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2000 RS Coupe
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208 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys. I recently replaced a flywheel and clutch assembly on a 2006 Forester w/ an EJ253 SOHC. Flywheel was replaced D/T comparable cost of refinishing the stock flywheel as opposed to replacing it. The old flywheel had several visible "hot spots." Clutch hit is an EXEDY KSB04. Upon reassembly, flywheel was torqued properly w/ crisscross pattern. New pilot bearing installed. Clutch assembly installed in a similar fashion w/ "TM" indicator, on clutch disc, toward transmission. New TOB installed and lubricated. Shift fork was properly seated on pivot point - shift fork did not have lateral tabs for TOB spring clips. This is the original equipment that came on the vehicle from Subaru. Engine and transmission were mated by physically positioning engine - transmission to engine mating bolts were not used to compress bell housing to block until the two were adequately mated (last inch or so of the studs). The slave cylinder was bled multiple times and refilled. Clutch pedal has full travel w/ no more than 1/4 - 1/2 inch of "play" before engagement. While running, no gears can be selected w/ clutch pedal pressed. When shut off all gears, including reverse, are easily selected. I'm sort of at a loss here...any input or troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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2001 SRP 2.5RS/RA/SOHC Monster
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2,795 Posts
Probably a hydraulic problem. It's a pain in the keister if you let the master/slave go dry.
 

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2000 RS Coupe
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208 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, that's why I'm at such a loss. Both the slave & master cylinders never lost any fluid duting the engine pull or install - all lines were intact during the process. I've changed at leadt 5 different clutch kits in every model Subaru over the past 10 years or so and never had an issue like this. I'm stumped. Gonna pull the motor again in a bit and look at theclutch assembly.
 

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04 WRX Wagon w/2.1 stroker, 02 WRX Wagon w/ V7 ej207, and 01 2.5 GF Wagon
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13 Posts
When you have it apart, make sure the flywheel bolts aren't making contact with the clutch friction disk hub or the damper springs.
Did you buy a super cheapo flywheel?
 

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07OBS
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64 Posts
Hey guys. I recently replaced a flywheel and clutch assembly on a 2006 Forester w/ an EJ253 SOHC. Flywheel was replaced D/T comparable cost of refinishing the stock flywheel as opposed to replacing it. The old flywheel had several visible "hot spots." Clutch hit is an EXEDY KSB04. Upon reassembly, flywheel was torqued properly w/ crisscross pattern. New pilot bearing installed. Clutch assembly installed in a similar fashion w/ "TM" indicator, on clutch disc, toward transmission. New TOB installed and lubricated. Shift fork was properly seated on pivot point - shift fork did not have lateral tabs for TOB spring clips. This is the original equipment that came on the vehicle from Subaru. Engine and transmission were mated by physically positioning engine - transmission to engine mating bolts were not used to compress bell housing to block until the two were adequately mated (last inch or so of the studs). The slave cylinder was bled multiple times and refilled. Clutch pedal has full travel w/ no more than 1/4 - 1/2 inch of "play" before engagement. While running, no gears can be selected w/ clutch pedal pressed. When shut off all gears, including reverse, are easily selected. I'm sort of at a loss here...any input or troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Can you have someone look at the slave cylinder to make sure it's moving? Did one of the clips come off the throw out bearing? you can look into the rubber boot (dislodge it and look in with a flashlight) on the slave to check while someone depresses the clutch.
 

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2000 RS Coupe
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208 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Took the motor out again and inspected everything thoroughly. Slave cylinder was free of leaks and as stated before, bled extensively. Clutch release fork free of cracks / fatigue, TOB properly seated and attached to clutch fork w/ retention springs. After removal of clutch assembly from engine I noticed that the central spline bearing on the clutch disc had some burrs and was rough on the spline bearing facing the transmission. I took the disc and tried sliding it on and off of the transmission spline - it was a very rough engagement. I also checked the transmission spline for defects but it was fine. I filed everything down and tested extensively to ensure a smooth engagement. I put everything back together and re-lubricated the the transmission spline and TOB. Reinstalled the engine and it fired right up. Subsequent smooth engagement of all gears with the engine off and running. The clutch pedal feels crisp and snug w/ no play before engagement. This whole thing was so stupid because I definitely did not force the engine and transmission together or use the bell housing bolts to compress everything. I can't believe the minor burring that was present, would not allow clutch function. Oh well, new lesson learned. Thanks for everyone's input and suggestions.
 
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