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Please accept this essay detailing the specifics of ceramic hybrid muffler bearings as my application for membership within the RS Club.

Bearings come in many different types, including ball, cylindrical roller, linear motion, marine, miniature, needle, pillow blocks, slewing ring bearings, spherical, and tapered roller. However, this essay discusses the details of only one type of bearing, the muffler bearing. Even within this narrow category, there are several different options to choose from. Due to spatial constraints (and short attention spans) we will deal with only one type of muffler bearing, the ceramic hybrid muffler bearing.

The properties of any hybrid option usually entails several compromises, but overall you are trying to bring the benefits of each material into play while downplaying their liabilities. As such, ceramic hybrid muffler bearings are an ideal upgrade to any high performance vehicle. Porsche, Ferrari, BMW M cars, and McLaren all use ceramic hybrid muffler bearings as OEM parts.

When choosing a ceramic hybrid muffler bearing for your car there are several questions you need to answer. What is the bore, the width, and the outside diameter you are considering? Generally, the stock muffler bearing is a good place to start. A basic rule of thumb is to use the standard bearing size, multiply its dimensions by 10%, add that amount to the original size, and use the new numbers as your ceramic hybrid muffler bearing size. Other important factors you should know before ordering your new set of muffler bearings is the maximum speed at which your bearing will rotate (you can determine this with the simple equation: q1=(qx+qy)/2+square root of (((qx-qy)/2)^2+cxy^2) where qx=normal x-stress, qy=normal y-stress, and cxy=shear stress). In addition, knowing your static radial load, and dynamic radial load is extremely useful in ensuring proper muffler bearing size and fitment.

Once these questions are answered you can begin determining the actual bearing design. Most would agree the double row deep groove radial is the most effective design for producing extra horsepower. However, there has been some recent success using the one direction thrust angular contact design. Of course, stainless steel races and prelubrication are a given for ceramic hybrid muffler bearings.

Installation of your new ceramic hybrid muffler bearings is as simple as reversing the process of removing your stock muffler bearings. Most cars benefit from an ECU reset after the installation of new muffler bearings. The quickest way to accomplish an ECU reset is by baring the ends of an extension cord (the heavier the gauge the better) and touching them to the battery terminal posts of your car while the extension cord is plugged into a power outlet. If possible, use a 220 watt outlet.

In general, ceramic hybrid muffler bearings, if fitted and installed properly, are good for a 27.8~36.2% horsepower gain throughout the engines operating range. The truly remarkable figures involve the torque numbers. A 57.6~62.3% gain can be found on most vehicles. Ceramic hybrid muffler bearings are a ‘must have' option on any performance vehicle.
 

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If you want real horsepower, you gotta get the JDM carbon-ceramic-metallic-composit-titanium-magnesium-kevlar-fiberoptic bearings... I have them, and my car broke the dyno least week, but it was making 900 hp at idle. I can beat a Viper GTS-R but I don't bother. I also get like 500 mpg now. Oh, I forgot to mention, I also have the Intake Tornado too. All this is on a 1.6l Civic engine of course.

This is funny stuff, welcome to the club.
 

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:D :lol: :biglaugh: :roflmao:

Good stuff, amn, good stuff! I especially like the "simple" equation for ensuring proper bearing size size!

:roflmao:
 

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Excellent article, but you may want to edit the ECU reset out. Given a large enough audience someone will read it and believe it and then do it. People are that damn stupid sometimes.
 

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'01RS Ver. IV swapper, '99RS E
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Great bearing write up!! I can't wait to order my new set. Thanks for the info!

With regard to the blinker fluid:
I prefer synthetic. I've found that the lower coefficient of friction, and higher thermal capacity allow me to run Bosch 1.2 Gigga Watt bulbs with no problem. At first, I was woried about the OEM wiring harness, but the synthetic fluid has such great heat transfer properties, the factory 14awg wire hacks it with no problem!

Jason:nuetron:
 

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DID SOMEONE SAY MUFFLER BEARINGS????? oh my god i thought that i was the only guy around who worried about muffler bearings. good thing there are ppl around here that know about these.....like i do!!!!!!!!!!!LOL i love the muffler bearing jokes and shit!!!! :nuetron: :curse: :stinky: :barf: :D ;)

:stupid:

spt
 

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Tim,,excellent stuff,im glad somebody finally gave us the low down on these.Maybe you could do a piece on the STI oil filters?Some real research needs to be on those also.;)
 

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No matter what you guys do, you will never be able to match the capabilities of my solid unobtainium muffler bearings. Available at reputable merchandisers everywhere. :biggest:
 

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Just look out for the knock offs!!

Some vendors and individuals have been attempting to sell the Dur-a-blater valve extentions (the fake ones) with coupons good for $5 off the STi Muffler bearings or a free tube of radio wave grease.

Don't be fooled into buying these things as they are of low quality and don't meet the DOT roll standards.(Except in Calif.)

If you are looking for the quality and pression we demand as car enthusiasts I suggest you look here

Be wary of those who promise performance without the Dyno results to prove it!

Just my $.02

Snowman
Bad spellers of the world, UNTIE!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't know which is sadder; the fact I spent Saturday morning writing that essay or the fact that several folks on the High Tach Message Board fell for it. I wonder what the response would be if it were posted on ClubSi?

It could be an amusing exercise, but I fear retribution from someone attempting to reset their ECU in the prescribed manner. I doubt the glaring error of watts as opposed to volts would raise a red flag to anyone gullible enough to believe in the existence of muffler bearings in the first place.

There has already been several attempts to repair the loose nut located behind the proverbial wheel. Unfortunately, all efforts to torque the offending nut to specs have failed. I strongly suspect the nut is completely stripped. The only available option is a complete refit of the entire steering column. Truly a sad, sad comment concerning said loose nut.
 

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Too funny

Tim K. people are just like that though. I actually have had 2 people PM me and tell me that I spelled UNITE wrong!

Go figure.

Snowman
 

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LMFAO!!!! :stupid:
 

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so there is no such thing as muffler bearings? Man i just spent 99.95 buying a set off e-bay..

:stupid: ;)

i fear the person who actually buys muffler bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's nice to see this stuff still around... and a whole damned forum named after said muffler bearings. *sniff* Brings a tear to the eye. :biggest:
 

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I figure with aftermarket muffler bearings, full synthetic blinker fluid, Type R teflon enriched carnuba wax, lightweight primered only body kit (paint adds extra weight), special space age impact resistant polymer connectors (zip ties) for mounting the previously mentioned bodykit instead of heavy nuts and bolts and finally the full 4 1/2in exhaust which cuts a full 2 seconds off of the 1/4mi time by allowing the car to be propelled forward by riding on the shockwave caused by the extreme noise generated by the special Mugenapexijichksuniversal exhaust. With all that I should be running about a 1/10th of a second faster then the speed of sound which is still slower then the speed of an SRT-4. After all nothings faster then an SRT-4.
 

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bwhaahhhhahaah this thread is great....i read the title and said "muffler bearings? what the hell!"

bashahakhakhhaaka
~SGD
 
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