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Best setup for Daily Driving...?

3663 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  FuJi K
OK so I'm suspension (and alot of other stuff in the Subaru area) stupid.

I want the best setup for daily driving and possibly the occasional Auto-X. The only suspension mod that I have right now is APEX lowing springs, which are not installed. I'm debating on selling them because I do want something adjustable and inexpensive.. (Ground Controls and KYB/AGXs, I'm 18 I can afford too much), but I'm not sure on anything really. SOMEONE HELP ME! :)
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one question...
what makes you think you need coilovers? :)

GC's you have to build.. and well.. they're definately not the best.

If you are looking for dampening adjustability for a street car, i would definately recommend the KYB's... I had them on my 99 GT... they were great, but the springs i had were simply too low to allow me to do what I DO with the car.

KYB's are solid! and will work great with H&R's, Eibach's, P1 springs... etc.... they are 4 way adjustable in the front and 8 way rear....

coil over kits...
before you even think about that kind of cash...
you better have goooood reasons for a coil over kit...
for a street / non raced car? you dont need it!

the P1 / SPT/STi etc. suspension will do you fine!

whatever you do, do a ton of reading/research
ask the right questions... to make sure you get what's best and most desireable for you

good luck
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What makes me need coilovers(or adjustable springs, because that's what GC's are if Im not mistaken)? Winter. I like the lowered look, anything past 1.5". When winter comes knocking on the door, I don't want to be plowing snow, I'd like to be at stock height. Now maybe that shouldn't be a big deal, I don't know.

Oh and I do also want to know on sway bars and strut braces. What sizes would be best on the sways? And do I need strut braces?

I started my suspention setup with a Whiteline Adj, swaybar. MUST HAVE. It's on the lowest setting (18mm) and I helps out with the understear greatly. If you go higher you have to be careful cause the tail gets happy under agressive driving.

I then got a TRi Rear strut brace. This helped out in lessening the body roll. It kept the rear solid in the corners. Nice to have if you AutoX

Both of those are nice to have if you are into AutoXin'

Lastly I have the KYB and Ground Control setup. I had 300 APEX springs prior to the GC. I totaly forgot to ask for heavy springs for the GC (>300's) and ended up with (235's). The heavier springs are better for AutoXin but they make daily driving a pain in the ass if you drive on crappy roads every day (Pennsylvania = BAD roads). I think i'm happy with the softer springs. I'll let you know as soon as i get my car back [crashed it 2 days after I put the GC's on]:curse:

I got the GC for the height adjustability. Rise Winter, Low Summer. I Have the rears at the highest setting and the fronts about 1/4 the way down (so the fronts and rears are even height). It's between .75 and 1.25 inches above stock height. Nice look with Snows on. I'll post a pick when I get her back. 25 days without her, and counting :-(
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When you change the length of the spring, don't you need to get an alignment done? It seems like you'd change more than just ride height by doing so. That sounds expensive, unless you get a lifetime alignment at shop A and go back every time you lower the car to summer setting, then go to shop B and get a lifetime alignment when you crank it up for winter. :) (questionably ethical)
why couldn't you use the same shop for the alignment after lowering and after raising?

Compared to lets say DMS 40's how much do the P1's drop the car?
yeah, playing with the ride height does mess alittle with the alignment. Nothing major or anything. But I plan on putting alot of neg. camber for the summer then putting it back to normal for winter. I'm sure you can put the springs in the middle, align it then lower or raise it without much problems.
rbehny said:
why couldn't you use the same shop for the alignment after lowering and after raising?

Compared to lets say DMS 40's how much do the P1's drop the car?
Why not use the same shop for both situations? Because the shop isn't going to be favorable to honoring a lifetime alignment if they find out you're screwing around with the suspension. If you go in with stock stuff and get a lifetime alignment, then come back 6 months later with coilovers, do you think they're going to align the car? Maybe they will, but I'd be hard pressed to do so. They might not notice that your car is 2" higher/lower every time you take it in for work, but who knows what they write down in their files.

DMS 40s will allow you to run stock height, higher than stock, or lower, depending on how you set it up. The P1 setup I've heard is around 1.2" lower than stock. I still don't have my top mounts yet (well, I haven't checked the porch yet today) so I'm still sitting on the stock suspension.
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Miracle Worker, If you ever want to sell those GC's and KYB AGX's, you may just have a buyer ;)
Let me know how you like the setup, I want it for the exact same reason you have it. How much did the Whiteline adj. rear sway run you? And FINALLY I found someone who had APEX springs! I don't think mine are 300, I bought them used so I'm not sure. How low did they drop the car? Thanks :)
My car was a special case with the APEX springs. for some strange reason it dropped my rear where you couldn't even put your finger between the fender and tire. On a normal car it should be a 1 inch or so drop.

The kyb and GC setup ran me about $750. It's a good start i'd say.
I don't think your the special case, the guy I bought these from said it was about a 2" drop, I was wondering if yours was different. What struts did you run with them? KYB's? Stock? Since I'm poor (sort of :D) I think I;ll be running stock for awhile :eek:
Like they say, soft springs for bumpy surface. stiffer springs for smoother surface if one wants.

if you are going to get a coilover, progressive springs or ones where it has a smaller spring part that absorbs bumps will help on the streets but will still be a bit more bumpy than stock.

DMS 40mm will work ok. other than that, STi struts and some sort of springs. you'll want good damping and not too harsh of a ride. That will determine your spring rate. The good damping will give you good responses when cornering.

well at least i helped out.
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