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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I can confirm that the ‘R1819’ radiator I had installed in my 98 coupe was listed on ebay as a VH090302.
woo hoo! can you tell me, does the R1819/ VH090302 have a radiator cap, or will I just be using the cap on the turbo coolant tank? I found pictures of this SKU set up both ways, they seem to be a bit inconsistent. (not sure if it matters either way, but curious and trying to learn) Thanks!
 

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I visually checked mine and it does not have its own full-size cap. The only radiator cap is on the upper tank.

The radiator does have a small plug on top, maybe thumb-size that you could use for filling while cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Big step in the project, I shipped the harnesses out to iwire, I'm excited! I am turning my attention to the transmission and engine, if anyone knows a good Subaru transmission shop in the Portland, OR to Olympia WA area, I want to get it refreshed before putting it all together. 1st gear was a bit chunky...
I am trying to decide what to do with the header... it must be one of the common ebay specials, and it has the 3 bolt flange between header and up-pipe. The header is in decent condition, but the up-pipe looks terrible, someone tried to re-weld the bung back on or something and really mangled it. I bought a decent new up-pipe with flex section and it has the standard 2 bolt flange for the header, which won't fit. I'm considering just sourcing a used stock header and using the new up-pipe. The ebay Header/up-pipe combo was all rigid, and the gaskets on the turbo indicate it was leaking a bit, so I would like to avoid re-using the ebay header combo with no flex section. I'm not looking to spend $700-1200 for a good set of headers, so I am assuming an OEM header with decent up-pipe with flex should do fine compared to a junk ebay header setup, and would be better than trying to source a "better" cheap option, although now it all seems a bit absurd with the massive Invidia turbo back I have for it..... maybe I should just bite the bullet and plan to spend on a decent header....
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Hello folks! a few more steps. I am cleaning up my engine from the donor and was able to track it's history. I found the original add for my engine, it has this ID tag # and the hand writing in pink matches. JDM Engines & Parts | JDM Racing Motors My donor car was running a USDM ECU with Cobb, so I assume I have a hybrid engine with the USDM intake manifold and cam gear....

Also considering not fixing my transmission and buying a JDM 4.44 transmission instead. This is not a daily, just a fun car, I live close to all kinds of twisty roads, I'm thinking 4.44 is going to be better suited for me than the USDM 3.9.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I have been on a hunt trying to figure out what this engine is, and I am completely open to the idea I might be wrong... BUT... I believe I might, maybe, possibly have an EJ207 V6.

Any help to verify or contradict what I'm finding here is welcome, I am learning as I go and way over my head!

I am going to try to document what I found here, because this was very confusing and I did find some of the info circulating that seems to be wrong (backward numbers for right and left cylinder heads). First of all, I was told my donor car had a "JDM Motor" but the seller really didn't know what he had, so that is really all I had to start with. Reminder, see my last post for the actual sale add and pictures of the engine from before the swap.
  • I believe when this swap was performed into my 2002 WRX donor car they moved over the USDM intake manifold and associated parts to get it to run with the USDM ECU.
  • The WRX was running a Cobb V3 Accessport. If I understand correctly this won't work with a JDM ECU.
  • Running coil on plug ignition. This was one area where my confusion started, because I don't think this engine had coil on plug originally, I think it originally had a lost spark coil pack on the original JDM intake manifold.
  • Pulling the timing cover revealed no sticker with an ID number, however the timing belt is almost brand new and the tensioner is made in Canada(?). It also revealed the seals are new, and the mess on top of the engine appears to have come from a leaking power steering pump, it is clean under the timing cover. At this point I am not planning to replace the timing belt.
  • On the front of the block is an R20 stamp.
  • There is some info floating around about the cylinder head numbers to identify the EJ207 V6, and this is where I got stuck. I have LHC 008 and RHC 007 on the backs of the cylinder heads. All the info I could find indicated the EJ207 V6 should have "Left Side Head: LH C 007 / Right Side Head: RH C 008" however, if you look at the pictures provided as a reference it appears they got it backward. The cylinder heads in their pictures, as on my heads, shows LHC 008 and RHC 007. This is what I have, EJ207 or not I'm not completely sure, but these are my numbers. See section 4 under this link for the information in question. INFO GUIDE: 1999 - 2000 Subaru Impreza Gen 1 WRX STi Version 6
  • The R20 stamped on the front of the block could mean EJ205, but if that were the case it would have LH A 003 and RH A 003 for a standard Version 6 WRX (JDM EJ205?) or LH S20 and RH S20 for the Version 7 WRX Heads, based on the information provided on this posting. EJ205-EJ206-EJ207-EJ208 Short Block Identification
 

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I think the list you are looking at has been copy/pasted for eternity. Kind of like the subaru turbo list. Some small errors in there.

I used to own a ver 5/6 ej207 long block - it didn't come with intake or timing covers or anything. I did exactly what the previous owner did on your car - USDM ej205 intake manifold and timing sprockets and coil on plugs. Running usdm ej205 wiring. Works great and the heads flow better up top than an ej205. Plus it had forged pistons iirc.

I asked the current owner, he said the heads are marked RH C 006 and LH C 007, and according to this thread mine were ver 6's: Identifying JDM Ver 6 heads - Perth-WRX.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
After waiting for my turn, iWire is working on my harness next week! I took next week off and plan to attempt the front and rear cross member swap with the suspension and brakes.... wish me luck.
 

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Good luck, and happy days that Iwire can fit you in! I suppose it's good news for us enthusiasts that they are so busy
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Rear sub frame is out of the donor now too, and of course it started raining before I could get the job done (coupe is in the garage, donor is in the driveway). Oh well, the donor sub frame looks fairly decent. I'm trying to figure out the gas tank swap.. not making as much progress as I would like but I have a lot going on in my life ( very sick wife, two brilliant but very challenging children, etc) .... as long as it keeps moving forward it will move under its own power some day!
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Tanks are drained and the old tank is out of the coupe. Hope I can figure this out, about ready to swap the wrx tank over and start putting things back together! Then the front end subframe, etc. Harness is all back and merged and looks good, slow but sure progress! Thanks iWire, Daisy looks great with her bandana!
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
anyone know if its okay to run the 02 WRX rear swaybar? I'm using the complete front and rear subframes from an 02 WRX sedan, but I swear I read somewhere not to use the WRX swaybar. I assume this is only if you are using stock track width control arms, but since I have the wider sedan arms I should be okay with the 02 WRX swaybar along with everything else... thoughts?
 

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You can use the wrx sedan swaybar, it bolts to the other side of your c-links (because the GD sedans, to include wrx and sti had a wider suspension track). The reason it's preferable to use a 1st gen impreza, or a 2nd gen impreza wagon sway bar is they are the same track width as your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
You can use the wrx sedan swaybar, it bolts to the other side of your c-links (because the GD sedans, to include wrx and sti had a wider suspension track). The reason it's preferable to use a 1st gen impreza, or a 2nd gen impreza wagon sway bar is they are the same track width as your car.
OK thanks for the info. (*newb here... learning as I go) I think I have the wider track width now, seeing as I'm running the full front and rear sub-frame assemblies with control arms from the 02 WRX sedan. If I understand correctly this should push me out something like 25mm wider than it was with the GC control arms. I was able to bolt the WRX swaybar in there with all of the WRX links, I guess we will find out! I'm trying to get the rear shocks out , the GD had a 12mm nut on the top but the GC seems to be in between 12 and 13, maybe a 1/2"???? The shock bodies says subaru, so I would be surprised if it has SAE threads, but so far I've struggled a bit to get those top hat nuts off and I really don't want to strip them! I have GD STI strut bars and shocks that came with my donor, and I'm going to use the strut bar tophat mounts as a guide to open up the mount just a hair so I can use these shocks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
More progress, the rear is all back together and sitting back on the ground, and the front end swap is well under way!
I decided to stay with the stock struts for now, instead of hacking up the rear shock mounts to use my GD STI setup. I had a template made and I was all ready to go, but I noticed something you have to read between the lines to figure out from the suggestions across the web. The tophats from the GD don't fit all the way into the center bore in the GC rear shock mount. Yes you could use washers or a spacer to get a better fit, but once I realized it wasn't just the mounting points, it really doesn't fit right, I just stopped. I am putting it together with GC shocks and the GD subframe and control arms and it seems to go together fine, maybe camber with be way out, but I want to just get it across the finish line, and then I can look into a solid shock option for an upgrade, but for now I'm leaving as is without hacking, will probably see if I can sell the STI GD shocks I pulled off the donor.
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I'm trying to figure out what to do with my steering rack. I am thinking about just using the stock GM4 rack for now, adjusted to match the length of the wider sedan track. If I use the GD rack I have to fix the bad tie rod and get one of those GC to GD rack to column adapters. At this point I'm inclined to try to use what I have, power steering rack, clutch, everything I can really, and try to put it together and prove it will run. I have a feeling it will be coming apart again, but I'm okay with that. As a long term project I think my goal at this point is to just prove I can make it run and drive, and then I can start making all the details right.
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If you get a new GD rack, they come with new tie rod ends installed. The L&E Fabrications linkage is high quality, and they shipped out mine extremely quickly. Check my thread for pics.

EDIT: Just saw you already have a GD rack.
 
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