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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
disclamer:

I am not responsible for anything you damage do your cluster. modify your cluster at your own risk.

materials you will need will be

pliers, screw driver, three packs of blazer's 'extreme lites" instrument accents which come in blue green or red and one sandwich

the bulbs I picked up from work (autozone) part number LT168R. if you want to give them a call, give them that part number and they can check to see if they have them in stock and can save you a trip. you'll need three packs of these (two to pack) and are aprox $3.50 a pack


now, I wanted to have a red gauge cluster without using super bright LED's so I looked for bulb skins. I saw that we (autozone) sold them on the website but not in-store. so I noticed we started selling colored instrument bulbs in green, red and blue so I picked up some red ones the other day



this is your cluster after removing the skins from the OEM bulbs.



I wanted to see how they would look after I got the bulbs in, note. I did not remove any of the printing on the back of the gauges at this point. I wanted to avoid "needing" to remove any needles. removing needles is always a bad idea. you will risk not only braking the small pin that is attached to them, but put your self in a position of not having them work and buying new equipment, especially not good if you want to keep your mileage correct.

http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/...27393107_1252170628_32575892_2015949011_o.jpg

not being pleased with this I decided to tear down again.

to start, begin removing your cluster. if you do not already know how, for 93-97 (maybe 98? fill me in) this is a very common cluster. under the trim below the column there are two screws, remove them and set aside. inside the cluster viewing area there are two more screws under the trim that are attached to the lip of the dash. un-plug all necessary plugs connected to the trim.

when pulling the cluster apart there are two instrument connectors on left and right. one spedo cable (pull hard) and the air bag sensor. (fyi i you are using a non-compatible steering wheel / after market. leave this un-pluged to turn off air bag light. otherwise leave it plugged in SAFETY FIRST)

once you have your cluster out, remove the plastic guard and then trim

un-screw all components from the back of the cluster.

now, I used sand paper for this, some others uses forms o alcohol, I didn't want to risk getting anything damaged on the faces so this is the best method for me. also be careful of needles on the face to not catch them on anything or to touch the face, some of the gauges have heat spots. you can use a permanent marker to fix those issues

remove the screws from the top of the gauges to ensure you can rotate the face around and get to everything you need to sand

this is what it will look like when sanding.

there are two layers to remove. the white and black print, and the blue layer which provides the extra ugly light blue color.



one you have sanded the required area this is what you want them to look like. keep holding them up to light to make sure you missed nothing.

results:



the one on the left is completed and the one on the right has been un-touched



now, for you're spedo. you've already removed the screws from the face but one problem, you've got the trip re-set in the way. this is very easy to remove but very pain staking to do and put back in. easiest way is to have a plate ready, small needle nose pliers and possibly a large magnet to catch the C lock ring.

just remember to install the spring below the white trigger when replacing and be careful NOT to loose the locking ring. there is a notch on the trip post to re-install the locking ring. to get this back on you will have to force the switch down and keep the spring loaded back, have you're pliers ready with the ring on the edge and just push it back in. you will have to probably do this once or twice before you have it completely locked in.

removed and moving freely



removed locking ring, post and spring.



once you have everything sanded down, install everything back in and check you're results.

before sanding:


after sanding:


do keep in mind that you will notice that it looks brighter in some spots then others, this is because of the photo, but visualy to you're eye it will look pretty damn clear like it was OEM from factory.

enjoy and have fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
only problem I had was the bulbs were dim durring the day. I ended up buying two 6" strips of LED's from autozone with sticky back tape on them and wired them to positive and negative terminals on the back. worked even better
 
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