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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #121
I've made some progress on the car but I haven't been able to upload to photobucket. Everytime I do it tells me I need a new version of Adobe. So I download the newest version and restart windows. Then it's the same thing over and over again. Same with YouTube.? I've never had this problem before.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
These pics are way behind so this will be a big post.
Got the side skirts on and they are solid so I used body filler to smooth out the gap between the door jam and the side skirts.


Sanded all around the door frame and added body filler to blend in the car to the new quarter panels.

On the rear pillars was a big gap. I had to use more bondo than I wanted but what else can you do really? It took a couple applications to get the lines smoothed out.


On this side you can still see the rivets

After the first application of filler I put down some test white primer to see how the lines matched up. Not too bad.

After the second application of filler.


After the second application I sanded again and put down some high build primer to fill the little holes and scratches.



Re-sanded and everything looked good! So I taped it up for some sealer.

I just did one coat of sealer since all the steel has been done previously this is just to seal the freshly exposed metal and provide a moisture barrier for the fiberglass


I cant see any rivets!
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #126

After the primer dried I got the first coat of base put down....
the weather is already cooling off up here so I had to come down in the late morning and paint in the afternoon when the temperature was the warmest. The last thing I wanted was to start the dusty furnace up in the roof. To lay down a good coat you should also look at the humidity the lower the better, and get your source air as dry as possible.
Drain your tank moisture valve
Then do it again.

Wet air makes dull paint

water in your air makes water spots!

My shop has inline air/water/oil separators so I drained those, after two days of rain they were full just from the moisture in the air. then I replaced the water with 99% isopropyl alcohol and this will dry out the lines. I run another separator and a regulator just before my final gun line. 30 PSI, my gun says max 21 but the pressure is just too low to atomize properly IMO.

I clean my guns with gunwash then rinse with isopropyl and dry it out completely, unless Im shooting the same product within a few minutes.


This base coat came out a little dull, there was some orange peel too, but thats why its a base coat. After it dried for two days I came back with some 600 grit wet sand paper. That took care of the orange peel
These are all after the first coat





Stupid insects!!! oh well you'll sand out after just dont go in the met or clear.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #128
The final coat!!!

after wetsanding with 600 grit for three or so hours I laid down a coat of met white and a coat of clear three hours after that.


http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx42/brandonross79/99%20Impreza/0e37717f.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx42/brandonross79/99%20Impreza/bda0752d.jpg


 

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2014 WRX, 1996 Brighton Coupe
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555 Posts
Nice work man. This must not be your first rodeo.

Feel free to PM me if you don't want to go OT in this thread, but might I ask what sort of paint setup you have? I'm looking into something for my own garage, but Idk really where to start. What volume compressor? HP motor? Hose setup? I know you need the air/oil seperator and probably an external regulator, but do you run hard pipe to a certain point to avoid pressure loss in the hose? I know HVLP is the gun style to get (I think), but any recommended brands for a home setup (i.e. not too expensive). This will be just for my track car (for now) so a perfect job is not required (yet) really.

Love the widebody thoough!
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #133
Nice work man. This must not be your first rodeo.

Feel free to PM me if you don't want to go OT in this thread, but might I ask what sort of paint setup you have? I'm looking into something for my own garage, but Idk really where to start. What volume compressor? HP motor? Hose setup? I know you need the air/oil seperator and probably an external regulator, but do you run hard pipe to a certain point to avoid pressure loss in the hose? I know HVLP is the gun style to get (I think), but any recommended brands for a home setup (i.e. not too expensive). This will be just for my track car (for now) so a perfect job is not required (yet) really.

Love the widebody thoough!
Thanks

Really I'm just an amature at this stuff. I have done a couple paint jobs previously but I learn from errors mostly. The tank is a stand-up large 50 gallon with a twin piston oiled 220V compressor. Its a shop duty size, actually in a separate building, we've got two hangars connected by a seacan for a hallway. the lines are hard plastic up to the seacan, I've got about 150' of hose after that before it hits the gun, honestly I dont think the type of tank or hose is important. Air pressure is air pressure. As long as the air quality is good and dry and the compressor can supply the required volume. So check your compressor ratings vs your gun ratings, or just use common sense, if your compressor never stops running its probably too small. if you have alot of hose use a regulator close to your gun. if you have less than alot of hose it should be fine next to your tank.

I did my first paint job with a 10 gallon compressor, The pump just has to work alot more often, just dont buy a cheap air dryer or regulator.
Guns: I've used expensive guns and cheap guns and I cant tell the difference yet. A cheap gun can outspray a very expensive gun if you dont know how to set it up. I know that from experience. Just do some test sprays (water works) or thinner to see what the different settings do to the fan. Definitely use an HVLP gravity feed gun. you can get them very cheap and they are all basically the same. The key to a good job is planning it properly and taking your time. Oh yeah and a clean floor in a warm shop. Dont cheap out on a breathing mask either, that stuff is deadly.

 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #135
These are the rims I'm going with.
Drag DR-34 18x8 et35. They are as close to the BBS originals on the 22B as I can afford, I like the black but I can always change to gold later.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
After I'm done the body I want to replace the engine with a USDM WRX engine.
Anyone know a good write up on this or a good place to find a rebuilt longblock? Seems everybody does the JDM swaps but I need a car that can run on crappy canadian fuel. Power is last on my list, but an upgrade from the NA 2.5 would be nice. I dont want an overly complicated swap or wiring nightmare. Dont want to run a stand alone or piggyback ECU, theres no tuners or dynos within 500 miles. So everything has to be pretty much PnP.
This engine is getting pretty tired
What would you guys recommend?
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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27,852 Posts
find a wrecked wrx. take both engine harness out of their respective cars. send them to iwire, he'll make it plug and play. then the hard part is pulling both engine and dropping the turbo engine into your car.
 

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2014 WRX, 1996 Brighton Coupe
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find a wrecked wrx. take both engine harness out of their respective cars. send them to iwire, he'll make it plug and play. then the hard part is pulling both engine and dropping the turbo engine into your car.
Idk too much about the older USDM variants, but the above statement is probably the better idea. You can do your own wiring work if you wanna save a few hundred.
 

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98 2.5rs / 91 legacy turbo!
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damn nice work my friend, im in the same boat here, except i paid 800 for my rs :p and im attempting to do the engine and drivetrain work before i start on the body... and im in BC, once again, the only impreza in this neck of the woods :) hahaha. keep it up bud!
 
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