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Legacy 2.5i (2004)
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Thank you for the information provided.
I wanted to clarify for themselves. Plan to install a turbo on the new engine ej253. Is it possible to secure continuous service with the boost 5psi (no change in the motor, with a compression ratio 10:1 )?
Course will be properly configured (AEM EMS4). Main question withstand the stock engine parts and the resistance to detonation. Turbo td04 (WRX).

PS. I want to get at least half-rate, as described here. AVO Turboworld LLC : 2.5i Turbokit [S2108K07A001T] - $3,200.00

Thanks in advance.
 

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2000 impreza rs blue
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Awsome Write up! I am trying to turbo my 00 rs the cheepest way possible and i have a couple questions. Currently im running delta 2000 cams with an ecu reflash on stock internals. Iv been peacing the kit together and so far have td04 turbo, exhaust manifold, wrx tmic, bpv, 1 step colder plugs, uppipe and down pipe, walbro 255, rrfpr, voltage clamp, and all the oil and vacume lines. My question is do i need anything else? Boost controller? Gauges? Wideband o2 sensor? And most of all do i need a J and S safegaurd?
 

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'00 BRP 2.5RS / 02 Acura RSX-S
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Awsome Write up! I am trying to turbo my 00 rs the cheepest way possible and i have a couple questions. Currently im running delta 2000 cams with an ecu reflash on stock internals. Iv been peacing the kit together and so far have td04 turbo, exhaust manifold, wrx tmic, bpv, 1 step colder plugs, uppipe and down pipe, walbro 255, rrfpr, voltage clamp, and all the oil and vacume lines. My question is do i need anything else? Boost controller? Gauges? Wideband o2 sensor? And most of all do i need a J and S safegaurd?
just picked up a blue '00 2.5rs with about the exact same setup on it and trying to get it to run right. my buddy i got the car from moved and didnt have enough time to get it running right to move it with him. trying to piece all the stuff together and get it running right. answer to your questions would also help me.

Also awesome right up here a lot of good info in here. my main problem is tuning atm and understanding. i guess you can say i come from the computer age when it goes to that. seem like i keep making things too complicated but i wanna make sure i get everything right. in other news the kit is on and car runs but needs some tweaking and i think he put n/a cams in it which im debating on whether or not i need to take them out and if it is worth it to have a set sent out to be ground for turbo instead. think he said the ecu that is in the car was also tuned for the cams from cobb. so not sure what the map looks like and if i wanna attempt to use it with the turbo. im thinking im going to pull the cams and swap the "other" aka stock ecu back in.
 

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2000 2.5RS BRP
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Discussion Starter #84
I posted this to display what was effective and worked with stock equipment. Doing it "as cheap as possible" defeats the purpose of spending money wisely. WRx equipment is definitely better supported, at the same time the stock equipment is underrated.

You can run a bigger turbo with your bigger cams. A TD04 on that combo would be very restrictive, honestly. A VF or 16g to 20g would do well. IHI flanges have basically the same turbo options as a WRX. One thing most kits also never had was an external wastegate.

You guys wanting to push something more radical really just need timing retard for the stock ECU. A Hydra is an option for RS guys, now. We didn't have those. A turbo block would let you run upwards of 18psi, and the stock electronics would still do it with the same help mentioned here. 440s and 6psi on a cammed motor should do fine. Again, a TD04 on a cammed 2.5 would be a very restrictive turbo.
 

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hi new here sorry if im bringing up an old thread ,but would like to say great thread and good information ,
im in the uk have a 01 2.0 sport i believe to be map based
an notice most guys here tune turbo 1.8 or 2.2

anyway i noticed on the thread the 2.0 aint a good motor to boost
im looking into doing mine only wanting to run low ,more for fun,and well to keep me occupied and i d like to tinker ,my first subaru love the car even n/a

problem being ,iam wanting to use the stock engine ,as have no where to do a swap or delve into swapping engine internals
this thread kind said it can be done on stock motor other than what i notice about the 2.0 piston not any good ,and yea i know there are threads
and read read read etc but well this seemed a good thread to ask

and fair play if not possible i know not to read and just buy a turbo car
but well as i say im an old tinkering kind do it yourself guy

anyway thankyou and great thread once again very informative
and thankyou for any advice :)
 

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^ We just don't have any experience here with the NA EJ20. My guess is that you would be fine on low boost.

thankyou well that were my thinking ,seems ok within reason across the engines being done here ,and well little in the way of information in the uk but plenty of available parts so think i may have to have a go thx
 

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Awesome thread OP, loving the info here. I'm brainstorming a recipe for my car right now, what do you guys think.

Phase I ej22e bottom end with 140k, 99 ej25 SOHC heads with approx 140k from a 99 forester, dropped into my 99 forester chassis and controlled by the stock (maf) ecu. Combine that with a vf39 and a fmic, and a rising rate FPR, and wbo2 to ensure good afrs in boost. All running on wastegate, or up to 10psi max.

Does this sound like a reliable combination for a winter DD? With the hybrid motor I should have a lower comp ratio, and hopefully that will make the aggressive timing map more acceptable for some boost.

Again, thanks for the wealth of info in this thread. Hope to put some boost to this pig soon!
 

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2000 2.5RS BRP
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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
You take a lot of risk with high mileage parts.

Those heads on that block are too low of a compression raio. You're talking like 7:1. Too low, IMO.

I have zero experience with European Subies. All this was put together before I forgot it :blowingup
 

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Those heads on that block are too low of a compression raio. You're talking like 7:1. Too low, IMO.
Really now, damn it. 7:1 is absolutely too low, I thought I would only get a comp ratio that low if i went with an ej22t block. Way too low for me, especially considering I want to get the car put back together and run it n/a over winter.

Well ****, lol. All the research I've done thus far was showing somewhere between an 8.5-9:1 comp ratio. Engine is an ej22e from a 97 impreza and heads are from a 99 forester with an ej25 sohc.

Hopefully i can find some way to make this work. I really only want 180-200whp at the end, just enough to make this thing move with decent urgency. All the links I've found so far referencing a compression ratio calculator are from years ago and are now dead.
 

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B.) An RRFPR is your friend!

Any rrfpr? any particular brands models?



#2) Charge temp reduction is your best friend outside of fuel quality. Most of you are still on unleaded gas. Charge temp reduction is probably weapon #1. Intercooling is a requirement, not an option. On alcohol fuel it's a different story, but for the rest of you petrolheads it's a requirement. Get a good quality intercooler!

What exactly is this? is this something that you install into the car or what?

#3) Cold plugs and a slightly tighter gap. Removing more of that heat in the combustion chamber is a good thing. Colder plugs also help top end performance. Charge cooling, low boost, and a happy compressor lets you run lots of timing SAFELY on pump gas. Colder plugs remove heat from the combustion chamber and transfer it to the cooling system. You will notice your heater running a lot warmer when in use. Cold plugs may also be a little grumpy below freezing but just until it warms up. Just dropping one heat range can reduce combustion chamber temps that much.

cold plugs? what is this?

#5) Sorting electronics can be a pain, but then again you should see a Honda swap. Where do you go with all of the options and model changes? Sometimes, the answer is nowhere. Older cars are one of the vehicles you can do that with AND get away with it! Keep the MAF in front of the compressor and everything else falls into place. Fuelling is handled mechanically and timing is left alone. Don't run a stupid boost setting and you'll drive happily. Most new WRX owners jump too quickly into the electronics. There's actually a heck of a lot of flexibility in there already, even on OBD0! 300hp on a stock ECU is a no brainer IF you know the mechanical side of things that supports it.


What all exactly is really tied into this? what sort of wiring really needs to be done?


2.2--single port.

More worth the effort to turbo than you might think. Just remember the above listed rules with low boost and proper tuning. $1500ish can do a lot and complete the entire system. The electronics are just as basic as the 1.8. 180whp is not out of the question. 12psi is workable because of the lower stock compression

Not necessary to put on 25 heads onto a 22 short block to run lower compression?
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Those are easier to read when you highlight your own questions ;).

1.) Paxton RRFPR.
2.) Intercooling or running less boost is how you reduce the charge temperature. Turbos and blowers both make heat. Cooling off the boost is a good thing.
3.)Colder Spark Plugs
4.)Wiring in a boost controller, timing controller, and fuel controller is not always needed. The cars can run purely with mechanical adjustments.
5.) 2.5L heads on a 2.2 block lowers the compression too much.
 

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Good read!

I'm going to be putting 2.5L heads on a 2.2 block I've heard like 5 different numbers about the CR to dropping to low to hardly dropping much at all..

Funny thing if you go the other way around with a 2.5L block and 2.2L heads you need higher octane because of the compression ratio.

long story short I can deal with the driveability issues until the total build is done.
 

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It all depends on which ej25 head and which ej22 shortblock you use, there are 4 different piston styles that could be in there depending on year range, there are also 3 different combustion chamber sizes for the most common ej25 heads.
 

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It all depends on which ej25 head and which ej22 shortblock you use, there are 4 different piston styles that could be in there depending on year range, there are also 3 different combustion chamber sizes for the most common ej25 heads.
I figured you would say that the heads are from a '97 Ej25 outback and the block is from a '95 legacy
 

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99 22B replica
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Thank you for the information provided.
I wanted to clarify for themselves. Plan to install a turbo on the new engine ej253. Is it possible to secure continuous service with the boost 5psi (no change in the motor, with a compression ratio 10:1 )?
Course will be properly configured (AEM EMS4). Main question withstand the stock engine parts and the resistance to detonation. Turbo td04 (WRX).

PS. I want to get at least half-rate, as described here. AVO Turboworld LLC : 2.5i Turbokit [S2108K07A001T] - $3,200.00

Thanks in advance.
If youre going with 5 PSI you should be ok. I dont think anyone can "garuentee" you will be ok with a NA motor on boost but this is a fairly accepted boost level to start with. Ask me 12 months from now but Im confident 5 psi will be ok for reliability.
 

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just picked up a blue '00 2.5rs with about the exact same setup on it and trying to get it to run right. my buddy i got the car from moved and didnt have enough time to get it running right to move it with him. trying to piece all the stuff together and get it running right. answer to your questions would also help me.

Also awesome right up here a lot of good info in here. my main problem is tuning atm and understanding. i guess you can say i come from the computer age when it goes to that. seem like i keep making things too complicated but i wanna make sure i get everything right. in other news the kit is on and car runs but needs some tweaking and i think he put n/a cams in it which im debating on whether or not i need to take them out and if it is worth it to have a set sent out to be ground for turbo instead. think he said the ecu that is in the car was also tuned for the cams from cobb. so not sure what the map looks like and if i wanna attempt to use it with the turbo. im thinking im going to pull the cams and swap the "other" aka stock ecu back in.
Subscribed.

Also curious if you ever got your car tuned properly? Just trying to get an idea of what kind of tuning issues I'm going to run into. Got nearly all of my parts now...
 

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2000 impreza rs blue
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Question: you said never pressurize your emission lines? I recently turbo charged my 2000 rs and everything went well after I drove it around except a puddle of oil was in my intake filter coming from the turbo. I left the breather hoses coming from the valve covers just hanging in the engine bay so they weren't seeing vaccum, could this be why I got oil spitting out of the inlet of the turbo or are the seals on the turbo no good? Also my boost gauge wasn't reading any boost and everything's hooked up properly but There sure is boost! Thanks for your help Its really appreciated!
 

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Question: you said never pressurize your emission lines? I recently turbo charged my 2000 rs and everything went well after I drove it around except a puddle of oil was in my intake filter coming from the turbo. I left the breather hoses coming from the valve covers just hanging in the engine bay so they weren't seeing vaccum, could this be why I got oil spitting out of the inlet of the turbo or are the seals on the turbo no good? Also my boost gauge wasn't reading any boost and everything's hooked up properly but There sure is boost! Thanks for your help Its really appreciated!
Do you have an oil pressure gauge and if so how much pressure are you showing? What turbo are you running? Two things could be wrong there.
The turbos seals could be gone yep. Or the slim chance you're running too much pressure for whatever turbo you're using and it's blowing by the seals. You also never mentioned your Crankcase vent. Where is it going??
 
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