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Subaru Impreza EJ20 MT 4x4 98/99
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So I remove the TCM (my car doesn't have abs so it's fine) and the car actually runs better but there is a Check Engine light on now. I talked to the iWire guys and they send me a basic overview for swap AT/MT and one of the steps is to "Ground the manual identification pin at the ECU"

I can't find the correct ECU I/O diagram for my car and I'm scared to ground the wrong pin to the ECU and burst into flames lol, it will be pretty expensive to get a new one here.

This is my ECU from an EJ20 98/99 GC7, you guys have any idea where I can find the correct diagram or where should I ground it?

82370


82371
 

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Subaru Impreza EJ20 MT 4x4 98/99
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Update, I'm 95% certain that I've found the correct diagram...
It's for the "ECU Pinouts for the 1999 Impreza RS", apparently 2.2l even though mine is 2.0l it could share the same ECU... n25 is empty which it should be, what do you guys think?



82373
 

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2001 Impreza 2.5 RS Sedona Red
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IMPORTANT, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE ABILITY OR UNDERSTANDING TO REMOVE AN ENGINE AND A TRANSMISSION, YOU WILL NOT BE HELPED BY THIS INFORMATION, THIS INFORMATION REGARDS PROBLEMS THAT WILL BE ENCOUNTERED DURING AN AUTO TO MANUAL SWAP

THE FOLLOWING WILL/MAY BE LOST DURRING A CONVERSION

CRUISE CONTROL
ABS (believed to be solved by retaining the TCU and using a resistor to give the TCU the illusion of being in neutral, this doesnt solve cruise control) read more here Legacy Central -- Transmission Conversion and here '98 RS 4EAT to 2000 RS 5MT w/ LSD - NASIOC

CREDIT! I recieved a large amount of technical and mechanical help From SleepySubieSleepySubie on my project, All credit goes to him, I provided the garage and the budget for this learning experience. CREDIT!


This covers an RS Transmission swap, more specifically a 98 RS Auto to a 2000 RS Manual,

Step 1: Parts collection (the following is specific to my situation, specifics may vary without notice)

Manual Transmission (including mounts)
Matching Shifter Linkage (includes bushings/nuts bolts ect.)
Matching Shifter (Ensure that you have ALL bushings and screws)
Matching Flywheel and Clutch/Pressure Plate
Matching Clutch (master and slave) and Pedals NEED CONFIRMATION, on brake pedal engage switch
Matching Manual Starter
Manual Drive shaft
Manual Rear differential (be sure to match gear ratios, consider this a great time to upgrade to LSD)
Manual ECU Not Required but fuel maps are different between the two. (Same year/trim as your vehicle RS gets RS, L gets L, WRX gets WRX)
your model/trim shifter trim and shift knob (Auto shifter trim offers enough clearance for proper shifting with a short shifter without modification)

We used the 98 RS Automatic CV Axels for both front and rear, if you check with any retailer of rebuilt or oem replacement parts they tend to use the same part number for both auto and manual variants, which could show either that these parts are the same or that these retailers dont care, I'm going with the first as the 2000 rs axels appeared identical to the 98's (in the rear, the fronts had the ABS ring on the axel vs on the hub no spline additions or extras aside from that) they will how ever charge extra for one or the other left or right on the LSD rear axels, but we couldnt order either to be sure since none of the retailers had any in stock or capable of being ordered.

!!!! If you collect a transmission from a year/model that is not of your own, such as in my case where I purchased a 2000 RS transmission for my 98, you MAY need to keep your speed sensor as the connector varies.

Step 2. Mechanical break down (Simple as dirt because this is covered in other DIY's in the forum)

remove the engine, trans, drive shaft and rear differential.

you will have to remove the shifter trim and seperate the automatic shifter from its arbetrary linkage, there will be a few bolts most likely stuck to some degree which you will need to seperate from the transmission, if you wish to sell it, you're gonna want to leave that sucker in tact. now, what you do with the shifter itself is up to you! As long as you leave the little clips with wires leading away from the shifter alone you will be fine.

Continue to split the Transmission from the engine if you didnt durring your original removal process.

At this point you can check your speed sensor on your transmission, if the replacement transmission has the same sensor you can keep it, if not, simply remove the old one from your automatic and put it in the manual trans.

If your automatic transmission is 98 or older, and your replacement transmission is 99 or newer you will notice that the transmission has 6 bolt locations wile your motor has 4.

This will cause no eminent threat to your project! it will cost you another 10-15 dollars. We had to tap a new hole into the starter and purchase a larger bolt to bolt the second end of the starter down, this also requires you to expand the hole on the 2000 MT5 Starter. This secures your starter properly and taping the whole larger doesnt hinder your future USDM WRX swap.

Obviously you will need to remove the torque converter and flex plate from your engine. and proceed to replace it with your matching clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. You can now reattach your engine and transmission and put them back into the car. (If you haven't done this before, I suggest installing the starter after the engine/trans are securely in place, less to get caught on)

You will want to install the shifter linkage before you insert the drive shaft as its going to get in your way, kartboy bushings are great to do now rather than later. and since you're playing with it, go ahead and install the shifter. (leave the trim off till you're done)

Proceed to install the new rear differential and drive shaft, and reinsert the old axles (for the front, you may want to purchase new pins for the inner connection between the axles and transmission)

Step 3: Some assembly required

Now you're going to need to take apart the lower portion of your dash on the drivers side, and gain access to your ECU this will be under the passengers feet, covered by a metal kick plate.

Start by replacing the ECU (same years/trims will clip right in)

Next we will go over to the Pedal box

the pedals you should have purchased need to match your clutch cylinder, from my findings on the 98 (I haven't had the privilege to search other auto or mt5 vehicles other than my own and the donor car)

You will notice the TCU dangling there or bolted onto the Auto brake pedal, this has to be removed, but according to what I've read this controls your ABS system, removing it kills automatic ABS, one simple solution is to get a fully manual wiring harness, manual abs unit and controller. but that isn't so practical (unless you're doing a WRX swap in which case you really don't need to be reading this) regardless there is information about this problem at the top of the page to refer to, as information is found I'll add it to the DIY

IF I am assuming correctly, the manual brake pedal and auto brake pedal are the same, or I'm wrong and the 98 was wired for both pre and post brake pedal boxes either way you should get lucky and the connectors match or you have both in there, the clutch side on the other hand you wont be so lucky, you don't have a clutch switch. there are two options here. you will run a 12 gauge wire directly from the ignition to the starter (yes the starter on the transmission) OR you will run a wire from the ignition to the clip on the clutch pedal (standard spade connectors fit snugly) and run a corresponding one out, all depends on how much you trust yourself to start the car in neutral or with the clutch depressed.

Now for some more wire housekeeping, now if you return to your shifter area you will notice your funny little shifter wiring, ** due to me have lost the pictures I'll be blunt and explain till I get the visuals up** here you have 4 wires on one clip and two on the other, the 2 others light up an indicator to help you figure out what mode you are in, when its dark, its useless. the other 4 have a great purpose, 2 control a locking motor to keep you from exiting park wile the car is off and the other two dictate that it IS indeed in park, (this allows two things, ONE it allows you to take your key out, and two, it turns the fuel pump on, which is kinda important!), the simple mans way of doing it would simply be to take the two that activate the switch (easily known as the ones that DON'T go to the locking motor) and splice them together and retain the clip and plug it into the shifter harness and toss the shifter.

Finally we return to the engine bay, the following you will have to find wiring pin outs on your own, I will post the RS ones when I post the pictures

you will need the reverse lights, there is also the neutral position switch (I haven't looked it up but we believe its for cruise control which you cannot use any more), both send a signal, so one goes to ground one goes to the reverse light pin. best way to do this is to locate the Auto wires per those pins and splice them into the transmission sensor wires as you wouldn't want some one hitting you because your reverse lights weren't on. and that's it for wiring!

In a way you could almost say that you're done! BUT for obvious reason you will want to check and double check that all of your exterior lights are working as they should. Between now and when you turn the car on, please ensure you have emptied out and refilled both your differential and transmission with new fluid and unless you're crazy and lifted the engine with the radiator you're going to need to refill that as well.

And as per any DIY ESPECIALLY THIS KIND

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU BREAK/SHORT/DESTROY DURING THIS PROCESS, OR ANY FAILURE OF THE VEHICLE DURING NORMAL OPERATION, NOR AM I LIABLE FOR YOUR VEHICLE IF ANY BREAKING SYSTEM FAILS AND/OR CAUSES AN ACCIDENT WHICH LEADS TO YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY REFUSING TO PAY DUE TO UNANNOTATED MODIFICATION OF YOUR BREAKING SYSTEM

** I TYPED THIS ALL IN ONE SITTING I'M PROOFREADING IT AS WE SPEAK Images will be uploaded soon for now, here's a video of sleepysubie starting my car with no exhaust *

Impreza 2.5 RS No headers - YouTube
How do I hook up the speed sensor? We have everything else figured out except for that. If you could try and point me in the right direction that would be great.
 

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2001 Impreza 2.5 RS Sedona Red
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Hey, I have been doing a auto to manual swap on my 01 Impreza 2.5 RS and have all the wires put in properly, but when I turn the key nothing happens. My dash lights come on and everything but it won't even crank. I put a screw driver to the starter and it started spinning, but wasn't engaging to spin the engine. If anyone knows about this or can give me guidance as to what to do it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Im in middle of doing my swap on 98 impreza 2.2 L auto. Got a JDM legacy turbo 5 speed and matching 160 4:11LSD rear dif.
Rear dif is installed and first issue was my auto rear axles are not same as manual axles. Auto has smaller 22 spline compared to manual 25 spline shaft going into dif. Im doing a SpeedyEFI ecu so not gong to have any code issues but the elusive definitive answer and wiring of vss is still there. Best I can tell is to get a 2 wire manual vss for my year car and install on 5mt in place of its current 3wire vss and everything should work. Not sure if unplugging the tcu is going to hamper/cut signal or if I need to send vss signal straight to dash speedo as ecu is also being swapped with Speedyefi
 

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White Lwag
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Not much help on jdm 4:11 axles or speedyefi. My understanding on tcu is no abs no tcu, abs leave one plugged in. My car has no abs, so I removed it. I would assume yours doesn't either, but too many variables. If you find a def answer, it would be cool if you post your findings here to help others.
 

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1999 Impreza RS - WRB
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504 Posts
Im in middle of doing my swap on 98 impreza 2.2 L auto. Got a JDM legacy turbo 5 speed and matching 160 4:11LSD rear dif.
Rear dif is installed and first issue was my auto rear axles are not same as manual axles. Auto has smaller 22 spline compared to manual 25 spline shaft going into dif. Im doing a SpeedyEFI ecu so not gong to have any code issues but the elusive definitive answer and wiring of vss is still there. Best I can tell is to get a 2 wire manual vss for my year car and install on 5mt in place of its current 3wire vss and everything should work. Not sure if unplugging the tcu is going to hamper/cut signal or if I need to send vss signal straight to dash speedo as ecu is also being swapped with Speedyefi
You have 2 choices for your rear-end install:

You can buy the 25-spline rear axles OR you re-use your auto rear diff. If the JDM Legacy trans is indeed a 4.11 final drive, then your original rear diff will work (as 2.2 engines with auto transmissions also run a 4.11 Final).

If you modded your wire harness with the manual trans ID pin, then unplug your TCU. It's completely useless now.

Your VSS needs to match year and trans type. So whatever the VSS matches a MY98 Impreza with a manual trans is what you'll need. Since there was nothing specific in the SpeedyEFI install guide about the speed sensor signal, then it would just be how the OEM install of the VSS would be.
 

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2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5rs coupe
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35 Posts
What do you guys do with the automatic transmission after your remove it? In the middle of my swap now and trying to figure out where I can sell/scrap it to try and recoup some value.
 

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Hello, my ‘13 outback recently blew up its cvt, error codes read torque converter and control system failure. I have been looking for an excuse to swap a manual into the car. I am aware that it is far more worth it to sell the car and buy one that is manual. But I am still willing to commit to the pain staking process and ab 3 months to swap the transmission.

However I don’t think I can restore the Subie back to stock, I no longer have the original wheels and the lug pattern is now 5x 114.3, a rear mount spare, has a 3” lift kit that took 72hrs to put on, a train horn, PA system, roof rack, complete with 3kw of lights, subwoofer, aftermarket radio, sound deadening and heat insulation through out, extended rear (forged steel) rear control arms, chassis mount front bull bar, fron tow point (chasis mount shackle), and after market injectors, and spark plugs. All that i did in my driveway myself.

I have helped swap engines and transmissions on friends cars before. In order to manual swap I am planning on buying a manual transmission, clutch and flywheel, clutch lines and cylinder, manual brake pedal, manual clutch pedal, manual ecu, all manual interior pieces, manual transmission wiring harness and control module, manual cv axels, manual ecu, manual rear diff, manual drive shaft, manual transmission mounts, and all the odds and ends I would need to complete the process.

I do have enough tools to do this. Do you guys have any tips for me to complete the process, and does anyone know if a Subaru dealership can tune/program my ecu correctly if it’s not oem? Because I am most definitely not capable to tune an ecu to run properly.

Similarly am I missing anything for the swap?
 

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2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5rs coupe
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Hello, my ‘13 outback recently blew up its cvt, error codes read torque converter and control system failure. I have been looking for an excuse to swap a manual into the car. I am aware that it is far more worth it to sell the car and buy one that is manual. But I am still willing to commit to the pain staking process and ab 3 months to swap the transmission.

However I don’t think I can restore the Subie back to stock, I no longer have the original wheels and the lug pattern is now 5x 114.3, a rear mount spare, has a 3” lift kit that took 72hrs to put on, a train horn, PA system, roof rack, complete with 3kw of lights, subwoofer, aftermarket radio, sound deadening and heat insulation through out, extended rear (forged steel) rear control arms, chassis mount front bull bar, fron tow point (chasis mount shackle), and after market injectors, and spark plugs. All that i did in my driveway myself.

I have helped swap engines and transmissions on friends cars before. In order to manual swap I am planning on buying a manual transmission, clutch and flywheel, clutch lines and cylinder, manual brake pedal, manual clutch pedal, manual ecu, all manual interior pieces, manual transmission wiring harness and control module, manual cv axels, manual ecu, manual rear diff, manual drive shaft, manual transmission mounts, and all the odds and ends I would need to complete the process.

I do have enough tools to do this. Do you guys have any tips for me to complete the process, and does anyone know if a Subaru dealership can tune/program my ecu correctly if it’s not oem? Because I am most definitely not capable to tune an ecu to run properly.

Similarly am I missing anything for the swap?
Hey I am in the middle of swapping my 2.5rs from auto to manual. I think the original post on this thread has all the essentials that you need for the swap. I am also replacing my wire harness and ECU with the 2.5rs manual harness and ECU. I don't know that you would need to tune/program the ecu if you are going to use a manual ecu. I made sure that I got a transmission with matching gear ratios to the 2.5rs manual transmission (not sure if this really makes a difference). I also found that I needed to get an accessory power relay unit that the automatic cars don't have. I followed some youtube videos by dirt cheap daily on youtube to do the swap and then watched iwires video to remove my wire harness.
 

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Hello, my ‘13 outback recently blew up its cvt, error codes read torque converter and control system failure. I have been looking for an excuse to swap a manual into the car. I am aware that it is far more worth it to sell the car and buy one that is manual. But I am still willing to commit to the pain staking process and ab 3 months to swap the transmission.

However I don’t think I can restore the Subie back to stock, I no longer have the original wheels and the lug pattern is now 5x 114.3, a rear mount spare, has a 3” lift kit that took 72hrs to put on, a train horn, PA system, roof rack, complete with 3kw of lights, subwoofer, aftermarket radio, sound deadening and heat insulation through out, extended rear (forged steel) rear control arms, chassis mount front bull bar, fron tow point (chasis mount shackle), and after market injectors, and spark plugs. All that i did in my driveway myself.

I have helped swap engines and transmissions on friends cars before. In order to manual swap I am planning on buying a manual transmission, clutch and flywheel, clutch lines and cylinder, manual brake pedal, manual clutch pedal, manual ecu, all manual interior pieces, manual transmission wiring harness and control module, manual cv axels, manual ecu, manual rear diff, manual drive shaft, manual transmission mounts, and all the odds and ends I would need to complete the process.

I do have enough tools to do this. Do you guys have any tips for me to complete the process, and does anyone know if a Subaru dealership can tune/program my ecu correctly if it’s not oem? Because I am most definitely not capable to tune an ecu to run properly.

Similarly am I missing anything for the swap?
well, I think the problem you will face is check engine lights and poor operation in general. First and foremost, the 2013 outback didn't (to my knowledge) come in a manual option. This thread is about swapping factory equipment for other factory equipment. second, the newer cars rely on the computers do be more involved in vehicle operation (things like throttle control). when you start trying to modify and manipulate the computers they will very likely do strange things or throw codes. I swapped my 95 4EAT to 5MT and after 30 minutes at a steady speed, the car wouldn't revv over 1500 RPM. turns out since i wired up the speedo sensor directly to the gauge cluster and the computer was programmed that if it didn't see vehicle speed, that it would go into limp mode. That was on a car built 27 years ago. now the hardware and software is much more sophisticated. I would advise against a 5 speed conversion on that vehicle in the STRONGEST POSSIBLE TERMS.
 

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Hey I am in the middle of swapping my 2.5rs from auto to manual. I think the original post on this thread has all the essentials that you need for the swap. I am also replacing my wire harness and ECU with the 2.5rs manual harness and ECU. I don't know that you would need to tune/program the ecu if you are going to use a manual ecu. I made sure that I got a transmission with matching gear ratios to the 2.5rs manual transmission (not sure if this really makes a difference). I also found that I needed to get an accessory power relay unit that the automatic cars don't have. I followed some youtube videos by dirt cheap daily on youtube to do the swap and then watched iwires video to remove my wire harness.
I don't know about the tuning, but unless the engine is modified (like a turbo) i wouldn't worry too much about it. and as far as the gear ratios go, if you are referring to the final drive ratio, it is important to match the front and rear diff. ratios.
 

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IMPORTANT, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE ABILITY OR UNDERSTANDING TO REMOVE AN ENGINE AND A TRANSMISSION, YOU WILL NOT BE HELPED BY THIS INFORMATION, THIS INFORMATION REGARDS PROBLEMS THAT WILL BE ENCOUNTERED DURING AN AUTO TO MANUAL SWAP

THE FOLLOWING WILL/MAY BE LOST DURRING A CONVERSION

CRUISE CONTROL
ABS (believed to be solved by retaining the TCU and using a resistor to give the TCU the illusion of being in neutral, this doesnt solve cruise control) read more here Legacy Central -- Transmission Conversion and here '98 RS 4EAT to 2000 RS 5MT w/ LSD - NASIOC

CREDIT! I recieved a large amount of technical and mechanical help From SleepySubieSleepySubie on my project, All credit goes to him, I provided the garage and the budget for this learning experience. CREDIT!


This covers an RS Transmission swap, more specifically a 98 RS Auto to a 2000 RS Manual,

Step 1: Parts collection (the following is specific to my situation, specifics may vary without notice)

Manual Transmission (including mounts)
Matching Shifter Linkage (includes bushings/nuts bolts ect.)
Matching Shifter (Ensure that you have ALL bushings and screws)
Matching Flywheel and Clutch/Pressure Plate
Matching Clutch (master and slave) and Pedals NEED CONFIRMATION, on brake pedal engage switch
Matching Manual Starter
Manual Drive shaft
Manual Rear differential (be sure to match gear ratios, consider this a great time to upgrade to LSD)
Manual ECU Not Required but fuel maps are different between the two. (Same year/trim as your vehicle RS gets RS, L gets L, WRX gets WRX)
your model/trim shifter trim and shift knob (Auto shifter trim offers enough clearance for proper shifting with a short shifter without modification)

We used the 98 RS Automatic CV Axels for both front and rear, if you check with any retailer of rebuilt or oem replacement parts they tend to use the same part number for both auto and manual variants, which could show either that these parts are the same or that these retailers dont care, I'm going with the first as the 2000 rs axels appeared identical to the 98's (in the rear, the fronts had the ABS ring on the axel vs on the hub no spline additions or extras aside from that) they will how ever charge extra for one or the other left or right on the LSD rear axels, but we couldnt order either to be sure since none of the retailers had any in stock or capable of being ordered.

!!!! If you collect a transmission from a year/model that is not of your own, such as in my case where I purchased a 2000 RS transmission for my 98, you MAY need to keep your speed sensor as the connector varies.

Step 2. Mechanical break down (Simple as dirt because this is covered in other DIY's in the forum)

remove the engine, trans, drive shaft and rear differential.

you will have to remove the shifter trim and seperate the automatic shifter from its arbetrary linkage, there will be a few bolts most likely stuck to some degree which you will need to seperate from the transmission, if you wish to sell it, you're gonna want to leave that sucker in tact. now, what you do with the shifter itself is up to you! As long as you leave the little clips with wires leading away from the shifter alone you will be fine.

Continue to split the Transmission from the engine if you didnt durring your original removal process.

At this point you can check your speed sensor on your transmission, if the replacement transmission has the same sensor you can keep it, if not, simply remove the old one from your automatic and put it in the manual trans.

If your automatic transmission is 98 or older, and your replacement transmission is 99 or newer you will notice that the transmission has 6 bolt locations wile your motor has 4.

This will cause no eminent threat to your project! it will cost you another 10-15 dollars. We had to tap a new hole into the starter and purchase a larger bolt to bolt the second end of the starter down, this also requires you to expand the hole on the 2000 MT5 Starter. This secures your starter properly and taping the whole larger doesnt hinder your future USDM WRX swap.

Obviously you will need to remove the torque converter and flex plate from your engine. and proceed to replace it with your matching clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. You can now reattach your engine and transmission and put them back into the car. (If you haven't done this before, I suggest installing the starter after the engine/trans are securely in place, less to get caught on)

You will want to install the shifter linkage before you insert the drive shaft as its going to get in your way, kartboy bushings are great to do now rather than later. and since you're playing with it, go ahead and install the shifter. (leave the trim off till you're done)

Proceed to install the new rear differential and drive shaft, and reinsert the old axles (for the front, you may want to purchase new pins for the inner connection between the axles and transmission)

Step 3: Some assembly required

Now you're going to need to take apart the lower portion of your dash on the drivers side, and gain access to your ECU this will be under the passengers feet, covered by a metal kick plate.

Start by replacing the ECU (same years/trims will clip right in)

Next we will go over to the Pedal box

the pedals you should have purchased need to match your clutch cylinder, from my findings on the 98 (I haven't had the privilege to search other auto or mt5 vehicles other than my own and the donor car)

You will notice the TCU dangling there or bolted onto the Auto brake pedal, this has to be removed, but according to what I've read this controls your ABS system, removing it kills automatic ABS, one simple solution is to get a fully manual wiring harness, manual abs unit and controller. but that isn't so practical (unless you're doing a WRX swap in which case you really don't need to be reading this) regardless there is information about this problem at the top of the page to refer to, as information is found I'll add it to the DIY

IF I am assuming correctly, the manual brake pedal and auto brake pedal are the same, or I'm wrong and the 98 was wired for both pre and post brake pedal boxes either way you should get lucky and the connectors match or you have both in there, the clutch side on the other hand you wont be so lucky, you don't have a clutch switch. there are two options here. you will run a 12 gauge wire directly from the ignition to the starter (yes the starter on the transmission) OR you will run a wire from the ignition to the clip on the clutch pedal (standard spade connectors fit snugly) and run a corresponding one out, all depends on how much you trust yourself to start the car in neutral or with the clutch depressed.

Now for some more wire housekeeping, now if you return to your shifter area you will notice your funny little shifter wiring, ** due to me have lost the pictures I'll be blunt and explain till I get the visuals up** here you have 4 wires on one clip and two on the other, the 2 others light up an indicator to help you figure out what mode you are in, when its dark, its useless. the other 4 have a great purpose, 2 control a locking motor to keep you from exiting park wile the car is off and the other two dictate that it IS indeed in park, (this allows two things, ONE it allows you to take your key out, and two, it turns the fuel pump on, which is kinda important!), the simple mans way of doing it would simply be to take the two that activate the switch (easily known as the ones that DON'T go to the locking motor) and splice them together and retain the clip and plug it into the shifter harness and toss the shifter.

Finally we return to the engine bay, the following you will have to find wiring pin outs on your own, I will post the RS ones when I post the pictures

you will need the reverse lights, there is also the neutral position switch (I haven't looked it up but we believe its for cruise control which you cannot use any more), both send a signal, so one goes to ground one goes to the reverse light pin. best way to do this is to locate the Auto wires per those pins and splice them into the transmission sensor wires as you wouldn't want some one hitting you because your reverse lights weren't on. and that's it for wiring!

In a way you could almost say that you're done! BUT for obvious reason you will want to check and double check that all of your exterior lights are working as they should. Between now and when you turn the car on, please ensure you have emptied out and refilled both your differential and transmission with new fluid and unless you're crazy and lifted the engine with the radiator you're going to need to refill that as well.

And as per any DIY ESPECIALLY THIS KIND

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU BREAK/SHORT/DESTROY DURING THIS PROCESS, OR ANY FAILURE OF THE VEHICLE DURING NORMAL OPERATION, NOR AM I LIABLE FOR YOUR VEHICLE IF ANY BREAKING SYSTEM FAILS AND/OR CAUSES AN ACCIDENT WHICH LEADS TO YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY REFUSING TO PAY DUE TO UNANNOTATED MODIFICATION OF YOUR BREAKING SYSTEM

** I TYPED THIS ALL IN ONE SITTING I'M PROOFREADING IT AS WE SPEAK Images will be uploaded soon for now, here's a video of sleepysubie starting my car with no exhaust *

Impreza 2.5 RS No headers - YouTube
So i followed this rigourously other than the axles on my 2001 subaru Impreza outback sport phase 2 ej22 (ej222) and we couldnt get a start out of it mind you i was trying to use a 1997 gf8 manual ecu at first, i realized to use the manual ecu id need the motor portion of the wiring harness to allow it to start. So for anyone with a 99-01 this is for you!! Everything is virtually right buuut if your using a 3.90 trans and rear diff use the 93-01 3.90 axles for a 3.90 diff or a 02-05 wrx axles. Now for wiring to actually get it to start properly, you'll need to keep your auto ecu, park neutral safety switch off the auto trans and the wiring and plug (plug the clip in jam a nail through the hole at the top of the lever when you find neutral on the switch to allow the car to start with auto ecu) the auto brake switch needs to come over to the manual pedal (do it before your hanging upside down trying to do it, will save you some time) there is already a plug in the harness under the dash for a clutch switch (mind you we used a clutch pedal out of a 97 and the 01 had the male end to plug in so lucked out i dont know if all ej22s are similiar in that area) and youll need to ground the park signal to the old auto shifter to make the car think its in park to be able to pull the key. Other than those things the write up is perfect! Definitely pay attention to your model of ej22 vs what ecu you buy for the swap i feel if i bought a ej222 manual ecu from an 00-01 it may have been a lot easier.
 
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