Did I ever tell you how AWESOME YOU ARE???
Signs of life, but is it intelligent?So I guess the question I have is....
1993 Impreza L (1.8L SOHC Dual Port) SWAPPED to a 2.2L SOHC Dual Port from a 1990 Legacy...just used the 1.8 I/M and plugged the EGR line.
M90, mounted in place of the airbox.
TMIC from a WRX(stock TB location)
Now, will my 1.8 ecu handle a M90 on 5-6psi?
What wiring is involved?
More importantly...will my 200k 2.2L bottom end hold up to 6psi?
If so, will it make it 50k miles or 3k miles?
Lastly, how do I adjust timing on a car that doesn't have a knock sensor and has a coil pack?
I understand low charge temps/ cold plugs/ oil cooler...But what about running a Meth/Water injection kit on that TMIC? Will I increase my motors odds of longevity?(assuming the meth/water doesn't crap out at 6k rpm under 6psi)
any help would be greatly appreciated...
Signs of life, but is it intelligent?
I'm not promising you anything with a 200k bottom end . You have something that likes the next gear as opposed to liking redline. They do go 300k+, though. Get it plenty of fuel like the rest of the others. Yours shouldn't need the timing adjustment as a precaution or even water meth. Add fuel with that intercooling and you're good at 5-6psi. Enjoy. 02+ ECU behavior, fuel quality, AND piston machining are what does them in. It's a combination of things preventing them from being boosted as easily.
I like 1.8 ecus for being dumb with lots of timing advance. Well built stuff can still go under these ECU combinations. You can run up to 18psi of boost on all of them just like the factory stuff. It's just more time consuming to get it right.
The 1.8L ECU has an aggressive timing curve. Water/meth in theory does fine on any combo. I've always hated their required and untimely upkeep. BTW, you can't run water/meth through an intercooler. Place the nozzle downstream of the intercooler. THIS IS ALSO NO SUBSTITUTE FOR A LEAN AFR! Detonation is more often caused by a lean AFR than bad fuel quality. Quality and excess heat are tied for second in what is a 3-way battle to kill your engine! Keep all of them from winning that battle!
I've pushed for more focus on available ECU timing and fuel quality because it helps so much. They are SO happy they break transmissions, diffs, axles, clutches, etc. 250hp on 8psi is a snap with good fuel...a snap of something ELSE vital . The only reason you need to retard the timing at all is available fuel quality, not necessarily a "fault" of too much timing or even the pistons. 5-6psi you don't really need timing retard. The mix of defensive measures and appropriate tuning change per year range and with how much power you want. I tried to highlight those differences.
Plan it right and you can take advantage of aggressive timing. Stop the pinging anyway you can. I prefer prevention. The settings are aggressive enough in these combinations to see gains from good fuel. Water/meth works in favor of more timing but only to a point. It will always be a band-aid, IMO. Heat is the straw that breaks the camel's back. Intercooling is more reliable than water/meth, even though you could run water/meth with no intercooler.
BTW, these combinations are still thirsty like any other boosted subie. If you go from a catted downpipe to a catless or from a stock airbox to a hi-flow unit, you're going to need more fuel. The most gains to be had with a scoob are really from airflow, not boost. Better airflow also restrains detonation from better temperature control. With that improved airflow comes the demand for more fuel, though. So, again, never forget the fuel...
Trivia: A 600hp/tq Subie on E85 going around the track at full blast gets approximately 2mpg. Yes, 2mpg.
A turbo and supercharger? You're on your own, like everyone else who has tried it. These are best as "geeky" combinations. One or the other. 5psi from either will hopefully keep you entertained. 5psi won't take all of your money and demand alimony. It can also be reliable and enjoyable for the life of the car. Keep the boost low and learn how to tune the engine. I get creative because I can and know how. Everything you're reading here is what was first shown to me boosting the older cars. The ones still on the road all still follow these same basic rules. You can just get in and go. It's boost without the babysitting.
Everything I have referenced is for premium pump. Upwards from there are more gains from good fuel. E85, 100, or 104 is what I had in mind for better fuel. E85 is everywhere around here but not so in other parts of the country. Good fuel lets you take advantage of the aggressive timing presets by making more torque.Also, when you say good fuel, do you mean 93/94 or head to the racetrack? Could i get away with 93/94 with a octane boost?
I Never Noticed this Nice write-up.SubieNate--The lower the compression the more you can get away with. A 205 at 14psi is no comparison. Those are much quicker. Boosting an older Subie nowadays involves a swap or working with what you've got on the cheap. The nice thing is that you could put just a 2.0L short block under old school heads and keep everything you just built.
You always end up doing some kind of maintenance anyway. It's best to do what you know you're going to need to do first. Turbo pipes can make the passenger rear cam seal a real pain. I have to do a kitchen sink very shortly at 105k. Maintenance bites everyone eventually.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t120424-built-ej251-sti-internals-jrmdb3.htmlI'm very new at this guys.I would like to know if I can do a low compression build with my stock 2000 RS block and just swaping sti pistons and rods.will the rods and piston from an STI fit in my RS block?
Not sure about that one. My nose tells me you'll have a low compression combination good for up to 18psi. EJ25 heads on anything smaller displacement usually drops the compression A LOT and messes up the quench area a bit. The lowest compression ratio I've heard of on stock parts is 7.8:1 for EJ25 SOHC heads.Excellent read. What do you think of the EJ22E and EJ25 DOHC combination for turboing OP?