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Discussion Starter #1
I keep posting and coming back to the forum for help and I finally took a day off work for once so I'm kicking off my member's journal.

I picked up my RS back in 2014. Drove from Philly area to Fredericksburg VA. The car had 120k on the odometer and the body and interior were and still are in pretty good shape.
Here's the day I picked up the car:
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I had to repair a few things like rusted out heat shields and a sloppy shifter. After that I drove it completely stock for another 30k miles or so before one of the cam gears lefts the shaft on the way to work last September.

I'd always wanted to have a STi-swapped GC so I started looking for donor cars or parts. I found PMP who are close by up near Allentown and Pete up there was able to find pretty much everything I needed over the course of several months. I did an 05 STi with the 6 speed and the brembos. Pete was able to get me all the supporting parts as well like driveshaft, axles, diff, crossmembers etc.

I went with iwire for the harness and did all the dash work, but I had a local shop, Freedom Motorsportz do the heavy lifting on the engine and trans. They got the car up and running for me around mid march.

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I was able to drive it around a little before the radiator cracked and I realized the turbo was smoking quite a bit under boost.

I'm currently pulling the turbo and ordered a rebuild kit. If the turbo rebuild does indeed solve my oil consumption issues, I'm just going to stick with the RS OEM radiator and I should be back on the road.
 

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Looks good!!! Pete's a good dude! I own his old STI Forester(which I have replaced all but the exterior and brembo's) and my 06 WRX swapped coupe (I bought from the guy that paid to have it swapped) had all the parts come from PMP and harness done by iWire. (Which is now getting a built motor and a full on PPG trans) Lol...
Buy built and rebuild to my liking..

I'm in Williamsport, PA..

Troy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks good!!! Pete's a good dude! I own his old STI Forester(which I have replaced all but the exterior and brembo's) and my 06 WRX swapped coupe (I bought from the guy that paid to have it swapped) had all the parts come from PMP and harness done by iWire. (Which is now getting a built motor and a full on PPG trans) Lol...
Buy built and rebuild to my liking..

I'm in Williamsport, PA..

Troy
Love that Forester!
 

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Love that Forester!
Thank you sir! It's the one of my 3, I won't get rid of!
Full JDM STI Forester swap, JDM STI Forester seats, motor, suspension, etc, etc, etc.. 440whp on pump

Silver 05 is Baja 4eat with paddle shifters.. Motor, suspension, 13 STI limited seats, etc, etc, etc.. 400whp on pump

RS was 400whp on pump.. Pulled the stock motor, for winter.. Waiting on built motor.. looking at 500whp w/pump


Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright so I'm pulling the turbo. Does anybody have advice on how to get the turbo drain line disconnected from the top without removing everything else that is in the way? Everything is free except for this drain line.

Is there another way to disconnect the hose from below? I stopped investigating since it is raining and I'm working outside, but some guidance would be welcome...

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Pull!!!!!

As long as the bottom side, doesn't have a hose clamp, as well..

Then again.. you need to/should replace the drain hose, regardless.. sooo..

Cut it, if Pull, doesn't do it.


Edit.. you can get to the hose, from underneath. Looking from under the car and behind the subframe, look over the axle and under the turbo..
 

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In my experience there's a weak ass squeeze clamp on the turbo oil drain lines, a pinch it with your fingers type. However, the drain hose is usually so cooked it doesn't really do anything. Like winnerone23 said, PULLLLL!
Or cut it. I think I've used breather hose cut to size as a replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright thanks to everyone for the ideas. My drain line has a screw hose clamp not a spring clamp so I guess in the long run it was a little easier. I was able to reach down from the top and around where the downpipe would've been to get a nut driver on the clamp.

Now I have this:
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I also noticed that I have a small crack in the housing here:
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It doesn't seem to be causing an problems, maybe some extra exhaust gases leak into the wastegate. Is this going to end up causing the housing to fail?

Third question: does anybody know the best way to separate the two halves of the turbo? I figured I'd ask before I damage something.
 

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You'll need a decent set of snap ring pliers, not one of those small dinky sets. Gotta be able to open the ring on the compressor housing a fair amount. The exhaust housing I think needs a 10 or 12 mm socket.
Edit: scratch that, looks like you'll just a wrench or socket to get that baby apart.
 
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