Sure, the drivability issue Im having I believe has to do with a stock Naturally aspirated tuned ECU running boost and the wide range of Air Fuel values it's seeing. Sometimes the car will run great. When it's at idle it sees Vac and knows no different that its on a boosted engine. When the car is on boost the RRFPR adds the extra fuel needed by boosting fuel pressure and keeping the AF ratios at a safe level with the higher than desired Compression ratio of the engine. So on boost and at idle the car runs like it should. BUT! The issues Im having are at part throttle, regular driving scenarios where the car is not at idle nor am I giving it enough throttle to go into boost. Since the turbo will add enough extra air to remove the Vac the engine sees alot of extra air, the AF ratios seem to jump wildly at these part throttle applications. Leaving an intersection or stop light and the car will buck and jump as the AF ratios go through bad ratios to good ratios where the engine can make power. The ECU doesn't seem to have the range to deal with it. Not enough air to make boost but to much to see Vac and it freaks out. I've had to learn how to drive it to avoid those high AF ratios, and it's like drive it like its stolen. This winter it seems the car runs alot smoother in the cold air. But Im looking for something that will drive like a stock boosted car. So Im looking to ditch the RRFPR and get a standalone.
Im maf . Probably apples to oranges here but im running a holly rrfpr with a needle valve to fine tune the afr. And it runs awesome. And is predictable. Maybe its your rrfpr or something on your map side of things? The only thing that affects my driveability is a good tmic heat soak in summer weather. Im running 12 psi and up to 16psi using water injection until i can adjust timing