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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm about to install my Eibach Pro's/Agx's on and I have the front Whiteline Anti-lift kit. What should I tell the shop to set my camber and toe to?

I'm up for any suggestions. I currently have the FHI 18mm rear sway bar in and I'm happy but I wouldn't mind a faster turn in maybe getting the whiteline adj. one and setting it to 19 or 20 not sure... I'd like to install the springs and alk on first.

I also auto-x, knowing that should help you dcide'n on what to say... I understand that I need to relearn how the car reacts to certain situtions so I'll be takin it slow for the first 6 months. Just any ideas...
Thanks!
Rudy
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After some research (search button!)
this is what I found:
COwannago said:
I took the car to get aligned after putting on the DMS with the suggested settings (-1.5 front, -1 rear) very nice! Solid at least up to 100 and the tires aren't squeeling as much, I still have the 'poos.

Nick C.
Does anyone want to agree with this quote?
 

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if you auto-x competitively, then you pretty much want as much negative camber as you can get. the front is good for up to -1.5* (sometimes less). the rear is not adjustable stock, mine is at about -1*. toe is more complicated since you have a more aggressive suspension on there, plus all the caster you'll get from the ALK. I also don't know how you drive. i would probably recommend a bit of toe out in the front (say 1/16th, maybe 1/8th) and zero toe in the rear. if you auto-x alot and don't mind a twitchy car or buying tires, then you could go with some toe out in the rear and possibly more toe out in the front as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
"if you auto-x competitively, then you pretty much want as much negative camber as you can get. "

not competitively, just to get the bug of out my system. What settings do you have? all around camber, toe, anything else

"I also don't know how you drive."

Like an old lady.. I avg 75mph and sometimes 85mph max, on the highways I don't drive fast I am more prone to getting into trouble. On the street I keep it legal. I'd like the comfort in knowing if I ever had to go say 90+ I'd still have stablity rather than spinning out

"if you auto-x alot and don't mind a twitchy car or buying tires, then you could go with some toe out in the rear and possibly more toe out in the front as well"

I don't mind the twitchy. Just like I said perviously I'm goin for stablity @ higher than avg speeds like 75 and up also I'd also like to get the rear end to come around easier during an auto-x.

Thanks!
"quick and nimble"

I forgot to mention my tires, I have 205 55 16 Toyo FZ4's stock rims. I'm thinking about getting Rota Formels in 17" and not quite sure in what meats... I like the toyo ts-1 but not sure... any ideas?
Or Sumitomo HTRZ II?
 

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What settings do you have? all around camber, toe, anything else
i run in GS so i don't know how much help this will be, but here you go. i have the max negative camber in the front and i ran 1/8th inch toe out in the rear this year, though, giving the rally-x's/gravel road abuse i put in. i also ran BFG G-force R1 race tires, 205/55 16, 40psi f/r. the car was pretty good. on the street, with dunlop sp5000s, i had to be careful about lift-throttle oversteer because of the toe, but that was it. the car has been, um, well in excess of the speedlimit anywhere in this country and it was plenty stable. next year i'll be running some toe out in the front as well, but i'll also have 225/50 kumhos and AGX's.

also, when i asked how you drove, i didn't mean outright speed so much as smoothness. if you're jerky with your inputs, steering wheel or pedals, rear toe out is not a good thing to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
input I'm pretty light handed I usually drive with one hand (left hand on 7) when I need to merge or do anything still smooth hands @ 10 and 2 I like to be as flawless as possiable I drive alot with the lady... (freaks her out)


sorry if you already stated it already but
Front:
toe: 0"
camber: ?

Rear:
toe 1/8 inch Pos or Neg
camber: ?


Caster?
 

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Front
toe: 0-1/8th out, depending on preferences
camber: max this baby out, about -1.5*
caster: not adjustable stock. the ALK increases it, but i don't know that its adjustable.

Rear
camber: not adjustable stock. it should be around -1*
toe: 0 probably, maybe some toe out (IIRC that's negative) for extra tail-happiness. good for auto-x.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
10th Warrior said:
Front
toe: 0-1/8th out, depending on preferences
How about 1/16th out (does out mean +/-?)

10th Warrior said:
Front
camber: max this baby out, about -1.5*
Will that kill the thread life? or make excessive wear on the inside area? I understand that rotation is key to max thread life every 3k or 1500 after hard driving. Any advice?

10th Warrior said:
Front
caster: not adjustable stock. the ALK increases it, but i don't know that its adjustable.
I don't think its adjustable either

10th Warrior said:
Rear
camber: not adjustable stock. it should be around -1*
I sorta hit a curb at one point last year and I think I may have messed that up. The car did go in for an est. and it was a bit off but it seems to have corrected itself.

10th Warrior said:

toe: 0 probably, maybe some toe out (IIRC that's negative) for extra tail-happiness. good for auto-x.
Some? what's IIRC

Also do you think the local good year can do this or should I goto a Performace shop like Rallispec?
 

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How about 1/16th out (does out mean +/-?)
1/16th out means that the front of the two wheels will be facing 1/16th of an inch farther outwards from the car. like i said, i can never remember which is + and which - in toe. just tell the guy doing the alignment toe out and you'll be golden.

Will that kill the thread life? or make excessive wear on the inside area? I understand that rotation is key to max thread life every 3k or 1500 after hard driving. Any advice?
camber that can be acheived via stock adjustment methods really won't wear on the tires that much. toe is the real tire killer. neither will matter if you are auto-xing regularly on the tires. that will kill them faster ;) as for rotation, yeah, that would be fine. i do mine every 5-7k, but then again, i don't race on my street tires (mostly).

it was a bit off but it seems to have corrected itself.
probably the tire wearing rather then the alignment changing.

Also do you think the local good year can do this or should I goto a Performace shop like Rallispec?
its not bad to give a good shop like Rallispec the business if they're not to far from you. otherwise, any shop with a Hunter Alignment Rack will do do a fine job. alignments are real easy to do with a rack. even a one-eyed badger with an appetite for lead chips could give you an accurate alignment with one of those :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sweet I can't wait! thanks for all the help

oh yea Rallispec is like over the bridge and through the woods... not that far... it just that their really busy and I don't like to bother people even though its cash in their pockets... if I feel the goof ball is not understanding the words that are coming out of my mouth I'll hit Rallispec up with some crazzy top secret allignment job!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
UPDATE!

WOO HOO I dropped of my baby last night! I can't wait to pick her up...

This is what I'm shooting for

Front end:
Toe: 1/16
Camber: -1.5
Castor: not sure but its the Whiteline ALK so is positive something


Rear end:
Toe: 0
Camber: Can't adjust (Hopefully when Phil or Accurit DJ gets back I'm getting the Sti latteral Links WOO HOO!)
Castor: Can't adjust that either
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
UPDATE v1.0

ok I just got back from the go-cart track! OOPS! I meant to say I got my car back with the parts on... WOO HOO its almost everything that I wanted. It drives just like a go-cart and stops like ahh well go-cart...

if you need an update on the parts that I installed they were:

KVR Front Rotors and Pads = Stoping is sweet no fade... still mushy because of the rubber lines but over all stoping ablity incressed

Whiteline ALA = Brake dive gone well to a point. Launch dives all gone!

Eibach Pro Kit and Kyb AGX

the Sturts much love!
the Springs... well there's not much of a drop... well actually I don't think there was any, less the backend... All I have to say is that if those silly Germans thinks that the Subies work better this way more power to them.

Hard turns flat as can be! Hard brakes pretty much even. Bumps and potholes remarkably smooth. I like the feel just wish I was a bit lower... but I need to let them set in.


On the odd side when I turn the wheel to the left there's a rubbery sound sort of like when you goto a shop that has their floor painted and you just put on new tires and twist the wheel a bit... that's the sound... well I still haven't gotten the allignement so hopefully I'll figure out what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well just got back from GoodYear and they said that the front can not be set no more than -.7

this is what I got back

LF
Camber -.7
Castor 3.1
toe -0.03

RF
Camber -.6
Castor 2.3
toe -0.11

if you do the math it turns out that the front is set @
Camber-1.3
Castor 5.4
Toe -0.14


the Rear end is set to stock....

How does it drive... well still like a go-cart... @ highway speeds its turning inputs are amazing... a hair in any direction to shoots in that direction.... gees I going to have fun now ttyl
 
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