Any aftermarket clutch forks??

anybady got a pic of were they brake? ill be doing alittle stiffer clutch this summer and brother is a welder so ill stiffen one up before hand

Mine broke right across where the pivot is and thats with a stock 2.5 clutch. Now my car has 250k on it when that happened. Just to let everyone know they are $26 stealership cost.

If it happened with a stock clutch, then it may not be a strength issue....

Lubricate those knobs!



(by knobs, I am referring to the ball-shaped pivot on the trans that the fork sits on :lol

what about that freezing thing?

saw it in another thread for something else...oh, the gears. maybe call the company and talk to them about the clutch forks

darkevildrifter said:

Thats not even where it breaks so you just wasted your time...

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I had a clutch fork break right in that spot. From where the ball pocket is all the way to the outer edge on both sides. The gussetting you added is in the right spot.

darkevildrifter said:

Stock clutch with 220k daily driver been track once from the guy that owned it before me

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Yup! Just like that!

I don't think the problem is lube (that's what she said), I think the metal these things are made out of is really weak is all.

That's funny.... I was just about to post my picture that...

The transmission pictured is currently waiting for my piggy bank to get filled back up so I can purchase a few parts to fix the gears I damaged limping it home..... Currently using a 'higher mileage' RS transmission in the mean time... (120k+ vs ~70k)

Are the pivots the same length apart? The legacy one's pivots look slightly further apart.

They seemed to be the same, the fork for a cable actuated clutch pictured above might have the hole off a bit, not sure. I don't think there is a difference in the RS trans case vs. the LGT case, I'm confident that the LGT fork and TOB used with an RS pivot would work fine. Its not an exteme upgrade but obviously better.

'06 WRX, '06 LGT has same part number.

how can you tell when it breaks? i'm running push/pull on an act clutch, and everytime i tighten, and press down, it loosens again (pedal).

socalximpreza said:

how can you tell when it breaks? i'm running push/pull on an act clutch, and everytime i tighten, and press down, it loosens again (pedal).

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I'm confused. Are you running push style or pull style? You can't run both.

My experience was 1st gear began to get harder and harder to engage, which finally it could not.

Also, another note on the Legacy fork. It does not look stronger, and I suspect it will break on the same place.

the fork has two connections on it one for the pedal, the other to what looks like a slave cylinder that runs hydraulic cable from my brake master cylinder.. this is why i'm so confused.

it's a 93 btw.

If your clutch is a cable type, (usually on the L's) you'll connect a cable directly to the clutch fork. If it's hydraulic, your clutch pedal will be connected to the slave cylinder which is connected to the master cylinder which is connected to the clutch fork. There is no cable connected directly to the cluch fork on hydraulic clutches AFAIK.

The clutch fork on my stock 2.2 cracked at the pivot ball, it destroyed what was left of my clutch and made getting into gears very hard at any speed. At the end I was having to stop the car and turn off the motor to get into 1st or reverse from a stop.

Nathan

if only i werent stuck at work right now, i'd take pictures of it.

pix up later today.