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1995 WRX 2015 F150
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i have a 98RS with an auto to manual swap. i spliced in the neutral and reverse switches and the car starts fine. my problem is that i have a high idle. i tried searching this thread but only got back one post with a high idle and there wasnt anything helpful in it. has anyone else run in to this problem or does anyone have an idea of what it might be?

You need to ground the mt/at id pin on the ecu. I usually move the a/diagnosis pin that's not needed anymore over to the at/mt id location and ground it.
 

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98 2.5RS RBP
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170 Posts
You need to ground the mt/at id pin on the ecu. I usually move the a/diagnosis pin that's not needed anymore over to the at/mt id location and ground it.
i tried that i followed the diagram with the pin outs and when we grounded that pin it would have a dead miss. but my friend and i were thinking that b/c the 98 is different maybe the pin outs are different as well
 

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1995 WRX 2015 F150
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I have checked on there connector B84 pin82 when we grounded it and tried 2 start it we got the miss fire
No, depin the connector from B84 80 and cut the wire. Install it in the empty spot at B84 81 and ground the end you cut.

Remember when you are looking at the pinout diagram it's a view from the backside of the connector where the wires go in.
 

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98 2.5RS RBP
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No, depin the connector from B84 80 and cut the wire. Install it in the empty spot at B84 81 and ground the end you cut.

Remember when you are looking at the pinout diagram it's a view from the backside of the connector where the wires go in.
ooooo ok now i see.. yea for the fact there was no pin in it, it threw my friend and i off so we thought it was looking at it from the other end. so i dont need pin 80 i guess? now in grounding 81 i loose ABS right? or as long as the TCU is connected it doesnt matter?
 

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1995 WRX 2015 F150
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ooooo ok now i see.. yea for the fact there was no pin in it, it threw my friend and i off so we thought it was looking at it from the other end. so i dont need pin 80 i guess? now in grounding 81 i loose ABS right? or as long as the TCU is connected it doesnt matter?
No you don't need 80 anymore it's AT diagnosis.

It shouldn't affect the ABS. But I never really cared, the abs sucks on these cars anyway.
 

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98 2.5RS RBP
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i have searched for an answer but nothing has helped... i keep getting a p1722 code... on the ECU pin 81 is grounded and pin 80 is cut, the tcu is unplugged, i even went as far as unplugging the "dropping resistor".. and still after 2 key cycles it comes back up... could someone please help ??
 

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1995 WRX 2015 F150
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i have searched for an answer but nothing has helped... i keep getting a p1722 code... on the ECU pin 81 is grounded and pin 80 is cut, the tcu is unplugged, i even went as far as unplugging the "dropping resistor".. and still after 2 key cycles it comes back up... could someone please help ??

You probably got the wrong pin. The pinouts are looking at the back of the ecu plugs where the wires go in.
 

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98 2.5RS RBP
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i know the pinouts r looking from the back of the plug, 69subaru360 already told me that and i know its the right pin b/c once the pin was grounded my idle came right down
 

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2.2 97L & 02 wrx
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so everyone seems to do an older car to a new or wrx trans.

i have a 99 rs 4eat and i have the option of picking up either a 93 awd L or 96 awd L 5mt. aside from age/miles on either setup should i pick one over the other for ease of install? both are the 1.8 5mt and i assume from reading this they would both be the same difficulty to swap, correct? thanks for input
 

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1999 Impreza RS - WRB
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so everyone seems to do an older car to a new or wrx trans.

i have a 99 rs 4eat and i have the option of picking up either a 93 awd L or 96 awd L 5mt. aside from age/miles on either setup should i pick one over the other for ease of install? both are the 1.8 5mt and i assume from reading this they would both be the same difficulty to swap, correct? thanks for input
It doesn't really matter which one you pick. It will be the same regardless.

The big thing, however, is that you match the correct rear differential to the trans.

If you pick up the 93 L, you'll need a 4.11 rear diff. If you go with the 96 L, you'll have to get a 3.90 rear diff.
 

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It doesn't really matter which one you pick. It will be the same regardless.

The big thing, however, is that you match the correct rear differential to the trans.

If you pick up the 93 L, you'll need a 4.11 rear diff. If you go with the 96 L, you'll have to get a 3.90 rear diff.
There a preferance towards either diff? I'll be snagging the entire car in either case so ill haveall parts
 

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There a preferance towards either diff? I'll be snagging the entire car in either case so ill haveall parts
To my knowledge - the 4.11 will offer slightly quicker acceleration with a higher cruising RPM. The 3.90 will accelerate less quickly but will have a more optimal cruising RPM.

IIRC, the 4EAT RS is 4.44, and 5MT is 4.11. OBS is 3.90.

There is also a difference in the gearing of both transmissions. The 3.90 will have a more usable first and second gear while the 4.11 is meant to keep you in the power-band through all (except 5th) gears. For cruising, DD work, or anything non-competetive, the 3.90 will be a cheaper and potentially better choice. Your RPMs at cruising speed on the freeway will be less, and will save you a couple MPGs here and there.

-TC
 

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95 Impreza racecar
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818 Posts
So after reading through all of this I have a good understanding of the wiring that needs to be done, my only questions (forgive me if its stated elsewhere)

First, do I understand correctly that you cut the wire going to the mt/at id pin on the ecu and run the wire to a ground?

Secondly, if you splice the neutral switch wires at the under-hood plug (big gray one) so you still need to bridge the small black switch that's located on the side of the shifter?
 

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95 Impreza racecar
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Finished the mechanical part, I went to fire it up and the starter doesnt even turn over? 12V are getting to the starter, here are the splices I made:

Two wires going to the little black switch at the shifter spliced into eachother

mt/at id pin at the ecu, cut the wire and ran a wire from the ecu mt/at id pin to a bolt.

neutral switch wires spliced into eachother at the grey at plug under the hood
 

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95 Impreza racecar
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818 Posts
I just converted my FWD 4eat Impreza to AWD 5 speed, everything is done so I got in the car to start it, turned the key and nothing. I hooked it up to jumper cables, still nothing, starter doesnt even click.



I made the following splices:



Two black wires at black switch on AT shifter spliced to eachother



Both neutral switch wires from AT plug under the hood ran to opposite sides of the clutch switch



ground ecu pin for MT/AT id



thats it,got in the car turned the key and nothing, where/how should I test my issue? Also looking for a way to bypass the ignition so I can start my car temporarily
 
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