Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
99rs-t
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i cut my plug out of my ecu..im making a jumper harness.i cut all the metal pins nice and neat that go to the board..the question is how do u take the pins out of the plug itself??its a 99 plug..is there a special tool i need??
 

·
Premium Member
overdeveloped beater
Joined
·
8,335 Posts
Why remove the pins? If you're not using all of them (you won't be) just cut them off flush. On the other side of the jumper, you can reassign functions as necessary to go to the correct pins on the ECU plug(s).
 

·
Registered
99rs-t
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Why remove the pins? If you're not using all of them (you won't be) just cut them off flush. On the other side of the jumper, you can reassign functions as necessary to go to the correct pins on the ECU plug(s).
true..fuck it thats what ima do...good looks storm..coming thru again.......
 

·
Registered
2001 2.5RS SRP sedan
Joined
·
593 Posts
You can't remove them anyway. The pins are molded into the socket. And you're going to solder leads to those pins that used to connect to the mother board. Be careful with how long you apply heat to them. You will begin to melt the plastic holding the pins into the socket. If that happens, the pin will shift and not mate up when you plug into the wire harness.

I've already done this same project on my supra back in 2006. Tedious but a great way to have fun and save $100!
 

·
Premium Member
overdeveloped beater
Joined
·
8,335 Posts
^^^ Truth. When I did my harness, I used paste flux on each pin so the joint would flow super quick. Some may argue that the flux is corrosive by nature and would degrade signal quality over time......but I've never run into any troubles.

Conversely, some argue that solder joints are not the best way for this application due to the vibration. While this is true, It's going to take a seriously long time or seriously terrible soldering skills to get to the point where the wire fails just outside the soldered portion.
 

·
Registered
2001 2.5RS SRP sedan
Joined
·
593 Posts
It just depends on the type of solder. I've used copper sulfate based which worked amazingly well but did corrode ferrous pins. The flux core solder I used does erode my solder iron tips too. I'm not sure if it's the flux Or what that causes it. But the eroded groove on my tip conducts heat and flows solder MUCH faster and easier than the non-corroded side of my iron tip.

Solder joints are NOT mil spec so they aren't expected to last long due to physical stresses. Everything production based is crimped and taped. If you tear apart a harness and look at the common grounds and power, they use crimps, not solder. Unfortunately, I can't make those same style crimps on the in line joints or at the pin terminations. So, if I have to re terminate a wire, I smash it on as good as I can and solder over it anyway.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top