Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

Dealer replaced my 4EAT and...

1404 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  akcel
I found out last night that the stall speed has been bumped up, not a lot, but it's been bumped up. It used to rev up to about 2200 rpm. Last night when I was powerbraking, it went up to about 2500 rpm. Just thought I'd share my experience.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
What's a 'stall speed?' And it involves your tranny? Sorry, my car tech is not too impressive... :stinky: Thanks.
McDade - Maybe you're right, but from other posts I've read, people have done a lot more than what I do :p.

Kickin_81 - I don't know the technicality of it myself, but basically, when you press the brake as hard as you can and rev the engine till it won't rev any more, you've reached your stall speed.
Actually that is "brake stall" speed you're measuring there (which is a quick way to damage your transmission, BTW.)

There is no real way to measure stall speed in a car - you have to pull the TQ to do that. So that is just an approximation you're doing. :)
sounds painfull, imagine the jolly green giant grabbing you by your upper body and then by your legs then twisting you like he was wringing out a towel.....thats what you are doing to your drivetrain ;)

OUCH! bad bad bad, tisk, tisk ;)

be good to your baby :p

Hey, if you've got the money or are under warranty, then by all means tear shit up!

Nick C.
I thought its better to do a brake stand instead compared to a neutral drop since i hear dropping it from N to D will break the tranny and the clutch plates while brake stands will only burn up the TC and not the tranny. this is just what i've heard.

AIM: Daios
Not sure what breaks doing what, however here's a quote from my Subaru 4EAT technician manual:

(Damn, this is long, oh well, I love ya' guys! :lol: )

Do not continue the stall test for MORE THAN FIVE SECONDS at a time (from closed throttle, fully open throttle, to stall speed reading). Failure to follow this instruction causes the engine oil and ATF to deteriorate and the clutch and brake band to be adversely affected.
Be sure to cool down the engine for at least one minute after each stall test with the select level set in the P or N range and with the idle speed lower than 1,200 RPM.

Exact quote. The stall test, BTW, they refer to requires a tach (50 RPM accurate), vacuum gauge, and oil pressure gauge, ATF temperature gauge, and known stall speed to compare against. After reading the test (which basically is flooring it, so I was wrong) I would not do that to my car - it's harsh! :eek:

Oh, and here are those stats:

Stall speed (sea level) 2,750-3,150 - normal (non turbo) and 2,450-2,850 (turbo)

Higher or lower means problems, I have a list of about 20 things! :lol:
See less See more
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.