[Deznuts05]

What is the cheepest Turbo setup?
I already have a great n/a setup. Mods include: Larry Ganz CAI w/ K&N pannel filter, UD pulley, Bosch platinum plugs, Borla Headers 2nd gen, Stromnung cat-back and SS dual tip exhaust.
My best times at the track are 15.0, 15.15, 15.3; so on avarage its like a 15.15 I didn't deflate the tires or anything actually didn't really do anything just had the mods like stated above for like 3 months and just when to the track. I was pleased but now I was more speed. What is the cheepest setup that I can get to improve my times... I'm not looking for a 12 or 13 sec car. Just something in the mid 14's. I hear people talkin about 2k setups but I figured once I get speeds like that my stock tranny will die within the first 50miles or so...

So could your SC people educate me and tell me the right way... I eventually want to build up on the kit or just replace it with a sti ver 4 or 5 motor and tranny hopefully a 6spd... anyways that's way down the line. I sorta love the deal that I got with my current setup because I know I can put something really minor onto it and still get better times... I've actually thought about N20 but with my research if you don't have your tank filled no power... with a turbo its always there pending it you have gas, which you'll always have; otherwise you wouldn't be driving to begin with.

So please inlighten me!
Rudy

 

[Graham]

Well, how much do you want to spend? $2000? $5000?

I know how much power you want, about 220-250 HP, good enough for mid-14's and lower. Now, you need to decide how much you want to spend. There is the Ludespeed Stage I, which is around $2200, or there is a custom job, that requires you get the parts necessary for the setup.

There's good thread up top (its a sticky) and there also one titled "What can I get for $2K?" worth reading, they have some good info.



Graham

 

[Deznuts05]

Yea I did read it , price range.... ahh I'm not sure I'm actually not looking for crazzy power either... I just found a guy on this board selling the WRX intercooler, turbo, and a vortex RRFRDSA:LKJFA! I was thinking about goin that way...

from what I've learned all I need are a few pipes crossmember, up and down pipes, and intake...

I'm slightly scared about my clutch.... at the moment the clutch slips when I go drag racing... I just wonder how much stress would having the wrx parts would do... and if I should just replace the clutch... also I've heard that I sorta need a weak clutch so that some of the stress is absored though it rather than eating gears...

any info will help thanks!
Rudy

 

[Thead]

It seems to me if you're really gonna get the job done right, you'r gonna need about 5 or 6 grand. Unless you're doing a completely custom job. Here is how I see it
Ludespeed Stage 3 w/LINK ecu (You could probably live with low boost using piggy back engine management.. but remember, this is "doing it right")
New Clutch
2.5" exhaust
New Injectors
Gauges
and spark plugs and crap.
AND installation if you're not doing it yourself

It comes pretty close to 6 grand if you get quality stuff. Then again, if you're gonna run low boost, standalone isn't 100% necessary, and a clutch isn't always a necesity, injectors would be questionable too.. it all helps. If you plan on running higher boost.. then its gonna cost ya alot more. Low compression heads, pistons.. all that crap, this goes wihtout mentioning a new transmission.

I could go with a baseline kit in a month or two, but I'd rather play it safe and save longer for a more reliable kit and components. Just so I can sleep soundly at night...

 

[Deznuts05]

Yea I'm lookin for low boost... nothing to crazzy... my N/A setup is fine now but I just want hair more power... like 2nd and 3rd are alittle slow... like I get great speed but just want more... just a touch

Oh and I'm thinking about doing it RIGHT! so I'm goin to give the guys @ Rallispec to call.

Rudy

 

[JC]

How about just getting cams and a high flow cat? You could probably get stuff you already have, but higher performance (aka Cobb intake, SYMS headers).

 

[Deznuts05]

Ahh internal engine work scares me... I feel that the turbo is more reliable plus like I said low boost... I fear that the clutch or tranny will fry even with new cams or higher grade N/A parts... atleast with the turbo I can keep the boost low like 2-5lbs and have my power and still have the flexablity to go higher when the time comes.


Thanks

 

[Boy]

Actually, internal engine components are more reliable than forcing compressed air into an engine that wasn't designed for it. Now, if you go big boost you'll need to do internals regardless. The cams will definately put a smile on your face and they are cheaper than any turbo setup. If you go with the Cobb stage 1s (or equivalent) you'll still be able to go turbo later (which was a deciding factor for me as I still may go turbo). Best advice I have is do a ton of research before making up your mind, talk to the N/A guys who are running cams, talk to the turbo/sc guys and make up your mind. Either way you'll be happy I'm sure.

 

[Deznuts05]

Thanks for the heads up... but with bigger cams that will obviously eat more gas... I took on the impression that if I drove moderatly with a turbo I'd still have ok gas usage. now with cams no matter how I drive the cams are still letting more fuel and air in creating more power all the time... also making my gas comsumption worse... that's just what I thought

Also, if I did do cams isn't that more labor hrs than a trubo if I want it done right?

Rudy

 

[Boy]

Rudy, the cams didn't affect my milage much at all plus if you're running an S-AFC or ProECM (I've got the ProECM) your milage will get back to almost stock levels. The number 1 reason for bad gas milage with the cams is "Lead Foot Syndrome" . Now as for install time, the cam install should actually be easier as it won't require any air/fuel tuning afterwards. If you're relatively good with a set of hand tools you should be able to DIY but just be meticulous with your torque settings and valve lash. Install cost if you have someone else do it should be about the same or less.

 

[Graham]

Rudy, with your turbo setup, your mileage shouldn't be affected too much. Right now, with 4 psi, I average around 230-250 miles to a full tank in the city, and around 300-320 on the highway. This is with moderate ON-boost driving. Also, with a programmable ECU, you can tune your A/F target ratio for greater mileage.


If your looking for a moderate power increase with potential for turbo down the road, another alternative might be an programmable ECU. If you buy a Link 2, $1400 for a plug and play unit, you could almost definetly pull about 10 or more WHP out of the car by tuning. You say you only want a hair more power, then consider this. Also, when you do decide to run boost, you will already have one of the major components of any reliable turbo setup. Just a thought.


Graham

 

[Boy]

Graham, are you going to the TSOG dinner Saturday? I wanted to talk to you about some bits and pieces of your setup.

 

[Graham]

Whats TSOG? If its in DFW area, I can probably make it. Is this the autocross?

I wanted to go to the last one, but I couldn't get anymore info out of you about Equippe Rapide series at Pennington. I think there is one on Nov. 3.


Graham

 

[Boy]

Graham, PM'd you.

 

[Deznuts05]

Thanks Graham!
I never thought of that... thanks!

Rudy

 

[Deznuts05]

yea yea yea... got most of the parts... BUT.... where can I find a cross member and the WRX intake manafold... yea junkyards but that's nut... all I'm missing are 2 parts... and I'd have one clean ass setup all done by the Greatest Tuners on the eastcoast Rallispec!!!

Yea

 

[Graham]

Why do you want a WRX intake manifold? That would not be necessary for a turbo 2.5 setup, and it would not fit.

You can buy a crossmember from www.subaruparts.com

Thery are selling the WRX turbo-crossmembers for a quite a bit less than the Legacy turbo-crossmembers, but they are the same thing, which is kind of strange.


Graham