 45 is close)- Get more then one of these they will break...
  • 5mm and 2mm Hex Wrench
  • Breaker Bar
  • White Paint marker
  • Feeler Gauges (.007"-.009" and .040")
  • Torque Wrench

On with the DIY:

The parts so far:




I pulled the heads off the car and dissassembled: They were Hot tanked and ultra sonically cleaned.

The Result:





From here I we wanted to make sure that the valves are seating properly so:

- Turn the heads upside down and make them as level as possible. It just so happened that the cam boxes were the perfect size:



Next poor in a bit of gas into the combustion chamber. This will seep through any leaking valves, and will show you what needs to be replaced.



If you have any leaks you should be able to see it leaking down either the intake ports or exhaust ports, I happened to have a leak on the right side intake ports. You can see that here:




Shit!!! More parts to order, I ended up ordering all new Valve Seals and Valve keepers. Part #'s tomorrow when they come in.

  • Exhaust valve seals - $ 4.38 x 8
  • Intake valve seals - $ 4.95 x 8
  • Valve Keepers - $ .44 x 32

I began to remove the valves that were the problem. This isn't neccesary if you didn't have a leak before.

Remove the Valve Keepers


Followed by the Springs, and next pull the valves out the bottom.

Check for deposits on the heads, you may have to lap the valve seats. I know I will. This is sign of a poor air filter, Guess the K&N is in need of a change.



Removed:



Once the valves are removed, take a wire brush and gently go over the top of the valves, this should help remove any deposits that have built up over time.


And this is where I ended today, Updates tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Ok, So I'm finnally geting around to finishing this. Its been awhile but I had to get my car back on the road before I finish this.

From last time I ended, we had removed all of the valves. We used a lapping compound and relapped all the valve seats. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of this.

We reinstalled the valves along with their new seals. I didn't take the best pictures at this point, however you can see them here. There should be 8 exhaust and 8 intake total.


Install your new valve keepers there cheap and if your removing the springs you minus well replace them. Heres finishing up the last spring:



Finished installing all new valve keepers, and valve seals:


Remember the Clevite that I spoke about earlier. Make sure its the red kind its thick and isn't runny. Looks like this:



Use this at this point. Oil up the journals, thrust bearing and cams. Don't be afraid to use to much. It won't hurt anything.



Settin in the cam:



Moving on, You need to make sure you remove all of the older gasket material. Luckily we had a nice solvent parts cleaner to take care of all of the old permabond. You should be able to use a nice brush and some brake cleaner to get this out.

Cleanin her up:



Almost done:


Because we used a solvent bath, we needed to make sure we got all of this off. Rinse in in a hot water as this solvent could destroy your oil faster then you would like:



Now were ready to seal the cam cover. Stick with the OEM sealent. Its a special permabond and you can pick it up from your dealer.




Place it all around this cam plate, also make sure you catch these journals aswell.



Place the cam cover back on top of the head, its should seat up nicely agains the cam. It may need a little bit of a tap with a rubber mallet, but it shouldn't need an abnormal amount of pressure.

Done:



 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
After you have the cam plate on its time to tighten all of the bolts, here we are getting them all set in place.





Start by tightening K through P in alphabetical sequence to 13ft/lbs. These are your Torx Plus bits so make sure you have these. You don't want to strip them

Follow this by tighteninig the 5mm hex bolts c through j in alphabetical order to 7ft/lbs

Finally tightening A and B to 7ft/lbs.

Now the cam caps are installed

Place your rockers on:





And tighten these down to 18 ft/lbs in alphabetical sequence.

Finished


After this its time to put the new cam seals on. I'll start with the back. Lube up the cam cover, and place it at the rear of the head.



I found that a 36mm socket was a perfect fit



Place this over the seal and gently tap with your rubber mallet until it seats its self on the cam.

Time for the front seal.



Place this on the front of the motor similar to what you did with the rear and gently tap. I can't remember what socket you need to use but I believe it may be in the range of 28mm. I don't remeber though.

It should look like this when your done:



Now your finished the main part.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ok, so you think your done... Nope you need to relash the valves. I don't have great pictures of this but I tried.

I was told to put the completed heads on the motor, put the timing belt on and then lash the valves.

You should notice that there is excess play in between the rockers and the valves this is why you need to lash.

Remove the top 10mm nut:



And place you feller gauges between the rocker needle and the valve, shim up the rocker so that the feeler gauge is tight but still goes through. I also found it nicer to check to make sure the next size up didn't go through and the smaller one passed through easily. This made sure it was correctly gapped. You'll need to do this to each valve cyclinder at a time.

I went by what Delta had recommended for their 2000 grind

.006 Intake
.008 Exhaust

And it seemed to be fine, no tapping here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Guess this is done, if theres anything else that you think should be added let me know. Hopefully this will be a help to everyone who wants to put cams in their car.
 

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you should label the head gaskets for 2.5L and get the number for the 1.8L and 2.2L incase anyone with those engines want to do it
 

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Yes, thanks for starting this thread. I've had a set of 3 angle heads and hot cams from delta for a few months and this is what I needed. Especially the gaskets and stuff like that. Is it going to be good enough using stock HG's?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yes, thanks for starting this thread. I've had a set of 3 angle heads and hot cams from delta for a few months and this is what I needed. Especially the gaskets and stuff like that. Is it going to be good enough using stock HG's?
If you plan to pull the heads off, then yes you will need all of the gaskets above, if you are just replacing the cams, then you can follow the beginning of the instructions.
 

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yeah this should great. hopefully there will be enough pics to cover the details :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First part updated....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is that a specific tool to take off the valve keepers?
Yeah I'm sorry its a magnetic valve keeper remover, you should be able to pick one up from matco or mac.

This one just happens to be a Matco Part#: VT101
 

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Yeah I'm sorry its a magnetic valve keeper remover, you should be able to pick one up from matco or mac.

This one just happens to be a Matco Part#: VT101
i would suggest getting the valve spring compressor, that wraps around the head. this way you can compress the spring, take out the keepers.

and install is the same way.

looks like this

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I guess its a matter of decision, obviously with the keepers only costing 44 cents. I decided to replace them. No sense reusing them if everything else is going to be new. This could be up to the installer, but while your in there you minus well replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
We don't have shims in our heads.. Atleast not in the 00-01 Sohc motors. As far as what shims look like. Heres what a dissassembled '04 STI looks like, they have shims.



The shims are located under the valves.
 
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