I found out last night that the stall speed has been bumped up, not a lot, but it's been bumped up. It used to rev up to about 2200 rpm. Last night when I was powerbraking, it went up to about 2500 rpm. Just thought I'd share my experience.
Dealer replaced my 4EAT and...
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McDade - Maybe you're right, but from other posts I've read, people have done a lot more than what I do 
.
Kickin_81 - I don't know the technicality of it myself, but basically, when you press the brake as hard as you can and rev the engine till it won't rev any more, you've reached your stall speed.
.Kickin_81 - I don't know the technicality of it myself, but basically, when you press the brake as hard as you can and rev the engine till it won't rev any more, you've reached your stall speed.
Actually that is "brake stall" speed you're measuring there (which is a quick way to damage your transmission, BTW.)
There is no real way to measure stall speed in a car - you have to pull the TQ to do that. So that is just an approximation you're doing.
There is no real way to measure stall speed in a car - you have to pull the TQ to do that. So that is just an approximation you're doing.
sounds painfull, imagine the jolly green giant grabbing you by your upper body and then by your legs then twisting you like he was wringing out a towel.....thats what you are doing to your drivetrain
OUCH! bad bad bad, tisk, tisk
be good to your baby
Jay
OUCH! bad bad bad, tisk, tisk
be good to your baby
Jay
I thought its better to do a brake stand instead compared to a neutral drop since i hear dropping it from N to D will break the tranny and the clutch plates while brake stands will only burn up the TC and not the tranny. this is just what i've heard.
AIM: Daios
AIM: Daios
Not sure what breaks doing what, however here's a quote from my Subaru 4EAT technician manual:
(Damn, this is long, oh well, I love ya' guys! :lol: )
Do not continue the stall test for MORE THAN FIVE SECONDS at a time (from closed throttle, fully open throttle, to stall speed reading). Failure to follow this instruction causes the engine oil and ATF to deteriorate and the clutch and brake band to be adversely affected.
Be sure to cool down the engine for at least one minute after each stall test with the select level set in the P or N range and with the idle speed lower than 1,200 RPM.
Exact quote. The stall test, BTW, they refer to requires a tach (50 RPM accurate), vacuum gauge, and oil pressure gauge, ATF temperature gauge, and known stall speed to compare against. After reading the test (which basically is flooring it, so I was wrong) I would not do that to my car - it's harsh!
Oh, and here are those stats:
Stall speed (sea level) 2,750-3,150 - normal (non turbo) and 2,450-2,850 (turbo)
Higher or lower means problems, I have a list of about 20 things! :lol:
(Damn, this is long, oh well, I love ya' guys! :lol: )
Do not continue the stall test for MORE THAN FIVE SECONDS at a time (from closed throttle, fully open throttle, to stall speed reading). Failure to follow this instruction causes the engine oil and ATF to deteriorate and the clutch and brake band to be adversely affected.
Be sure to cool down the engine for at least one minute after each stall test with the select level set in the P or N range and with the idle speed lower than 1,200 RPM.
Exact quote. The stall test, BTW, they refer to requires a tach (50 RPM accurate), vacuum gauge, and oil pressure gauge, ATF temperature gauge, and known stall speed to compare against. After reading the test (which basically is flooring it, so I was wrong) I would not do that to my car - it's harsh!
Oh, and here are those stats:
Stall speed (sea level) 2,750-3,150 - normal (non turbo) and 2,450-2,850 (turbo)
Higher or lower means problems, I have a list of about 20 things! :lol:
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