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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Due to popular demand, I must make a buffing DIY....

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DIY - Buffing, Scratch Removal, Paint Perfecting
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Alright.. follow the exterior detail procedures and then advance to this DIY..

Now that you're washed, de-scuzzed, and completely dried you'll need some supplies... go to your local auto body supply store for the following:

Decent buffer (DeWalt, Makita, anything variable speed)
wool pad
soft foam pad (swirl removing)
2000 grit sandpaper
medium (not heavy) grit buffing compound
swirl remover
liquid glaze, or liquid wax
wax applicator pad
masking tape
microfiber paint towels

(stay within the same manufacurer when you buy the compound, swirl remover, and glaze... Norton, 3M, Mothers, whatever)
I use 3M because it works perfectly when you follow the directions
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practice on anything but your own car until you are comfortable with this process, then attempt your own car

1. Well get ready to make that fucker shine.... Do not buff in the direct sunlight, find some shade!! If you need to remove any scratches, circle around them with a black majic marker... Any scratches that you can see primer in the scratch, or are past the clearcoat will not be able to be removed... If it catches your fingernail.. it's a pretty bad scratch

2. Now that your scratches are very apparent from the marker, get a sopping wet rag and your 2000 grit sandpaper.. Sand the scratches and the circled area until the scratch, and circle is no more, the scratch is a valley, and you're removing clearcoat until there is no more valley.. get it.. - be careful not to go thru the clearcoat, or finger-fuck it!! use your hand in a sideways motion when you sand, not forward and back, this will leave finger marks... don't sand for too long, or you'll go thru the clear, then you're fucked... You can always come back after buffing and sand some more.. be careful.

3. Alright... Now your car looks like a fucking nightmare.... what the hell have I done!!! I hope I can buff out all these sand-scratches!!!

4. Put your wool pad on your buffer and wet it... turn the buffer upside down and let her rip.. now plunge a scredriver into the spinning pad to let the loose wool fly away... this will break-in the new pad

5. Squirt on too much buffing compound on the pad (first time only), now pick a sanded area and go for it... first buffing up and down, then side to side... keep the buffer tilted up on the right side about 15 degrees, don't hold it flat at this piont...add more compound when it's dissappeared for a minute.. Make sure that you arent making too much HEAT!!! You can burn the paint, and warp the sheet metal from too much heat!! If you thing that you've warped the metal (big fucking dent that wasn't there a minut ago) run cold water over the panel immediately!! It will pop right out... Ease into the buffing process, and don't exceed 2000 rpms. If the buffer is screaming fast, IT'S TOO FAST!! - A certain amount of heat is necessary to melt out the scratches, but don't overdo-it. If the paint surface is HOT to the touch, back off, and slow down! Mask off the hood/door gaps so you don't get a bunch of crud in there from buffing...

6. Once the sanded area has dissappeared, go over it for another minute just to make sure that it is totally buffed out... work panel by panel around the car...

7. Move on to another area and repeat... If you are near to any mouldings or trim, mask them off with tape.. plastic is really easy to BURN with the buffer (especially the sprayer nozzles!!!)

8. Go ahead and buff out the entire panel once you've fixed the sanded areas

9. Once you've buffed out all the imperfections, you'll need to wash and dry the car once again sorry

10. Now you're ready to swirl remove all the swirls that the wool pad put into the paint surface...

11. Put on your foam pad, and squirt on too much swirl remover (break in the pad)..

12. Start panel, by panel... spread the swirl remover all pver the panel with the buffer, then buff until it has all dissappeared.. Now keep buffing until you're SURE it has all dissappeared.. Panel by panel, get the swirls out... Don't leave any product behind... just a filmy, swirly residue...

13. Now that it's swirled-out, you can glaze or wax it... if you have fresh paint, DO NOT WAX... Only glaze on fresh paint - glaze lets the paint breathe, wax does not.. They do the same thing, but that's the main difference..

14. Now glaze/wax a panel.. like Mr. Miyagi said, then wipe it clean with your microfiber towels.. fold them up, and wipe the wax off... go panel by panel.. soon you're done..

15. Clean all the bullshit off your windows, and check your hood/doorjambs for buffing crud... wipe it out before it dries, or it's concrete..
 

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1999 SUBARU IMPREZA RSTI EJ20K
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2,628 Posts
sweet. probably going to pick up a buffer pretty soon. thanks for the diy
 

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2008 AW STi
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5,361 Posts
Like he said. PLEASE make sure you know what you're doing when using a high speed/rotary buffer, or you will Ef up your paint and can even hurt yourself. As far as retail products i would also go with 3M products for buffing. Also... wetsanding can also be dangerous if you do not know what you're doing so take your time and be very careful. Im not trying to scare you off from buffing your own car but it does take some skill. Always keep that buffer moving, never let it sit in one spot for long or you will burn your paint.

As far as waxing goes, you dont necessarily have to wax in a circular motion, as long as you get the wax on the paint it doesnt matter the motion you use. IMO the circular motion is wasted movement. Back and forth works just as well and is quicker.

P.S. Shizzle, just adding my 2 cents to your awesome DIY detailing threads.
 

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00 2.5 RS BRP Sedan
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3,239 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
this is definately finesse work..


pay attention with intense focus when attemping these..

we're dealing with a paint film of clear that is as thick as 3 sheets of paper...

so sand a little, dry it and check you progress...

also don't burn your paint while buffing.... it's easy to do if you're inexperienced..


any of these mess ups, and you'll need to refinish the entire panel...

once you've gone too far, you need to repaint that area..

NO PRESSURE!!!!!!
 
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