Well I don't have pics for you but I can give you a simple step by step for either a WRX or a RS.
Drain the transmission of gear oil
disconnect the slave cylinder from the transmission casing
disconnect the wires from the transmission such as the neutral safety, backup lights, speedo
remove the exhaust starting with the cat and work your way back only far enough to get the driveshafts off and the transmission out (you can leave the DP on)
Disconnect the starter and unbolt it from the transmission
unbolt the driveshaft only as far as the carrier bearing as that is all that is needed
disconnect the shifter cables from the transmission
use a transmission jack under the middle of the trans to support it while you unbolt it. Next unbolt the 4 to 7 bolts (amount depends on MY and turbo/non-turbo)
No you can use the DP to tip the motor back into the engine bay so that it makes it easier to get the trans out
Also you can use a mid sized prybar to help work the trans and the motor apart. Then just slide the trans back and down
(on the WRX you will have to remove the TMIC and the pin that holds the throw out bearing in place otherwise you will damage the throw out bearing or arm)
Now that the trans is out remove the throw out bearing (TB) and toss it as its best to replace them anyways
Next use brake cleaner to get all the dust and crap cleaned out of the bell housing
After its dried apply a small amount of grease to the shaft that the TB slides along as well as the pin that holds the arm in place
Then depending on the make and model of the pressure plate (PP) either loosen the Hex head bolts or the regular bolts from the pressure plate holding it to the flywheel
Then remove the clutch disc from inside
If you have a new flywheel (FW) its likely to be several 12point 14mm bolts that hold the FW in place (useless info the FD3S uses a single 54MM bolt)
Now you will need to sometimes work at getting the FW off but it will come off with some work
the Pilot Bearing is good to change but odds are yours will be fine until more then 100,000mi are on the car so we'll skip it
Then use brake clean to clean out behind the FW and then install the new FW and bolt it inplace however when putting it inplace make sure to line up the bolt holes before getting it too far into place against the motor
Then use the impact gun to put the bolts back in place holding the flywheel (make sure they are all tight but tighten in a star pattern and don't drive the first one all the way down
Then brake clean the surface of the FW off to remove any grease or oil
insert the clutch disc or in a twin plate you need to insert the first disc facing the rear then the shim disc followed by the next clutch disc and the second shim disc but put the tabs to the shim disc in a staggered pattern from the first shim disc and finally attach the pressure plate very lightly so at first it only keeps things from falling apart
for a single disc setup just insert the single disc facing outwards
insert the clutch aligner and then in a star pattern attach the bolts holding the PP in place and after all are on the PP tighten in the same start pattern
A simple tool would be to wedge a small socket between a flywheel tooth and one of the guide pins so that you can torque the bolts down without wasting time simply turning the flywheel
Then remove the alignment tool from the pilot bearing and put it somewhere you won't lose it if you have plans of ever replacing the clutch again.
After its all together put the trans back on in the reverse order.
Of course its going to be alot easier if you have access to a lift and if you have a EJ20 there are some other steps but that's basically the way all clutches are done. Oh and when your done you might want to take the time to bleed your clutch master and slave cylinder or completely flush them out.
I think that's about it. Sorry no pics but I've never had my hands clean enough when working on a car to take pics.
Now a GTI-R clutch job is a SOB to do which we won't go into right now.
Oh and when you put the drain plug back in for the transmission use a small amount of black or copper RTV on the threads of the bolt so that it makes sure you have a good seal, doesn't get frozen in place and never gets that irratating weeping of oil.
To remove the front axles use a med sized punch and tap the pins out of the holes near the transmission where the axle meets the housing. The pins are used to hold the Subaru axles in place.
Then after the pins are out of each side take out the cotter pin that holds the lower ball joint in place.
Then remove the nut and lift the hub up off of the ball joint. By doing this you give yourself enough roon to pull the axles off of the transmission. Once they are off the transmission continue with the other steps I mentioned above. Subaru's are one of the easier AWD cars to get the front axles off. Wish other cars were that easy.
Yah its still me. I'll be back in the US by this fall. Infact back to the same place, same car, same job and same house. Kind of like using the old remote to pause your life. Its been interesting and if I ever need to rebuild a Evo transmission, do a clutch job on a GTR or do a head gasket on a GTI-R then I've got enough practice. After the last two or so years working on a Subaru is pretty damn easy.