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The Silverback Mod
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For a situation with a lot of swirl marks/small scratches and some larger more apparent scratches. What would you recommend? Learning to rotary buff and buffing, or wet-sanding the car?
Wet sanding, always the LAST resort. If you burn through the clear coat... game over.
 

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2000 Impreza Sedan
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Discussion Starter #22
Wet sanding, always the LAST resort. If you burn through the clear coat... game over.
great suggestion, I would actually try the DA first..... I always figure use the least aggressive method first. The Dual Action Polisher is a great tool and it is very versatile. You can get the porter or meguiar's polisher with pads and polish for around $170.

If the scratched and swirls are moderate I would get this kit:
http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/g110-kit-2.html

If they are a little heavier then I would get this one, because the pads that come with it are a little more aggressive:
http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html

If you have the money to spend and want a really quality buffer I would spring for this kit:
http://www.topoftheline.com/flex-orbital-polisher-package.html
I have 3 flexes and love all of them, the porters/meguiar's I use mainly for polishing smaller areas with a 4 inch pad, and metal polishing...

Rafal
 

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Discussion Starter #23
^^^Also to add look at these before and after pics, they were all done on the DA using different products and pads:
Before:

After:

I used a polishing pad, with Meguiar's M83 dual action cleaner, took about 3 times over the entire hood/vehicle to get it done

Before:


After:

I used a light cutting pad and Meguiar's M105 to remove this scratch, and it was rather deep. It it took 2 times to remove the scratch. If you look really really hard, you can still see the scratch as it was well beyond the clear coat, but it made it look better!

Before:


After:

I used a light cutting pad with Meguiar's M205 and it took about 4 times to remove the swirls/scratches
 

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Discussion Starter #24
These here would be examples of where a rotary is needed (both instances could have been replaced with wet sanding as well):
The first pic is damaged causes by some one inexperienced with a rotary using aggressive products on the finish and it could only be saved with a rotary:


 

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2000 2.5RS BRP Rsti
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krzemienr thank you for the tips, i fully understood that, now i just have to trust myself lol. i think i can do it but afraid to try :( if only you lived closer to guide me lol, i will try that this summer for sure. they really really need to sticky this so it never gets lost


+1 for sticky

thanks,
Corey
 

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Discussion Starter #26
krzemienr thank you for the tips, i fully understood that, now i just have to trust myself lol. i think i can do it but afraid to try :( if only you lived closer to guide me lol, i will try that this summer for sure. they really really need to sticky this so it never gets lost


+1 for sticky

thanks,
Corey
not a problem, if you got a pic of the defects share... maybe you won't need to wet sand, and just use a DA with a good compound.

Rafal
 

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Discussion Starter #27
some things to keep in mind about orange peel.... it can occur at 2 places (one we can't do anything about with detailing):
1. It happens sometimes as the paint cures and the solvents evaporate. When the metal is dipped in primer and not sprayed with light coats. You can't do anything about this one....
2. Same concept but with the clear coat. It is wet sanded/ color sanded too soon after application, or the application was bad to begin with. This one we can solve!

Judging from what I hear from Macco, it could go either way, but it's worth a try. These images I was able to remove with my DA (look at the texture inside the light):

These here required wet sanding and polishing:


 

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Discussion Starter #28
Here's another example of rotary buffer damage (this one was done in the factory or dealership as the car is only 5 months old and was never detailed):


removed:
 

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this is such a help thanks a ton!!
i live in michigan and i drove 4 hours to ohio to pick up my 2.5rs and when i got there it had a ton of scratches on it so i got a discount and now i can just fix them myself. ur a life saver.


-AK
 

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Discussion Starter #30
this is such a help thanks a ton!!
i live in michigan and i drove 4 hours to ohio to pick up my 2.5rs and when i got there it had a ton of scratches on it so i got a discount and now i can just fix them myself. ur a life saver.


-AK
not a problem, the best piece advise I can give you above what's in here already is patience! You might need to do 3-5 passes with a buffer before any correction. On an average swirled car, it will take 6-8 hours to do a full correction. I usually split it up between 2 days, one day I'll do the correction, next day I'll apply the sealant and waxes. If you ever get stuck doing something let me know.

Rafal
 

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So I just got my car back from the body shop, rear ended. The back third of the car was repainted looks good as fuck.

But the rest of the car is covered with moderate swirl marks, I'd like to match to make that look good in the next couple weeks.

So I was thinking of going for the G110 polisher, try the m83 polish first. But if probably hit the car with M105 then M205. Then do I have to use anything after the m205 like the black diamond polish by hand? Or just go for the M20 sealant, M07 glaze, and M26 wax combo you described?

I do have an old bumber and old trunk from the accident I can do a little practice on :)

How long can I expect a 16 or 32 oz bottle of one of these products to last?

Sorry for all the questions! Most I've ever used on my car is swirl-x and wax.

This thread is alot of help.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
IF YOU JUST GOT YOUR CAR REPAINTED.... you're going to need to wait about 90 days before doing a wash and wax on the painted part.... but the process you want to do, will work out just fine. If you have panels to work on I would suggest some light cutting pads like these along with the M105. After the M205, wash the car very well again to remove any polishing oils and dust, and you're ready to protect it. Nothing else needs to be done after the M205.

Again do not wax/seal paint before 90 days.... it needs to breathe. You can put a coat of M07 glaze on it, but that's the most you can do
 

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IF YOU JUST GOT YOUR CAR REPAINTED.... you're going to need to wait about 90 days before doing a wash and wax on the painted part.... but the process you want to do, will work out just fine. If you have panels to work on I would suggest some light cutting pads like these along with the M105. After the M205, wash the car very well again to remove any polishing oils and dust, and you're ready to protect it. Nothing else needs to be done after the M205.

Again do not wax/seal paint before 90 days.... it needs to breathe. You can put a coat of M07 glaze on it, but that's the most you can do
I've heard that about fresh paint, never really sure though. The body shop told me it was heat baked and a urethane clear so I didn't have to worry about waiting?

Thanks I'll stick with those products!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
awesome stuff, glad i found this thread before attempting this. Only problem now is if i can find the M105 M205 stuff local. Hate paying for shipping, makes the cost almost double on small stuff like this (to Canada that is)

sorry, the good Meguiar's stuff is by mail only try www.autodetailingsolutions.com They have the best prices around.... unless you have an independent Meguiar's detailer in your area... might want to give them a call and see if they'd sell you a bottle.

Rafal
 

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sorry, the good Meguiar's stuff is by mail only try www.autodetailingsolutions.com They have the best prices around.... unless you have an independent Meguiar's detailer in your area... might want to give them a call and see if they'd sell you a bottle.

Rafal
i looked on meguiars site for canada and they are quite a few dealers, even wal-mart is a dealer lol. However these are for their general products, the professional ones like M105 and M205 probably arent normally stocked i imagine

on that note krzemienr, how might this compare to M105 ----> http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/CarWashingCleaning/CarPaintCare/PRD~0391002P/Meguiar%2527s%25AE%2BStep%2B1%2BDeep%2BCrystal%2BCleaner/CROSSSELL~0392701 Meguiar%27s%AE+Step+2+Polish.jsp?locale=en

and M205 ----> http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/CarWashingCleaning/CarPaintCare/PRD~0392701P/Meguiar%2527s%25AE%2BStep%2B2%2BPolish/CROSSSELL~0391002 Meguiar%27s%AE+Step+1+Deep+Crystal+Cleaner.jsp?locale=en

granted this stuff is probably just average stuff, but i dont feel like paying for the shipping with UPS. Shipping alone on those two products would probably be over $50 knowing UPS. ...
 
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