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I really hope someone checks this thread and can help.

Did I not do something correctly? I don't understand why I would have no code for 60 miles then the code shows up. I have no idle issues or anything out of the normal at all.


Thanks in advance. (A couple pictures would be VERY helpful)
Due to Emission Regulations, Subarus and other auto companies have what is known as "readiness" or Readiness codes. Once the battery is unhooked or ECU cleared of any codes it takes approx. 50 miles of regular driving for the ECU to read everything and make sure everything is in check. Hence why in OBDII states, If you have your car inspected at a dealership and Worked on. They will drive it or have the customer drive it around then come back and then they can proceed with the OBDII inspection.
 

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1996 Impreza LX
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24 Posts
Due to Emission Regulations, Subarus and other auto companies have what is known as "readiness" or Readiness codes. Once the battery is unhooked or ECU cleared of any codes it takes approx. 50 miles of regular driving for the ECU to read everything and make sure everything is in check. Hence why in OBDII states, If you have your car inspected at a dealership and Worked on. They will drive it or have the customer drive it around then come back and then they can proceed with the OBDII inspection.
^This I understand, except it's partially wrong. There is no magic mileage, but there are parameters that have to be met. For Subaru (maybe not all but this specific model) it's the following:
1) Cold Start then idle 2 minutes.
2) Cruise for 3minutes 20 seconds at 40-50mph then engine brake to 20mph or less. You can't use the brake during this process nor can you go under 40 or above 50.
3) Cruise for 3minutes 15seconds at 50-60mph then engine brake down to 20mph or less. Again, no braking and it must stay within the 50-60 range.

Also, if the motor exceeds 3,000 rpm it will cancel the ready check.

So in reality I can set every check/ready monitor in about 10-12 miles.

Specifically my issue is beyond those ready monitors. If I was lucky enough I could reset the ECU then do the 3 things above and go directly to emissions and pass. However, I found my actual problem to not be related to the Auto-Manual swap instead it was the 2.2L being put into the 1.8L car. I have to swap the TB from a 1.8 to the motor (2.2L) as the IACV is located on the TB and not on the manifold.

It's suprisingly hard to find a 1.8 complete TB, most likely because everyone needs them to swap a 2.2 or 2.5 into their brighton. Or I suppose rewire the entire car.
 

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98 2.5RS Acadia Green
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587 Posts
I'd like to add that some people may need a couple extra things for this swap...

My swap (98 4EAT->98 5MT) required me to get a shorter bolt that goes through my starter that mates the engine and tranny. The 4EAT bellhousing is a good inch thicker than the 5MT and the stock bolt was WAY too long.

You'll also need 8 flywheel bolts from Subaru (part number 800210660), the ones from your flex plate won't be long enough.
 

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1998 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS RBP
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58 Posts
Did the swap and been driving it for at least 6 months. Finally re pinned the ecu to think its a mt. A day or so later got p1507. NSS is good reverse lights work and it's no longer looking for the AT. That code is often related to the neutral Switch that comes from the trans to a brown plug with two wires(not neutral safety switch at pedals). Upon inspection that plug wasn't going anywhere. Where does it connect or splice into? If I were to wire it in with one wire to positive and the other to negative would that suffice or is 12v constant not good or does it need to be tapped into ecu along the way? Any help is much appreciated!
 

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01 Impreza 2.5RS
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Did the swap and been driving it for at least 6 months. Finally re pinned the ecu to think its a mt. A day or so later got p1507. NSS is good reverse lights work and it's no longer looking for the AT. That code is often related to the neutral Switch that comes from the trans to a brown plug with two wires(not neutral safety switch at pedals). Upon inspection that plug wasn't going anywhere. Where does it connect or splice into? If I were to wire it in with one wire to positive and the other to negative would that suffice or is 12v constant not good or does it need to be tapped into ecu along the way? Any help is much appreciated!
It goes to the grey 12 pin automatic plug. If you look at a diagram for your car well atleast my car it went to that plug and I'm sure it's the same. It goes in the last two terminals I believe 11 and 12. What I did was I had left over ends from a plug and made one to fit the brown one. I didn't want to cut it I don't know why. And then just connected those two to terminal 11 and 12 on the grey transmission plug. I think 9 and 10 are for reverse lights.
 

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Hello I am sorry if this has been covered in the forum already but I just swapped an AT for a 2000 MT in my 98 rs. I grounded pin 81 on the ecu to let the ecu know that it's a mt and crossed the wires on the transmission plugs (necessary to start) but I left the tcu intact. I was wondering if this causes any problems because my abs works and everything feels fine. I have not checked the mileage but it appears normal. I do have the CE light on but I think that might have been turned on before I grounded pin81.


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99 OBS
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442 Posts
Hey I just finished this swap with keeping the module off the automatic transmission kept in the neutral position and spliced the blue and black wire at the auto shifter so the key comes out. I'm not super great with wiring and pinouts but I'm trying to get the reverse lights on. Anyone can snap a picture what plugs I need to splice together?
 

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any direction would be helpuf

I was wondering if there was anyone that could point me or talk to following these instructions to do this same swap on a 2005 WRX. I got the entire package for a cant walk away price, the mechanical is easy, but I am curious how to best move forward with my swap project.
thanks in advance
 

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2005 forester
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294 Posts
Hey I just finished this swap with keeping the module off the automatic transmission kept in the neutral position and spliced the blue and black wire at the auto shifter so the key comes out. I'm not super great with wiring and pinouts but I'm trying to get the reverse lights on. Anyone can snap a picture what plugs I need to splice together?
actually pictures for all necessary wiring would be great. i know some may find it easy but it would make this DIY that much easier if people could see what plugs they should be looking, what to do with them and where to splice in wires and also the ecu pin. i haven't started yet but if no one else does i'll snap pics and post them as soon as i get all the parts i need.

oh yea. will i have any issue using the auto trans vss in the manual trans?
 

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1999 Impreza RS - WRB
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479 Posts
actually pictures for all necessary wiring would be great. i know some may find it easy but it would make this DIY that much easier if people could see what plugs they should be looking, what to do with them and where to splice in wires and also the ecu pin. i haven't started yet but if no one else does i'll snap pics and post them as soon as i get all the parts i need.

oh yea. will i have any issue using the auto trans vss in the manual trans?
The mechanical VSS is a different length between Auto and Manual, IIRC (been so long when I swapped it in a 97) - I believe the 4EAT vss is shorter than the 5MT one.
 

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2005 forester
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294 Posts
Started the swap Friday. Just have wiring lefts. Still have some questions after searching and reading.


1. In this picture, the connector near the auto shifter. Colors are red blue and two black wires. Which wires go with each other?

2. Can we utilize the nps from the 5speed trans and pins 11-12 on the 12 pin connector?
If not, what do we do with nps sensor from transmission?
 

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2005 forester
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294 Posts
Bump.

Do pins 11 and 12 have to be permanently closed? I read it was needed to run the fuel pump but not sure if connecting it to the nps off the manual trans will work.
 

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2005 forester
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294 Posts
so after more reading on the NPS switch off the 5speed, it seems that the way i thought it worked(closed contacts during neutral) is the total opposite of how it actually works(closed contact during all gears except neutral). Wiring in the NPS is unnecessary and does not need to be connected anywhere.

Also regarding the key lock, from the picture, i also connected the far right black wire to the blue wire.

i also thought these helped. Found on a 5speed swap issue thread


This is a picture of the inhibitor switch that comes from the 4eat. The inhibitor has an extension which plugs into a 12 pin connector off of the main harness.

Pins 11-12 are for the P/N. Connect these two wires to simulate park/neutral so you can start your car.

Pins 9-10 are for the reverse lights. If you want(and you should) to connect your reverse switch from your 5 speed trans, these are the two pins to connect them to.
 

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getting ready to do this

would it be easier to just swap out the bulk harness under the dash to avoid the wiring issues? I am trying to confirm or deny the idea that if I switch to a manual bulk harness that the issues spoken about in many other swap feeds with ABS, Cruise, speedo, and reverse lights be eliminated.
Was thinking that at that point the car would basically be as if it was a manual from a factory (remember basically).

I am planning on doing a 4aet swap in a 2005 Wagon using a 2007 5MT

Thanks in advance
 

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2005 forester
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would it be easier to just swap out the bulk harness under the dash to avoid the wiring issues? I am trying to confirm or deny the idea that if I switch to a manual bulk harness that the issues spoken about in many other swap feeds with ABS, Cruise, speedo, and reverse lights be eliminated.
Was thinking that at that point the car would basically be as if it was a manual from a factory (remember basically).

I am planning on doing a 4aet swap in a 2005 Wagon using a 2007 5MT

Thanks in advance

Easier? Idk about easier lol but when it comes down to full function IMO I think it would be better to have a straight plug and play and not have to worry about issues.

People have gotten their abs, speedo, and reverse to work just with simple wiring. Not sure about cruise control though

People skip the harness cause it's less work, cheaper, and easier.
 
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