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2015 Scion FRS series One
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159 Posts
Do It Yourself: Clutch Replacement. 1999 Subaru 2.5RS. 5-speed Manual Transmission.

Notes
This pictoral DIY covers complete dissassembly and reassembly over the entire job (no "repeat steps in reverse" finish).
Dissasembly is covered from Steps 1 to 27.
Reassembly is covered from Steps 28 to 52.
This task could take from 12 to 20 hours, depending on how particular you are with cleaning all your parts.
A helper is needed to work the floor jack to lower and raise the transmission while you steady it under the car.
It is helpfull to use the Electrical & Torque Checklists below during reassembly. Check each item off the list as it is completed.

Auto Parts
New Flywheel
New Clutch Disc
New Clutch Pressure Plate assembly
New Throw-out Bearing
NewPilot Bearing
New Clutch Fork Dust Boot (pt # 30542AA040)
New Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (Felpro)
Optional: Flywheel to crank bolts (pt # 800210660)

Fluids / Chemicals
(1) High-Temp (brake) Grease
(4 quarts) Transmission Gear Oil
(1 spray can) Engine Degreaser
WD-40

Service Tools
(1) 2-ton Floor Jack that can reach 19" high minimum
(4) Jack Stands that can reach to 18" minimum height
(1) Subaru scissor jack
(1) Portable Work Light
(3 foot) wood 2x4 (cut for engine support)
Oil drain pan

Hand Tools - Special
(1) Special clutch alignment tool (comes with clutch set usually)
(1) Torque wrench capable of 10 to 110 ft. lbs.
(1) long 1/2" drive breaker bar
(Use 6-point sockets to remove and reinstall all torque spec'd bolts)
(1) 3/16" to 7/32" round flat punch with 1 3/4" reach
(Sockets, Open Ends and Box Ends from 8mm to 17mm)
(1) 13/16" socket (transmission drain bolt)

CHECK LIST: Electrical Connectors encountered
(2) Catalytic converter plugs
(1) Neutral switch plug
(1) Back up switch plug
(1) Transmission Speed Sensor plug
(1) Transmission Ground terminal
(1) Starter + terminal
(1) Starter Solenoid plug
(1) Engine Ground terminal

CHECK LIST: Torque Specs encountered
Flywheel to crank (8 bolts) 53 ft. lbs.
Clutch Pressure Plate (6 bolts) 11.6 ft. lbs.
Transmission Bell Housing (6 bolts + 2 nuts) 36.9ft. lbs.
Clutch Slave Cylinder (2 bolts) 27.5 ft. lbs.
Trans Crossmember / front (2 bolts) 101 ft. lbs.
Trans Crossmamber / rear (4 bolts) 51 ft. lbs.
Pitching Stopper / front (1 bolt) 36.2 ft. lbs.
Pitching Stopper / rear (1 bolt) 42 ft. lbs.
Drive Shaft to rear diff. (4 bolts/nuts) 23.1 ft. lns.
Drive Shaft enter bracket (2 bolts) 38.3 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Manifold (6 nuts) 22.4 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Hangar bracket (1 bolt) 22.4 ft. lbs.
Mid Pipe Spring Joint (2 spring bolts) 13 ft. lbs.
Transmission Drain (1 mag bolt) 32.5 ft. lbs.

LETS GET STARTED.









































































































































































END of DIY
 

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Premium Member
'97 Impreza L
Joined
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2,537 Posts
Wow. Excellent write up. Very well detailed and documented.

I was thinking about doing one of these that were more graphic than the written ones, but I'm glad you were able to do it. Too bad I have the bad habit of pulling the engine and doing this.
 

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Registered
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12,196 Posts
Absolutely amazing! Very nice write-up.. one of the best I've seen. Thanks for taking the time out to put all this together. I'm sure a lot of people will put this to good use.

A big +1 for you!
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
Joined
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27,848 Posts
one thing that some of the older model L and brightons owners need to keep in mind, is that there are a few steps in there that are not the same. the main on i could see being the slave cylinder...as we don't have a wet clutch system. and there are only four bolts on the engine.

another thing to add, is that the support H brakcet doesn't need to come off unless you really really want to take it off. also helps to leave it on when sliding the trans out from under the car. also, if your exhaust system is all rusted and you don't want to risk breaking them, you can just undo the entire system and lay it on the ground, there's about 4 hangars, the one bolt on the trans and the header to engine bolts.
 

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Never-Ending Project
Type R Project
Joined
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511 Posts
Very well done DIY, thanks!

Depending on what other maintenance/repairs I'm doing determines if I pull the engine or the tranny for a clutch change, but this will definitely get used next time I pull the trans.

Ryan
 

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needs more cowbell
95L, 07 2.5i, R6
Joined
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9,297 Posts
Thanks for taking the time to make a comprehensive write up. Great pics and good suggestions.
One thing you may want to mention is when you're sliding the transmission back on to be sure the small metal shield on the bottom of the engine is slightly bent down so it doesn't prevent them from sliding together. This happened when a friend and I were putting mine back together. We were so puzzled because you can't really see that shield with the engine crossmember in the way. After pushing it down a little they just fell into eachother.
 

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Registered
Aspen White 2kRS and 05 STI
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175 Posts
I will be using this Friday for sure, as I have a new clutch coming Tuesday, and a vacation day planned. This should be a HUGE help.

Thanks again!
 

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I Miss My OBS..
07 Legacy Spec.b
Joined
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981 Posts
VERY VERY good write up. The level of detail in your explanation is spot on.

I will say though, I'll probably never go this route. Removing the engine seems "easier" to me, but I guess that's just a preference...

Again, excellent write up. I'm sure it will serve plenty of people well on here.
 
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