Clutch pedal sticking to floor.

366 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by JDMPREZA713, 8 d ago

Elijah slonaker

Discussion Starter · 12 d ago

Hello everyone, I’m hoping to get some ideas as to why my clutch pedal sticks to the floor on my ej205 swapped 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 rs. Here is some backstory that lead me to this situation.
When i first purchased the car, it was manual swapped. With a 01 forester transmission. He told me that the master cylinder push rod was too short and he would recommend making it longer, however if I ever got stuck I could adjust the clutch pedal. Last night when I was leaving the gym it came undone, so I tried to adjust the pedal for about two hours with no success. Since then I replaced the master cylinder with a wrx one and the slave cylinder, it’s still sticking to the floor. Do you think it is a reasonable idea to add some length to the push rod? I’m going to try to bleed the clutch a little more first and if not I will be trying that

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dtuyen

· #2 · 12 d ago

For my RS, I am actually running an 02 forester transmission and with stock clutch master and have no issues with the pedal sticking. Since you replaced with a new master cylinder, make sure to bench bleed the brake master cylinder if you haven’t already done so to get all the air out. If not done, there is a big chance you still have air pockets in the master cylinder restricting fluid. Once it’s bench bled, you will need to bleed the clutch slave. Pedal will stick to the floor while bleeding but as you get all the air out it should be back to normal.

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Elijah slonaker

Discussion Starter · #3 · 11 d ago

dtuyen said:
For my RS, I am actually running an 02 forester transmission and with stock clutch master and have no issues with the pedal sticking. Since you replaced with a new master cylinder, make sure to bench bleed the brake master cylinder if you haven’t already done so to get all the air out. If not done, there is a big chance you still have air pockets in the master cylinder restricting fluid. Once it’s bench bled, you will need to bleed the clutch slave. Pedal will stick to the floor while bleeding but as you get all the air out it should be back to normal.

Good to know!! Thank you

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Elijah slonaker

Discussion Starter · #4 · 11 d ago

dtuyen said:
For my RS, I am actually running an 02 forester transmission and with stock clutch master and have no issues with the pedal sticking. Since you replaced with a new master cylinder, make sure to bench bleed the brake master cylinder if you haven’t already done so to get all the air out. If not done, there is a big chance you still have air pockets in the master cylinder restricting fluid. Once it’s bench bled, you will need to bleed the clutch slave. Pedal will stick to the floor while bleeding but as you get all the air out it should be back to normal.

Now after replacing slave cylinder, it has pushed out super far and my clutch pedal is super stiff, almost like a break

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silverton

· #5 · 11 d ago (Edited)

The angle on that clutch fork is BAD. you have bigger issues than the slave cylinder here.

Edit: looking around the photo some more, I love the 'triple tested' sticker on the starter. Nothing screams we have quality issues more than that

Edit#2: The ground cable is supposed to go on the top starter nut, not the block. Can't imagine how much difference it makes, but...that's how it is supposed to be.

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EMDGP40

· #6 · 11 d ago

I'm with Silverton, that clutch fork is severely wrong. I might take a venture and say the fork pivot split. Had this happen recently on my cable clutch.

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stalkergc

· #7 · 11 d ago

I think the engine may have to come out to fix that, it looks like the fork came out of the groove on the throwout bearing or the fork is broken. It's supposed to be perpendicular to the slave. You might be able to realign it without splitting the transmission but it'd be a million times easier if you remove it.

You may be able to look through the little peep hole on the transmission bell housing to confirm (I know the WRX trans has one but I forget if it's on the RS)

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silverton

· #8 · 11 d ago

stalkergc said:
I think the engine may have to come out to fix that, it looks like the fork came out of the groove on the throwout bearing or the fork is broken. It's supposed to be perpendicular to the slave. You might be able to realign it without splitting the transmission but it'd be a million times easier if you remove it.

You may be able to look through the little peep hole on the transmission bell housing to confirm (I know the WRX trans has one but I forget if it's on the RS)

If you're not doing any additional work to the engine like head gaskets or valve covers or whatnot, it's much easier to drop the transmission. No need to drain engine oil/coolant. take the 14's out of the ball joint, remove the axle pins, use a foot...foot and a half section of 2x4 between the body and brake caliper, transmission end of the axle rests on the control arm near the rear bushing so it's out of the way so you don't have to dick with the axle nut at the hub, drive shaft comes out super easy. the transmissions are light enough you can basically bench press it in and out if necessary.

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Elijah slonaker

Discussion Starter · #9 · 11 d ago

EMDGP40 said:
I'm with Silverton, that clutch fork is severely wrong. I might take a venture and say the fork pivot split. Had this happen recently on my cable clutch.

Yeah sorry guys I’m kinda new to all this, I pulled the motor today and and clutch fork was gone. I’m just concerned that it might have been the slave cylinder that caused it because idk how much strength those things have. But is it possible for it to literally break a clutch fork? Maybe there was a hairline crack in it

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dtuyen

· #10 · 11 d ago

It is not uncommon for the clutch fork to break and guessing that is what caused the failure. Clutch forks are pretty cheap (roughly around $20 for oem) and it’s something I would replace when doing a clutch job as cheap insurance.

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clsmooth

· #11 · 10 d ago

Had this on my RS shortly after I got it. In super-hot situations when it was like +35*C and stop-n-go traffic on the steaming highway, my clutch pedal would start to stick to the floor. I've had to reach down by hand and pull it back up. Starting behaving again when it cooled down after getting moving again.

In my case I refered to the TSB that's probably not even advertised anymore. What worked for me was replacing the clutch master with one that had the additional bleeder screw at the front (the factory one that came with the car didn't have one in my case).

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stalkergc

· #12 · 10 d ago

silverton said:
If you're not doing any additional work to the engine like head gaskets or valve covers or whatnot, it's much easier to drop the transmission. No need to drain engine oil/coolant. take the 14's out of the ball joint, remove the axle pins, use a foot...foot and a half section of 2x4 between the body and brake caliper, transmission end of the axle rests on the control arm near the rear bushing so it's out of the way so you don't have to dick with the axle nut at the hub, drive shaft comes out super easy. the transmissions are light enough you can basically bench press it in and out if necessary.

There are two ways to do it, sure. I used to be on your team but after getting my engine pull times down under 1.5hrs I've found it much easier to remove the engine than the trans. If you don't have a lift you spend much less time laying on your back under the car. Plus it's easier to do the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel on the hoist than cramming yourself under the car to mess with it. It comes down to personal preference.

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silverton

· #13 · 9 d ago

I am spoiled with access to lifts

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JDMPREZA713

· #14 · 8 d ago

Upgrade to the 06 clutch fork, you have to grind a couple splines in the bellhousing a little to clear but it's worth it. The 06 are reinforced with an extra plate at the pivot point. In my case the ball bolt the fork pivots on pushed through when the fork cracked

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