[GC8Luke]

ok so i am pondering going turbo again (it is seriously an endless battle in my brain) but this time i think i might have come up with a solution for money and power. i dont want to make a crazy load of power, so i was thinkin of maybe building a avo style kit. and since i didnt want to throw down 3g's, it seemed like a better option...

this is what it would entail:
-TD04 turbo with wastegate welded shut
-TiAL 38mm EWG with 5.8psi spring
-WRX downpipe (i have wrx exhaust so this would match perfectly to catback)
-Walbro fuel pump
-PP6 for engine management
-uppipe with EWG flange
-LGT/WRX/STI stock manifold-my only concern with this is the crossmember, if i notch it will the up pipe and manifold still fit ok? i know the cruise control will need to be moved or eliminated but is there anything else in the way if the turbo sits in stock wrx location?
-AFR gauge/sensor
-Vishnu TMIC
-Boost gauge
-TiAL 55mm BOV-btw i have a 2000 rs, so i have a map sensor, so the atmospheric BOV shouldnt be a problem

i figured it would work like the AVO kit, but just a homemade version. not pushing crazy boost so the tranny will be ok and so will the stock block

what does everyone think? yay? nay? comments? suggestions?

anything and everything will help guys!

thanks!

 

[Tradewind]

How easy to use is the PP6? Full functionality or ?

 

[GC8Luke]

it only does fuel and ignition timing, so i would presume pretty easy. you wont have nearly the capability of a standalone. i have never used the pp6 so i am not sure exactly

 

[NW OBS]

I have the PP6 in my N/A car. You can only tune in the 'open loop' segment (4,000 - 6200 RPMs). If you want to have complete control, you will need a stand alone ECU.

 

[freeride]

just you might have to bend the ac dryer (think thats what that is) thingy right beside the cruise control....only slighty.


other than that you might need more fuel..so wrx injectors.


And others have had certain up pipes fit the stocker crossmember with a slight shave on the block or the manifold....can't remember!

 

[GC8Luke]

really? well that would be easier then notching the stock crossmember, so ac dryer need bent and more fuel.....ya....i totally forgot about that injector problem thanks!

 

[GC8Luke]

thanks for the help everyone!

anyone else? comments? suggestions?

all is appreciated!

 

[ACraPPyRS]

I'm not the biggest fan of PP6. If I were you I would go at very least with an E-Manage. Don't skimp on E.M., you'll pay for it later if you do...

 

[SR 25 RS]

you'll need fuel rail mod, water pump replaced, some sort of intake for your turbo (tight space)
and I've never seen a vishnu TMIC, but throttle body might be a porblem.

from my custom turbo expirience with a couple uppipes, perrin up is the one that FOR SURE
clears SOHC. also don't forget to do something about fuel. AVO kit has a 5th injector but
runs off stock fuel pump.

In regards to EM, PP6 is working for me but regardless of what you get, get something in there.
I just got it to be safe but I ran without any type of EM for about 3 months and everything worked fine.

 

[GC8Luke]

so the perrin up pipe will clear the SOHC's block/heads, will i still need to notch the crossmember at all? or no? and how did you run without any EM? wouldnt you run rediculously lean?

 

[mattej]

so the perrin up pipe will clear the SOHC's block/heads, will i still need to notch the crossmember at all? or no? and how did you run without any EM? wouldnt you run rediculously lean?

Yes you'll still need to notch yer x-member or put in a turbo x-member. I ran 5lbs of boost without any engine management and it was fine. I had a S-Itc & STi fuel pump installed but never utilized em.there was no detonation so I just ran with it, and it ran strong with aprox 140,000mi on the motor. My car isn't a daily driver so I figured I'll take a chance, you can make your own calculated risk.

 

[GC8Luke]

is it easy to notch the member? you dont have to take too much away do ya?

 

[mattej]

Notching the X-member is relatively easy (sawzall,plasma cutter,hacksaw) however you really should re-weld and brace the area you cut-out since you'll be removing a structural part. Choose an up-pipe you will use and do some trial fit n cut sessions, That way you will only remove what you need to. Keep in mind that your motor vibrates and moves so dont make tolerances too tight or your up-pipe will hit and could cause probs.