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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
If you get a new GD rack, they come with new tie rod ends installed. The L&E Fabrications linkage is high quality, and they shipped out mine extremely quickly. Check my thread for pics.

EDIT: Just saw you already have a GD rack.
I don't think I'm going to jump for that now, but when I am ready for a new rack I think I'll go with your suggestion, but I'll just get their GC version. My GD rack is shot, the GC rack I have cleaned up pretty well with some new bellows on it, and I was able to adjust it for the wider track width. The ratio is probably not what I want, but it will be okay for now to get the car running and driving and tuned.

I am getting ready to purchase what should be the last few things I need to get it running. Going with a Killer B pickup and an '06 oil pan and dipstick, and a getadomtune cooling mod.

The front end is coming together, then wiring goes in, transmission and engine will be joined, they go in the car, and then we'll see if I can get it to run!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
I started getting the wiring installed thought I was making pretty good progress and then pulled my typical big guy dumbass move and broke off a bolt on the steering column.... took way too long to get it worked out, but I'm moving forward now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I put the front end together temporarily to see what I'm working with. Very happy with how this is going. I might try to mod these headlight myself, or maybe go back to something more conventional. Donor is gone, I found someone to take it who will make it a rally car, so it won't go to scrap! I am almost ready to drop the engine and transmission in. wiring is all in too
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Transmission is in, I'm not sure why I thought this would be easier than joining them outside the car and putting it all in together, but now I've done it both ways and I think it is easier to put it all in as one unit, but whatever, it's in there now.
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
hooo ra, big news boys and girls, I have a running project car!!! I can't believe I got this far, I still need to hook up the coolant system and brakes and install the interior, but I was able to fire it up and it rolled under it's own power!! I will fire it up and get a youtube video later, it sounds soooooo good! After a few cranks to get fuel in the line it fired up right away! Amazing rumble and turbo noises for like 15 seconds and then I shut it off before it got warm.... Can't wait to get it on the road!! iWire for the win, I could not have done this without them!!
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Awesome! Agreed on Iwire, the money they charge is soo worth it for the headache and troubleshooting it saves. Congrats man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I turn 40 tomorrow, and I set a goal for myself to getting this thing driving before I go over the hill, and last night we sent it around the block! It sounds mean! I still have to install the interior, will get into body work, etc etc etc... but the darned thing ran. and drove and stopped and headlights and wipers and holy moly folks.... I DID IT!!!!!

It still has a long way to go, but here is the run down.
Running the iwire radiator shroud with a koyorad (for the GD) and the stock GD fans, I had to do some trimming on the fan mounting legs to be happy with the fit, but I got it all in there. I'm running the alternator only for now, no power steering or AC. Power steering rack is temporarily converted by pinching off the tubes and packing it with grease (I have new tubes if I want to go back). So far, I'm loving no power steering, I didn't notice any problems whatsoever and it was easy to steer. I think my cobb accessport cable is shot, I did see it flicker for a moment so I think the unit is working, but seems to be a break in the cable (cobb side).

I got some stereo parts, going to build myself a box to fit in the well on the passenger side next to the rear seats. It is getting a shallow mount 8" sub in that box that is a dual voice coil 2ohm sub, I should be able to run it in parallel (I think?) at 1 ohm, along with the 1 ohm stable mono amp I got to power it. The sub will fit entirely behind the wall panel. I am going to eventually apply alcanterra to a lot of the interior, so I'll drill out holes like a speaker grill front of the sub and just cover over that with the fabric. It's getting speakers all around, nothing fancy, and I picked up a dual din CD player for it that can turn green so it will match the gauges.

trying to decide if I should try to refurb the interior panels or pull the trigger for some 6OC parts. They quoted the rear deck lid part at $145 (from their rear seat delete kit. I want to keep my rear seats, just want a new top panel), which seems high, but it would be nice it have the clean trim piece instead of trying to repair that pressboard crap that fell apart...

Almost to the point I can take it for a real drive!
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
It's registered and plated, damn I love rural DMVs, that was so easy!!! I have been picking at my wiring install for the stereo before I drop the dashboard back in, and I need to try bleeding the brakes again because there must be some bubbles in there, and then we can get it out for a real drive. I work slow, but so close!
Before I can drive it I need -wiper blade, rear view mirror, fix window falling into door, bleed brakes, install dash.
 

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How much did you have to trim the radiator fan legs? I'll be running a similar setup: Koyo GD OEM replacement radiator with Four Seasons GD OEM replacement fans. Not sure if the Koyo OEM radiator is any thinner than the performance version. Any pics of the radiator setup? 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
How much did you have to trim the radiator fan legs? I'll be running a similar setup: Koyo GD OEM replacement radiator with Four Seasons GD OEM replacement fans. Not sure if the Koyo OEM radiator is any thinner than the performance version. Any pics of the radiator setup? 😁
I didn't have to trim them too much, only in two places on the lower side. There was a mounting point sticking out from the fan hitting the header, I can't even remember what it was for on the donor, but I didn't need it so I wacked it off... Hard to see in there, but there is about 1/4" of clearance between the alternator belt and the radiator hose, and the other tight spots are along the oil line on the bottom, and the along the header (those were the lower areas I had to open up). But I was able to trim them without cutting any support legs all the way off, and it seems ok, we shall see.

Also took the opportunity to teach my son how to solder, working on the stereo harness.
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