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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #421
I bought a second oil galley bung from the closest dealership so I could add a second oil pressure sensor, and the oil feed line to the turbo.
first I T'ed off at the bung under the alternator and ran the line forward. That would have worked but that line is not where I wanted it. Couldn't get it to point backwards cause the stock sensor would have got in the way. A 45 degree fitting would have helped.

I moved the PCV lines out of the way and removed the plug in the rear of the oil galley.


Found out the sensor that came with my glowshift gauges wouldn't fit in the brass fittings for the oil line WTF? So I went out and got a 1/8 NPT thread die to cut the threads theway they were supposed to be cut. Tapered!


Installed the oil feed line on a 90 degree angle going under the throttle body.


The throttle body had to be removed to install the oil pressure sensor on top I sharpied the ground point black so I didn't confuse myself in the wiring after.

This setup should work pretty good for oil.

I also drained all the coolant to run the heater hose lines to the turbo.

Next I'm gonna pull the other cam cover and re-set the valve lash. Then put the covers back on and maybe run coolant lines and boost lines.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #422
Reset the valve lash today, .006 intake .008 exhaust. The lash was really loose on all the cylinders so maybe that was the cause of my extra loud valvetrain since the rebuild. Even after I set them all and rotated the crank a few times a few of them needed setting again. I don't think I had knack of it till half way through and there is deffinatley a technique to it. I started leaving the feeler gauge between the tappet and the valve stem and making it just tight enough so the feeler wouldn't fall out till the nut was tightened up then pulling the feeler out and then recheck it. Just loose enough to let the feeler through with pressure. Hopefull this will quiet down the engine. Its never been a quiet engine but it sounded like a diesel after the rebuild. I thought it may have been the delta cams but we'll see when I start it again.



Then I had enough time after supper to attempt to put the valve cover back with the oil return fitting installed. From under the car I got it easy so I pulled it out and applied some JB weld to the fitting. It's gotta cure overnight.
Slowly warming up here finally. Hopefully the last parts will be here next week.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #423
Got some more supporting Turbo mods done today,
Pulled the washer tank and installed the Vortech FMU under the fuel filter. I think its a great place to hide it and I'll only need about 8" of new hose.


Then I went to change plugs #5s to #7s while the tank was still out, Cylinder #4 was a Biatch! couldnt figure out why the socket wouldnt bite to pull the old plug out. Used a dental mirror and a flashlight to see in the hole, I couldnt see anything, so I used a flashlight for foucus and my phone and snapped this pic.

Scratched my head for a minute, is there a piece of metal in there?? WTF Where is the hex?.... wait for it.... Ah Frack!!! The plug retainer rubber from the inside of another socket.. So how do you get that out???
:curse:




I heated up the socket with my lighter as hot as I could make it then slammed that thing back in the hole as deep as it would go, twisted and twisted. Then pulled it out!


After the plugs I got most of the Boost/Vac lines run around to the FMU, the gauge, and the BOV. Got a little work done on the wideband install too inside the car.
 

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99'RS w/EJ205, 16'340i 13'Volt
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966 Posts
dont forget to lube/clean the bov piston with silicone grease spray if you havent already :)
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #425
dont forget to lube/clean the bov piston with silicone grease spray if you havent already :)
Thanks Man. I haven't yet, Gotta find some and pick it up.


Today I got the heat shielding done on the harnesses under the hood and some on the firewall.


I used 1" diameter fiberglass lined silicone hose to insulate the harnesses. It's pretty stretchable and easy to wrap around the wire bundles. It would have been nice to slip the hose over without having to cut it down the center but that would have been a f-ton of extra work. I used zip ties to secure it, stainless wire would have been better but I can do that later. Zip ties are easier to use too while holding the hose tight in the other hand.


This canister in the AC system had to be gently pushed backwards, the bracket holding it was in the way of the wastegate.



I also ran the coolant lines for the turbo. I used Goodyear 5/8" and 1/2" heater hose in series after the heater core. With a way higher diameter hose than the throttle body method and Pre-cooling from the heater core I figure its the better of the two cooling mods.


The black line coming off the crossover pipe I think is the Coolant Out, the blue line going to the steel hardline across the block and down into the water pump intake is the Coolant In. This mod only adds about 12"-18" of extra hose, but the restrictions at the banjo bolts in/out from the turbo jacket will add some resistance to flow. Some guys have done this mod in parallel with the heater lines too. Which should work, but in my head its less effective because fluid, electricity whatever will take the path of least resistance. And if you've got a restriction or lower flowing hose going to the turbo in Parallel you'll get coolant bypassing that way. In Series the coolant has no choice but to go through the turbo.


Coming out of the heater core going into the turbo.


I used brass adapters to go from 5/8" line down to 1/2" line right at the inlet/outlet of the turbos. 5/8" is just a bit too big to get a tight fit over the turbo fittings.



Also got the boost lines run around to the FMU and the boost gauge and got the Wideband gauge put in.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #428
Thanks man,
Ive got that repair manual too. Wiring diagrams confuse me lol, in the above diagram the front sensor has four wires but on the sensor off my car its got three. So? IDK
The diagram in the second link I posted shows three wires and the black wire is the signal 0-1V. I was gonna splice at the sensor since I was already working in that area and its easy to get at right now.

I think Ill try the black wire and see what happens, got to get a new mid pipe on the car first though.
 

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The subaru of many acronyms
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seems like in the most general of wiring black should be the ground, id disconnect the 02 sensor, turn the car on and take a multimeter to the car side of the pigtail to detirmine what ground, power, and signal are.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #430
TURBO INSTALL DAY!

So those guys who have been watching my journal may know I've been planning to install a TD04 from a WRX for quite some time, that day finally came. I had to do my homework on this one, there are some great threads on here about NA -> FI which I read over and over again. I also bought a book off Amazon about the subject and read it cover to cover. This is my first adventure into Boost and i've learned alot.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t3541-official-i-want-turbo-my-2-5-thread.html

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t139473-boosting-1990-2002-usdm-subarus-chronological-guide.html

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t160188-diy-turbo-ej25d.html



Main parts I used:
TD04L from a WRX
TMIC from a 05-07 WRX
Subachad Up/Down pipes (easy bolt on plumbing)
Kinugawa adjustable Wastegate currently on 5psi spring also got a 7 psi
Walbro 255 Fuel pump.
GFB Stealth BOV
Vortech RRFPR @ 6:1
NGK BKR7E11 spark plugs.
2.5" High flow cat Section, dont remember the brand
Glow Shift Wideband, Oil pressure, Boost/Vac Gauges
Subaru OEM oil galley bung (small but important)


Various other non specific parts were sourced as needed,
Heat blanket for turbo plus wire protective hose
Silicone adapters, elbows, couplers.
1/2" & 5/8" hoses/clamps
Oil feed kit, ect ect ect.

Many guys go with a swap and thats great. The main reason I didnt go that way is because I like to learn how engines work and doing things myself. Also its very expensive and long waits to get components shipped up here and I can do the reading while I assemble parts. A NA engine on boost may not be the most reliable setup in the end but I have had my hands in the guts of everything and that means its all on me. Also I loathe wiring and using the SOHC heads and ECU will save me from ripping out the dash and the main harness to do a merge. If I blow the 253, after previously rebuilding it myself I can do it again with stronger internals (Already sourcing parts lol)

The car has been sitting in the garage most of the winter and hasnt moved for over a month. After I got the Up/down pipes I put the car on ramps and pulled the NA Cat pipe to test fit all the components Ive gathered. There were some problems with fitment, mainly on the 02-04 WRX TMIC sitting high on the AC Pipe across the back and hitting the STI strut bar. So it had to go, I got a 05-07 TMIC and as everyone says they fit wayyy better. After that it mainly been just prepping the parts for the install and gathering miscellaneous parts that I needed to complete the install.

One goal I had for this was minimal wiring and so far all Ive had to contend with is some gauge installs. Doing a full on harness merge gives me nightmares, even installing a piggyback system is enough to scare me, mostly because I dont understand wiring, pinouts. I wanted to make some extra power with the mechanical components I already had plus a few more. I need to do more homework on wiring before I attempt a swap or a piggyback yet. but thats for later.


Car has been sitting like this for weeks test fitting parts. Oil and coolant were recently drained for the Oil pan tap but I went with the Valve cover tap instead


First part of the install was to remove the Stock Cat section

Removed the Oxygen sensors


Header flange cleaned up as much as possible.


new 2" gasket installed


Here is the space between the Subachad Up pipe and the FR drive axle. There is enough clearance but you have to make sure you angle the up pipe correctly before you tighten down the flange bolts.


Obviously I'm a believer in header wrap, I want to keep the heat in the exhaust system and off the other components under the hood.

I also after giving the firewall a good cleaning with alcohol I added some thermal insulation before installing the up pipe.

The Up pipe installed with gasket waiting for the Turbo.



This is the heart of the project. A used TD04L, a little small for a 2.5L engine but since I dont plan on running High boost anyway this thing should spool quickly and it was a good deal. Something I can learn on before spending more money down the road. Its got a Kinugawa wastegate actuator which is easy to swap springs in and out of for desired boost level. I got a 5 and 7 PSI springs. Gonna start with the 5.
since the Turbo needed to be clocked the wastegate had to be mounted with only a single bolt but it seems to actuate well. I used 5/8" OIL hose to make the oil return line, I had lots of heater hose but I have seen that stuff swell up when its used with oil. Enough to give a turbo a stroke lol



Turbo bolted onto the Up pipe and Down pipe installed, this was a pretty tight spot to get a wrench in but after a while I got all the bolts torqued down



The orientation of the Down pipe heading to the back of the car, the flange actually touches the cross member but its just lightly touching it, no pressure between the two. From here I will go back to a 2.5" cat with the factory oxygen sensors re-installed for a happy ECU, and then out to the muffler.


coolant lines installed onto the turbo, I used the factory hardlines going into short 1/2" hoses coupled onto 5/8" heater hoses in series with the heater core.




Oil pressure line installed with a banjo fitting. No Heat blanket till its been heat cycled to check for leaks


The 05-07 TMIC sits so much nicer on top of the AC line and it lets the Crossbar sit in there too. I think if I eliminated the AC line, (so no Air) trimmed the Throttle body a little and chucked the strut tower bar, the 02-04 TMIC would have fit in there. I like the way it looks but for all those concessions I decided to get a 05-07, not as pretty but does the job better. I straightend all the bent fins and gave it a fresh coat of high heat aluminum paint to make it look shiny anyway.

While I had the valve covers off I did a valve lash setting and repaired a broken cam cover with some JB weld.



Heres the Wideband going in

The sensor in the Downpipe.
BTW Im so glad i got Subachad's up/down pipes. This made the install Soooo easy. They are great quality and fit very very well. Even the wideband bung was placed in the perfect spot. The only thing i would have liked more, (for upgradability sake) is a bell mouth collector at the down pipe flange. I have seen gains from a bell mouth down pipe, however on my setup hahaha


Wideband wire harness goes across the top of the trans and into the car under the brake booster.


This is where I mounted the Wideband control module. I wanted it in an easy to reach place that wasn't already crowded with wires. Used the same power connections as the rest of my gauges and my headunit. Got it all soldered in with heat shrink, no twisties and black tape here.




Everything worked good for the wideband install.



This is how she sits now, everything tightened down, boost lines run, valve covers back on, and fluids back in. The only thing Im missing is the silicone elbow from the Turbo to the Intercooler. I ordered it two weeks ago after I clocked the turbo and its still not here. Its basically ready to start but untill I can get the air going through the MAF Id rather wait. I know I'll get some CELs with no Cat and no O2 sensors but Id rather just drive it right to the exhaust shop after its going smoothly and I can watch the AF ratios. The intake took some work to make it fit over the Power steering lines but I found a way to make it fit.



I also bought some thick Clear tubing for new Vac hoses. I saw the stuff for like $0.50/foot and since I dont have a catch can I can see right away if there is alot of blow by and I'll need a catch can or not. I also fabbed a drain under the intake pipe. I have a feeling this stuff could melt but its still pretty cold out right now and I wont be working the car for its first few runs anyway. I have plenty of hose to make a permanent vac hose setup once it starts to get warm again or if the hose starts to deteriorate.


More updates when I get it running, hopefully the elbow is here tomorrow. I dont know if I can wait all weekend to hear it running again.
 

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Nice job on all of it!

I like the way you're doing it hands on. I too feel that is the best way for me to do things-that way if there are ever any issues, you have a working knowledge of whats going on.

Unless I missed it, what did you use for the intake 90* right off of the turbo before the aluminum section? Looks like 2 silicone adapters and a piece of ???

Also curious why you went 6:1 instead of 8:1 on the rrfpr?

Can't wait for a run report!
 

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2001 D2 A8L
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Love the progress flyboy! I haven't looked at your journal since before all the turbo stuff. It was crazy reading back through the last few pages and remembering how I just went through all the same stuff only 6 months ago. From clocking the turbo to tucking the A/C line under the dogbone (not sure you did that).

I am here to tell you that it is all worth it! The last 6 months have been the best driving months I've ever had with my car. It is so much fun getting into boost and feeling that rush of power. I am hoping to install a piggyback soon. I will likely be going with the Perfect Power SMT6 as that is what is cheap and available to me. It scares me a little but I'm ready for more.

Can't wait to hear your impressions after your first drive!

Oh and I definitely recommend a catch can. I use one of the really cheap ones off Ebay and it works great. I just made sure to mount it kind of low so that the fluid it catches won't easily be sucked back into the intake tract. I've had my intercooler off a couple of times and noticed almost no oil in the outlet.
 

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Hey flyboy, im in the middle of turboing my 99 legacy. Just a couple questions. What did you do with the wireharneses bolted to the passenger side top of the bell housing? They are a little too close for comfort heat wise for me. Also did you have to move your power steering lines? Mine are almost touching the up pipe.

Nice car mate.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #436
Thanks George. I'm glad youre still watching the thread, how are your new head lights working out?

almost there! if all else fails, pvc pipe and duct tape. lol
I waited till 4pm friday for the elbow to show in the mail but it didnt, so I took your advice and got a small section of silicone hose and another PVC elbow and jimmy rigged a temporary fix. The car wouldn't stay running till I did. but now it idles nicely. I didnt want to go all weekend or longer without hearing that turbo whistling!! lol.

Nice job on all of it!
I like the way you're doing it hands on. I too feel that is the best way for me to do things-that way if there are ever any issues, you have a working knowledge of whats going on.
Unless I missed it, what did you use for the intake 90* right off of the turbo before the aluminum section? Looks like 2 silicone adapters and a piece of ??? Also curious why you went 6:1 instead of 8:1 on the rrfpr?
Can't wait for a run report!
Thanks! I used a 2" PVC elbow to go into the Turbo, its not the ideal intake setup I would like but it works for now. Placing that MAF sensor close to its factory location with the parts I have was tricky. I dont like where the filter is sitting either so I will probably go back and figure something else out.
I went with a 6:1 FMU ratio for a simple reason MAX FUEL PRESSURE. If I want to run up to 7-8 PSI I need to stay under 100PSI with a safety margin so the injectors wont look up. Stock fuel pressure I understand is 42 PSI
(boost X ratio + 42 = must be < 100).
So
(8PSI X 6:1 + 42 = 90 < 100)
(8PSI X 8:1 + 42 = 106 > 100)
My car is MAF and it seems most guys with this type of engine do well at 6:1
I dont know how guys with MAP engines get away with a 12:1 ratio.
All that said I havent run the car on boost yet and I dont know what the wideband is gonna say. With high compression and lousy fuel choice up here I'm gonna aim for 11:1 AFRs in boost. If the Wideband says Im way off I may have to get a different disc for the FMU but 6:1 was my best guess going in. So stay turned and we'll see after I get some highway time.


Love the progress flyboy! I haven't looked at your journal since before all the turbo stuff. It was crazy reading back through the last few pages and remembering how I just went through all the same stuff only 6 months ago. From clocking the turbo to tucking the A/C line under the dogbone (not sure you did that).
I am here to tell you that it is all worth it! The last 6 months have been the best driving months I've ever had with my car. It is so much fun getting into boost and feeling that rush of power. I am hoping to install a piggyback soon. I will likely be going with the Perfect Power SMT6 as that is what is cheap and available to me. It scares me a little but I'm ready for more.
Can't wait to hear your impressions after your first drive!
Oh and I definitely recommend a catch can. I use one of the really cheap ones off Ebay and it works great. I just made sure to mount it kind of low so that the fluid it catches won't easily be sucked back into the intake tract. I've had my intercooler off a couple of times and noticed almost no oil in the outlet.
I CANT WAIT to take it for a drive!! I've got a feeling I'm gonna be very happy with the power. I may end up getting a catch can yeah, the car has only idled in the driveway so far but no oil coming up the vac hoses yet that I can see. I did tuck the AC line under its original mount so it moved down roughly an inch but I didnt go so far as to tuck it right under the dogbone. I found enough clearance for the top mount by just tucking it under the factory mounting point.

Hey flyboy, im in the middle of turboing my 99 legacy. Just a couple questions. What did you do with the wireharneses bolted to the passenger side top of the bell housing? They are a little too close for comfort heat wise for me. Also did you have to move your power steering lines? Mine are almost touching the up pipe.
Nice car mate.
Tim
Thanks, if you look back at the previous page you'll see I wrapped the wire harnesses in a 1" fiberglass lined silicone hose and then zip tied them up and away from the turbo. I have run up the car to operating temp and I think the wires are pretty well insulated this way. My power steering lines get in the way of the turbo inlet and I guess they do go a little close to the up pipe but I never thought they would get too hot maybe I should go take another look.




So yeah the car is running again, loud as hell but its running. I brought it up to temp and the paint on the new pipes started smoking. I got the idle sorted out again with ECU explorer. Topped up the radiator once it heat cycled and checked all around for leaks but couldn't find any. I shortened the oil return line off the turbo cause it seemed the extra inch or so was flattening the line around the curve, there was oil inside the return line so thats good! The oil pressure started around 80psi at start and slowly came down as the car warmed up to about 12 PSI before I shut it down which is right where I want it. The wideband is doing its job too but with the dump only a foot ofter the sensor I dont trust the readings because its reading very very lean.

So next week or whenever the elbow shows up I can take it for a drive and get a new catted mid pipe put on!! then I can see what all this work was good for.
 

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Awesome! I just replaced hydraulic lash adjusters yesterday and for some reason my wideband stopped working. That is frustrating since my ecu is now relearning and has a tendency to run lean. Maybe yours is just learning and will be richer soon.

You won't likely see anything in the pcv lines until you get into boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #439
Quick update:
I got the elbow to connect the turbo to the Intercooler today. A bit of trimming made it fit, ran the car up to see how it felt and if I could make the BOV open, Nope lol. But I did make alot of Noise!!! haha Covering day shift all week but if I dont get called tomorrow I'll go see where I can get the exhaust buttoned up. I also spotted a couple of wires under the intercooler that need to get some heat protection so I'm gonna try a second time to install the Turbo blanket before I take it on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #440
:banana::banana::banana:First Drive On Boost :banana::banana::banana:

I just got the Prez outta the shop for the exhaust work. Took the long way home lol. First impressions when I started it, nice and quiet exhaust note, not raspy or too loud. Just a little bit of a buzz in a lower tone. Approached the highway and just babied it for 3 miles or so to watch the AFR, cruising at 100kms it was bouncing a little but when its steady it holds right around stoich. 14.5-.6. On the throttle it goes down into the 12s and lower. Oil pressure is spot on around 30psi cruising 12psi at idle.

The good
I turned the corner in town and headed west onto a long straight deserted highway, then I opened it up. First impressions hitting boost it feels much much quicker! Like its clawing for grip instead of just accelerating. The boost gauge is getting up to about 4 which is pretty low I know but thats where I wanted to see it for a little while, theres a "5" psi spring in the wastegate and Ive got a "7" in my toolbox. Nice and smooth acceleration, no hicups, no bogging or hesitation it just pulls. The boost gauge is nice and steady around 4 all the way up to about 6000 revs, I didnt take it any higher. It feels like well, like its turbo'd in all the gears! From 100kms to 160kms feels much much quicker. During shifts the BOV lets out a nice quiet little chirp chirp that sounds alot like the videos of Mc Crae's car on youtube. Its hard to watch all the gauges simultaneously and I've never run a wideband before but when I let off it runs right into max lean, it makes sense to me but is that normal? I can only get 91 octane in this place so I'm gonna keep adding octane booster till Im comfortable its not getting any knock. Tomorrow maybe Im gonna hook up the laptop and do some pulls while logging to look for any knock events and watch the timing. Oh yeah in boost the AFR is reading around 11:1. Thats pretty close to good I think. Just rich enough but not going under the scale to depths I cant see. I think the 6:1 RRFPR was the right choice so far. I'll pull the plugs after a couple weeks and give them a look.

The Bad
One problem I've discovered so far. The down pipe flange is extremely close to the trans cross member. It knocks around a little on deceleration and on engine start and engine shutdown it down right kicks that cross member. I saw this on the mock up and the guys at the shop warned me about it cause they didnt want to hack up the down pipe. I'm gonna try to file off the corner of the flange where its hitting. If that works then good but I got a feeling some solid engine mounts may be required.

But over all I'm very happy I went ahead with this!!

I plan to take some videos and post them up when I'm feeling better. Still battling that cold that struck me almost two weeks ago.
 
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