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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
I painted my car in the same hangar last year. I was happy the way it turned out but its only my second attempt at a DIY paint job and there were problems. I basically wanted to get the car on the road in a way that it didnt look like a complete POS. The rear quarters were starting to rust to a point where there was as much RUST around the fender wells as steel. I counldnt get it all out and as one poster on my thread pointed out it would come back under the paint. And he was right.

The driver side was worse than the passenger side. the rsut coming back from under the paint. There were bubbles forming under as well but they are hard to see in these pics.



Either way this is what I wanted to do last summer but didnt have the time for. It was a big project but I think the widebody kit will be much bigger
 

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Discussion Starter #82


there was a gap in the bumper/fender line that I couldnt repair. Frame damage thanks to the previous owner.

You can see some of the lines dont match up perfectly up front either damage from the same airborne adventure. I dont know if I'll be able to reapir this damage since its way beyond my experience and tools. but i think it gives the car a bit of character. Battle scars.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
took off the rear bumber cover so I could rough trace the line of the new fenders. they are gonna be HUGE.


At least the point of no return is very early in the job, no choice to turn back after hacking up the quarter panels.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
a comparison of the RS body with the WRC body, Shes gonna have a nice fat ass.



Too late now, I'm seeing this through to the end. Good thing I have the sweetest/slackest job besides Playboy photographer. lots of free time and space to do a project like this

I found metal with no rust wow.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
This is what I wanted to do last year but with a brand new son it was hard to find the time, and the funds. This year I'm taking my time and not worrying about getting it on the road asap.



Got the other side cut out and sanded down to bare metal. the arches are gonna be massive. I had a difficult time deciding how to replace the stiffness that was lost by cutting out the wheel wells.





I though about fitting a single peice of new steel to fill the gap but after thinking about how impossible it would be to find a perfect fit I decided to cut the steel into 1" wide strips and fill the gaps piece by piece. it took a long time but the new wheel wells started to take shape.


For eace piece I drilled a hole in the inner fender and used a cleco to hold it in place then fit and bent the next one, it was a pretty long process but it was pretty simple to do. You just have to make sure the fingers fit good. Thankfully My hanger has a huge sheet metal bender and a shelf full of celcos
 

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Discussion Starter #88

learning how to mig weld.
Bascially all I could figure out was spot welding over and over again, even with it on the lowest setting I kept blowing through every time I tried to run a bead.


Did the outside edge first then removed most of the clecos and welded the inner fender to the new fingers. The result came out pretty strong. Not as strong as the factory fenders I'm sure but I dont think any of these will be breaking or flexing.



 

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Discussion Starter #91 (Edited)
Thanks!
I been spending all my free time down at work working on this car, I hope it turns out nice. I could go buy a new car and make payments every month but whats the fun of that???



I finished welding up the new wheel wells, they seem pretty strong. There are some gaps between the fingers so I covered them with aluminum tape from inside the car. Sorry no pics, may get some later. I'll spray the wells with two part truck bed liner later to seal them up, I hope that keeps the water out. That stuff is awesome, tough as nails. If I can fill all the gaps nothing will be getting in there



Took some of the left over steel and made arches for the quarters to attach to at the top of the new wheel wells. Measured a small gap for some plastic inserts to go between the arches and the quarters then welded them on and painted with corrosion restistant primer.



Next is spraying the truck bed liner, so got the car outside and prepped for that




also test fitted the new front fenders. Alot of (guess) work to find the spots to drill the holes where they'll attach to the car. They stand a little taller than the original fenders but only about 1/8", some sanding later may take care of that. The rear fenders are gonna be higher than the trunk too. Washers between the trunk and the arms might help but then the gap between the trunk and the rear bumper will grow. Hmmmm??

 

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Discussion Starter #93
I thought I lived far up North! The shipping was cheaper than what Steve at Aerosim originally quoted me, but at least you wouldnt have to pay duty on top of that. I'm a little concerned about how the epoxy that will be used will survive the winters up here. I'm sure if you're from Alaska you would understand but most people never see that kind of cold, niether do most cars. But all the salt on the roads 6 months of the year makes the rust happen very fast so thats why I ended up getting the kit.

I welded on some angle brackets to hold the weight of the new side skirts, four along the door bottom edge and three along the bottom body seam to keep the skirt from hanging down and getting ripped off. There was also a large spot of rusted steel that had to be cut out on the drivers side I welded in some new stuff and epoxy coated before I undercoated it Hopefully it wont be back again.


Got the undercoatting done and a few other things. Work has been busy the last couple days so its slowed me down alot.




^^^^This is what I used to seal up the new welds. As the package says its for truck beds and its very tough, I sprayed it in my Dakota two years ago, no chips or cracks, I even hauled a 500lb wood stove and it didnt scratch. So I'm confident it will keep out the moisture/salt/pebbles ect. But I did miss something that would have helped alot, anybody see how??

Why the Hell didnt I bondo in these arches before I sprayed?? I didnt even think about it DUH!!!!!! too late now. I think the undercoat plus the quarters and guards I'll be making should seal everything up really good. But damn, Rookie move.

Getting all the old stuff out first was a messy job, but required if you want good adhesion, I think it turned out pretty good, I used 3 of the 4 bottles that came with the kit


Shot of the trimmed trunk seam which had to be cut for the new rear bumper and re-welded and sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
A test to see how the RS bumper cover will fit with the wider/taller front fenders. It stretches easy enough but it will need to be trimmed a bit...


looks kinda dumb with those skinny tires in there.


 

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Discussion Starter #99
its been awhile since I looked back on this thing. Awesome progress

I wish I had a shop like that damn
So do I. The shop I'm using is just empty hangar space at work used to do major repaint and long term projects on aircraft. Just happens its not being used right now so I'm in there. There are some sweet tools in there, two sheet metal benders, a sheet metal cutter, mig welder, and other stuff. Its not a real paint booth but thats where its gonna be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
My Son is back from the south country so I have been busy lately. But I did get some time yesterday in the afternoon. Planning on going back tomorrow.



Brought the car in and test fitted all the panels again, I drilled holes in the quarter panels through both at the same time then held the fiberglass quarters in place with clecos. I think this job may have been impossible for one person without these tools. I used the copper colored clecos for the whole job so far.

I want to get the fit just right before the bonding happens when its too late for the quarters anyway.



I kinda like this look, it looks modern but at the same time it looks like a Lancer :barf: hahahaha,

I got nuthin against them. Some are more pretty than others. I was thinking of filling in the lower front spoiler with Carbon fiber wrap to achive this look but I'm kinda on the fence about it. My overall goal is to have something that resembles a White 22B but I know there are alot of differences with the way I'm going. But nobody I know except on here has any idea what a 22B is or what it should look like.

Most of the panels fit pretty well, there are some areas that had to be cut away here and there.
1. At the rear tail lights
2. in the door jam area on the front fenders
3. the attachment points for the front fenders (all areas)
4. front and rear top and bottoms of the side skirts.

Easy to say the front fenders were not a "bolt on" out of the box, but at least Steve built the kit to give us some extra material to play with. Plus with how out of whack the front of my car is Im sure I would have a hell of a time installing something that has no flex, Anyone used Carbon fiber panels before? do they have any give?? this fiberglass has a little but not much.

I attached the rear panels over the rear quarters and there was a perfect gap to insert some fender guards in there.

take some long pieces of aircraft interior plastic shove it between the two quarter panels in the wheel wells, take out your heat gun and this is what comes out.

After I formed both sides (4 pieces) I took off the quarters, added some two part epoxy glue and stuck them in and put the fiberglass quarter back on to let them cure overnight. Im hoping this will provide the protection I want from the road grit. I'll seal them later with more epoxy and some silicone.

The rear quarters I got to fit pretty good, The drivers side fits a little low if you look at the seam running lengthwise along the car, I dont know if its my workmanship on the fender well or the car or that kit but it didnt fit exactly right. My first priority fitting the kit was make it fit properly so its not stressed in any one place too much. I could have lined it up better but it would have been very tight at the bottom and loose at the top. The passenger side fit awesome but no matter what I did that drivers side came out looking low, I hope I can play with the door height later to even it out a little. the drivers door was sitting a little high after my last paintjob. either waqy there are going to be some imperfections with how this kit is going to look.I'm just an amature at body work and I've got limited time space and funds so I'll have to live with those imperfections. I hope the paint comes out better than it did last time and I can look at the car from 6 feet away instead of 16 lol.

BTW that epoxy resin sticks like tree sap to the bedline material. It isnt going to seperate, ever. No I dont know thew name of the plastic I used for the fender guards, I do know its abundant at my work and it comes in large thin sheets and you could use it for alot of little things.


Oh yeah I got the gas caps that Stever recommended, for a fraction of the price.
Thanks ebay. Plus one extra.
 
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