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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #281
What I'm curious about is I adjusted the lash while all the valves were completely closed. Not nessisarily at TDC but the cam lobes were not against any of the lifters. So if this is how I adjusted them when the lobe is away from the rocker then the valves should be making complete contact with the face and make a good seal. I still don't know what having the Piston at TDC has anything to do with setting valve lash except that you know the valves are closed at TDC. So what's the difference if you find that before you install the heads? Once I put the cams in they were rotated in a way that all the valves were closed. So why is this a problem for setting the lash this way?
I'm no mechanic, just an amature.
My rebuild has 3300 kms on it now with no issues except a horrible idle issue that has plagued these cams.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #284
Ditch the ZZR and get a 600rr. You'll like it much much more.

-TC
Nope, I bought the Kawi brand new and I'm very happy with it. In a few years Ill be upgrading to a ZX-10R for my next bike. I never liked the Honda crotch rockets except the RC-51 and the 1100XX.
 

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Bugeye Sedan
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Great work so far!!!
Love the widebody and attention to detail.

You probably already know this but be careful with running the lash to loose.
It doesn't give the valve enough contact with the head to shed heat.
I'd set that lash sooner than later.
What I'm curious about is I adjusted the lash while all the valves were completely closed. Not nessisarily at TDC but the cam lobes were not against any of the lifters. So if this is how I adjusted them when the lobe is away from the rocker then the valves should be making complete contact with the face and make a good seal. I still don't know what having the Piston at TDC has anything to do with setting valve lash except that you know the valves are closed at TDC. So what's the difference if you find that before you install the heads? Once I put the cams in they were rotated in a way that all the valves were closed. So why is this a problem for setting the lash this way?
I'm no mechanic, just an amature.
My rebuild has 3300 kms on it now with no issues except a horrible idle issue that has plagued these cams.

I just realized I posted that info backwards.

If you run it too tight the valves don't get enough contact with the valve seat to shed heat.

I don't pay attention to TDC when setting valve lash.
I just make sure the valves are not open and the lobes are not placing pressure when taking measurements.
Also make sure the motor is in its normal orientation when setting valve lash and don't bother setting the lash until the heads are torqued on.
I found the lash changed when I torqued the heads on versus setting lash on the bench.
I also found the lash changed if I turned the motor on its side in an attempt to make checking and setting it easier.

During the course of setting lash I probably removed and re-torqued the cams 30 times. But I'm a perfectionist.

Now there may be some that will call BS.
I checked my readings dozens of times for my most recent motor rebuild and I can indeed make these claims with certainty.
 

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Discussion Starter #286
Back from a 6000 km road trip with the car. I could have taken the truck but with an ounce of faith I decided to take the impreza and break in the motor.

The good:
Highway cruising was great, the car ran like a dream all the way to the west coast of BC and back to northern Alberta. It has all the power it had before and doesn't have a black sooty tail pipe like it used to and it only used a little oil during the trip, about 3/4 L. As I was getting close to home on the return trip I took it up to max speed a couple times. 197km/h (123 mph) on my GPS. Not bad. The power is great from about 3200 rmp till 5500 rpm where it flat lines.

The Bad:
Driving into the stop and go traffic in Kelowna with all the traffic lights it was nerve wracking. Every light I was freaked it was going to stall out. It will idle fine for a bit then kick down and hover right above the stall, the oil pressure light would flicker on and off. Then the check engine light will start to flash on and off. I had to keep my foot gently on the throttle to keep the revs up at almost every light. Kept getting miss-fire codes on all 4 cylinders and crank case filter restriction codes through the entire trip. The clutch also gave me some trouble just before the return trip. It seems to just randomly lose presure..?? I bled it out and topped it up before I came back but it did it again half way home. Still has enough pressure to change gears but the feeling almost completely goes loose untill it hits the floor where I can change gears. I cant find any leaks and there should be no air in the system so Im stumped on it.

I washed it good and changed the oil to 5-30 synthetic yesterday. There was some definite glitter in the oil that came out. Nothing I could see on the dipstick and the magnetic drain plug only had a little metallic sludge on it. I've never rebuilt an engine before so I hope a little metal in the first oil change is normal. I guess the next change will tell the real story. Driving into civilization I got numerous compliments on the car. People in parking lots and at the gas stations coming right up and talking to me about it.

Sadly didnt get any pics taken with the Girlfriend and the car. There was just too much going on and no privacy away from the kids and all the family. But I loved driving it on the winding BC roads and up the switchback gravel to my acreage!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #287
I just realized I posted that info backwards.

If you run it too tight the valves don't get enough contact with the valve seat to shed heat.

I don't pay attention to TDC when setting valve lash.
I just make sure the valves are not open and the lobes are not placing pressure when taking measurements.
Also make sure the motor is in its normal orientation when setting valve lash and don't bother setting the lash until the heads are torqued on.
I found the lash changed when I torqued the heads on versus setting lash on the bench.
I also found the lash changed if I turned the motor on its side in an attempt to make checking and setting it easier.

During the course of setting lash I probably removed and re-torqued the cams 30 times. But I'm a perfectionist.

Now there may be some that will call BS.
I checked my readings dozens of times for my most recent motor rebuild and I can indeed make these claims with certainty.
Thanks for the great info man! Im gonna check the lash here again real soon. While I am pretty OCD about my car too if everything looks okay and runs okay I'm usually pretty happy. Why would you remove the cams to check the lash? Do you have a DOHC motor? Ive got an EJ253 so I only need a feeler gauge, 10mm wrench and a flathead.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #289
Boys,
Whats a great computer thingy to go along with

An EJ257 shortblock
EJ253 heads - already running
TD04 or bigger Turbo - purchased
WRX TMIC intercooler - purchased
WRX top feed injectors
255 walbro pump - installed
a 3" exhaust?

Assuming I've never done anything Turbo or tuning related before, and I've got absolutely no one for help and no tuning shop within 500 miles.
I want something that will be easy to install and a simple as a speak and spell to make the engine run reliably if it exists.

should I look at stand alones or a piggy back??
the only thing that truly scares me about cars is wiring diagrams.

note: never doing something before and having zero help never stopped me before (see the past 29 pages) lol.

any advise on my next phase is appreciated
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #292
Your project gives me hope that if your car can look this great, mine can too! Gonna be stealing some ideas from ya if you don't mind!
Lol which ones? It's weird how the two cars were in near the same condition when we got them. That's what struck me anyway. Mine has been a Mountain of work but I finally got to really enjoy it this summer two years later. Hope your new project turns out just as you want it to.
 

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Discussion Starter #294
It was well worth the price. Unless you do the install yourself the cost to get it on is more than the cost of the kit by a lot.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #295
Well the MAF bug has stricken my 99 once again.. at least it runs in limp mode with the thing unplugged this time. This is the second MAF to go in my car in as many years. I'm thinking of buying 2 this time just to have a spare in the car. Same time of year, same weather (cool and wet) thinking about switching air filter types. I cant believe it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #296 (Edited)
I purchased a new MAF sensor and a new AEM dry flo intake filter. Hoping a better quality filter will cure the issue. Time will tell. I also picked up three gauges for the future Turbo build. Glow shift gauges (which yes are cheap) but they will go with the stock gauges nicely and give me alot more info than I currently get.
I got the three gauge A pillar pod, narrowband AFR (wideband will come around the install time) Oil pressure, and Boost/Vac.
Also purchased a oil feed line for the Turbo. I want to spend more money on parts but still doing lots of research on DIY installs. I found out Subachad still makes up/down pipes for the NA imprezas! Those will be my next item I'm sure. The thing that scares me the most is the engine management aspect. Looking at a couple piggyback systems and how they work. I've got no tuning shop anywhere close to here so it might be all up to me like always to get er done.
 

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Discussion Starter #298
It's called a Dry Flo..? Not an oiled filter like K&Ns. I don't know if that's what has been wrecking my MAFs but I certainly will take the second one going as a sign I need to do something. Or face being stranded somewhere.
 
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