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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #241
I'm looking to get a crawford/delicious tuning JEC reflash for the 2.5. Anybody have any experience with these they want to share? Are they worth it the $350?? I know from experience my Superchips programmer for my Dakota 4.7 was about the same price and it has been usefull but mostly for tire size changes code reading/clearing and speed limiter oh yes the shifting got better too. But overall power was almost un-noticeable. I know it's like comparing apples to oranges since a reflash is totally different but it's supposed to make the engine peppier. Any reviews? I'm reading through the Delicious tuning thread also.

Yeah bought an STI tower bar today! cross that off the list. I know it's time to finally buy something when I've looked at it for the 100th time. Lol. A rear sway bar would probably help the handling way more but they are pretty expensive too. That'll be my next purchase.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #242
Got the block halves and pistons form Neverlift, (thanks Dude) I wasted no time cleaning it up and getting it prepped for more miles

Once again I used gas then Spray Nine to clean up the block. this method takes alot of elbow grease but when theres no hot tank or block cleaner to take it too its my only option. Had I the choice I'd get it blasted for a new finish as well but I'm going to paint it with engine paint before it gets installed anyway.

I used a 220 grit tripod deglazing stone to score the cylinders with fresh cross hatching. These cylinders were in ok shape to my untrained eye but I figured I would put a fresh finish on them just in case as it was a used block with 60,000 miles or so on it. The result I think was pretty good. I used some old engine oil in a squirt bottle for lube and my drill did the work. I found that to get a good 45 degree cross hatch I needed to be constantly reaming that drill in and out (Giggity) of the cylinder at a pretty good pace with not too many revs on the drill. I just kept checking the pattern till I found a pace that worked for me and tried to keep it as steady as I could. A did roughly about 5 minutes a cylinder and it gave a nice roughed up fininsh. I hope this helps the new rings seal up good.


I think it turned out pretty well.



Got the new ACL bearings just in time..





Thanks to Brydon and the others who have posted rebuild thread on here, it has helped me alot as a first timer.

Im not gonna repaet everything he said in his awesome write up but, the cleaner everything is the easier this is.
Next waiting for rings to install pistons!!
 

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i have the JEC reflash and it made good difference, in my opinion worth the money, it also made the car feel like it operated alot smoother. gives the car a bit more power up in the revs. just dont expect anything astronomical, but you can indeed feel a difference
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #246
What stage re-flash did you get and mods have you done?

I'm looking to go Turbo with either an AVO kit or DIY after I get a built block. This one (I hope) is just gonna be a temporary/standby block. Should have the last parts here soon. Rings and gaskets havent made it yet. Can wait to get this thing running!
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #247
Still waiting on the engine parts so I thought I would tackle the nasty ass original carpet in the Impreza.

Ripped out the seats ans console, done this twice already now so I'm almost a pro at it by now. The factory carpet has had the life beaten out of it long before I got the car, its been on my list for a while. I got some mass backed OEM grey from Zealous interiors a while back, its been relaxing on the roof of my office for a while waiting to go in. Andrew sent me some kick ass carpet! Thick and plush!!

Shot of the pedal area with the old stuff.


with the seats removed


This old stuff was paper thin, light is good!, but this is one area I dont mind carrying some extra weight. I could see right through the other side when it was pulled out.



cleaned everything underneath and then added some insulation foil/foam to get some extra road noise quietness. Oh yeah and I moved the battery to the trunk while I'm at this since I have everything out anyway. Using a 200 amp circuit breaker at the battery box. I've already got 4 gauge welding cable running to the old location that was used to power my amp but now it will run up front to power the starter and the fuse and relay boxes.
 

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2001 D2 A8L
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How did you measure bearing clearances? Did you use plastigauge? What did you use as your sealant between the case halves?

It looks like you know what you are doing man, can't wait to see how this goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #249
I used Permatex ultra grey to seal the block halves, I thinks its almost exactly the same as the fujibond, plus its everywhere up here. I almost used ultra black but everyone says the grey stuff will do. We'll see.


:sd:
As for the bearing clearances..................... I didnt check them.

I checked all the crank and rod journals and found them to be within spec so I purchased some standard size ACL bearings and I'm hoping the engine will last until I get a TWE block. I saw a couple write ups using plastigauges, the one by Brydon being my EJ go-to thread. The journals were all within spec as best I could measure them and there is no machine shop up here to grind my crank if it were out so I figured I could either use my crank with standard bearings or buy a new crank and use standard bearings. So I didnt check the bearing clearances. Lazy move I know, I guess I'll find out if it was a bad move later. I did check the thrust clearance!! lol.

Either way I hope this will only be a temporary engine. I havent heard from Tom in ages and I wanna take my car on a summer road trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #251
got some more work done on the carpet install.
I used a sharp box cutters knife and some heavy duty scissors to make all the cuts

The new carpet fit in pretty good, it came with alot of extra material compared to the old stuff so there should be no worries about gaps or blank spots.
I started by cutting a line from the front down to approximately half way to where the gear shift and hand brake are located leaving a bridge in between. One trick to this is to lay the old stuff inside the new stuff and make some marks with a sharpie giving some extra room around holes so you dont take out too much before you put it in. I didnt make any bolt or mounting holes like this cause you cant be sure youve got everything line up perfectly by just using the old carpet. Its better to lay the carpet in the car with the bolts already in their respective places so you can feel where they are under the carpet and make your cuts from on top so the bolt hole will be perfectly lined up.

After that I laid it in and test fitted for length and width. It was a good 6 inches too wide for the tub of the interior on either side so I trimmed 5 inches off roughly, this made it easier to fit around the curves and humps in the car.


One thing about the mass backed carpet is that its stiffer than the regular carpet making it harder to fit around corners. That said I highly recommend it anyway since the thinner stuff tends to bunch up and wrinkle easier in the corners because its more like trying to shove a piece of paper in a corner without folding it vs trying to shove a piece of actual house carpet into the same corner. The mass backed stuff is way thicker so it resists wrinkling and bunching

Here are two comparisons of the two materials
Zealous Interiors Mass Back vs OEM

See how thick the new stuff is!!! NICE!!!! I have a feeling it will be a few decibels quieter in the cabin with this stuff in there.


After I had the basic width figured out and the carpet was centered in the car over the tranny hump I cut the remaining material out to get the mounting points for the center armrest and console and then installed it. It will make it easier to start cutting holes and mounting from the center and work your way out than start from one corner or work at it randomly. Otherwise you could have a major fitment issue when you realize something wasnt lined up properly to begin with. Or you forget something like half your seat mounting holes D'oh!!


I did the drivers side first after the center was done.
One thing I found was no matter how I tried to shape it I couldnt get a fold out of the middle of the door runner on each side. The new stuff simply didnt have enough give to form around the T coming from the front seat mounting. Also I left alot of material up under the pedals but the gas pedal was rubbing and getting stuck along the bottom. I scratched my head for a few minutes and removed the pedal. there wasnt enough width on the drivers side to comfortably fill the foot well enough so the pedal wouldnt rub. This could have been an error in my install, maybe the carpet wasnt pulled far enough forward and thats why it covered so much extra at the rear, but it was lined up well over the seat mounts Or maybe I made an error cutting the first center section out. But either way the olny thing I could do to keep the pedal from rubbing was to take it out and bend it up closer to the drivers seat making it even with the brake and clutch pedals. This gave me extra travel in the gas pedal before it reached the floor and started to rub, and after sitting in it I could easily "floor" the gas pedal with the seat full back. something I couldn't do comfortably before.



I also ditched the clunky factory trunk release handle for a custom unit. I would have had to cut a large section of carpet out to re-install this thing and I always hated how much it was a PITA to get at with a socket. I simply cut a little slit in the carpet and put a zip tie around the cable. Used my key chain, presto instant Trunk release.


Heres a shot from outside



a closer pic of the trouble spot along the door way. I made a single cut down toward the seat rail and then cut out the SOME of the excess material underneath so it would lay a little flatter, dont try to make them but up or it will probably result in a gap once everything settles in


In the back seat there was a little wrinkling also but I think with some time, vibration and gravity it may smooth out a little more. Im very happy


Sorry I didnt get any pics of the under heat heater vents but they were pretty simple. I just made a cut along the top of each of the 4 vents a little longer than each then made 2 cuts down to the floor on each side of the 4 previous cuts. This made a flap to tuck underneath each of the vents and let the air out.

I also didnt install any of the plastic clips from the old carpet or any velcro to keep it secured along the doors. I wanted to give it all time to shake down and settle out before I do that. But if I take the seats out again I'll take a pic if I remember. I've done this before in my Beretta Z26 (RIP) and it was better using the mass backed stuff. Not too terribly hard for anyone who has even a little skill. It doesn't smell like dank ass carpet in my car anymore and it looks great but now "Fuck take your shoes off!! God!":lol:
Before

After
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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i absolutely LOVE that you used a remove before flight tag for the trunk pull. i've got some of the ones from my AF days laying around that i just may have to copy this idea with.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #253
i absolutely LOVE that you used a remove before flight tag for the trunk pull. i've got some of the ones from my AF days laying around that i just may have to copy this idea with.
Yeah it was a spare Keychain I had layin around. I thought about fitting a plastic T handle or something cause I usually like things to look nice and factory. But using the long red sucker seemed like an easy fix and it adds a touch of aviation to the car. Seeing as thats what's paying for it, it seemed fitting. How long were you in the AirForce? What was your role? I never joined up with the Canadian Forces but it was always a goal of mine to fly jets. I think it's honorable to serve also.
 

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Baby❤Daddy
98L Wagon
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was in for 4 years. stations in mostly canada...ie: North Dakota. i was a nuclear maintnenance tech on the mk12a reentry vehicles. the nuclear package on minutemen ICBM's.
 

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Whoa. Just read through the ENTIRE journal. Haha a lot of time (patience) in to this car. I respect how well you've done everything and how much time you've taken to make sure everything works/fits well.

I'm happy to see that the car will be getting a more deserving engine for the body. I just feel a car that looks that beastly should run and drive just as well. The only thing I would change is the wheels (But I'm a huge JDM brandwhore) and lower it more. But as you stated, road conditions aren't ideal and we aren't all "hellaflush" kids like I am. Haha

Great job! A lot of dedication and a great learning curve, I'm happy that you ended up with this car as opposed to a crusher.
 

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Discussion Starter #257
Thanks guys, alot of work yeah but I need a hobby where I live. I wish I could lower it another 1" but yeah the shitty roads will destroy it and that wouldnt be cool. What rims are you running IMIRD? I wanted something that resembled the 22Bs gold BBS 17"s but they had to be 1. affordable and 2. 18" cause the wheel wells are Monsterous on the Aerosim kit. So I went with the Drag 34s in 18"s I love the forged high end wheels but to stay in budget and afford an engine I had to get cheaper knock offs.
 

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Discussion Starter #258
Hopefully the last engine parts will be here this week and I can finally make this thing semi-reliable again.

Bought a TMIC and TD-04 from another member to get me started in the Boosted world. Maybe next year that will be my project, for the rest of 2013 it will stay NA.

Heres the pics from the battery relocation. Not much to explain, it is a pretty easy project anyone can do. I used welding cable from the engine bay back along the drivers door under the back seat and into the trunk. Used a 200 amp 12V circuit breaker at the battery box for the main CB, the Cap and Amp are on a separate 80 amp CB (top). The battery box is right behind the rear seat secured with short SS screws and washers inside the box and tied with zip ties to that bar running across the trunk. I had to trim the ends of the bar 1/2" or so and then rebolt it to the rear of the seat back wall otherwise the top of the battery box jammed to far into the seat back. Bought several 4 gauge copper connectors and a multiple connector power block to split the power up under the hood. Haven't run the starter positive wire yet but I guess I could while theres no engine. Now I've got a master switch in the form of that fuse breaker on the battery box. 200 amps should be enough for starting the car if not I can jumper the circuit breaker till I get a bigger CB. Till I try to start the car I wont know.
I've been looking everywhere for a yellowtop optima style battery but seems nobody sells em in Canada. not even Crappy tire. I may have to order one direct from optima.

Oh yes and with the new cap wired in and the battery so close to the amp the Sub pounds like it never did before.







Eats up alot of trunk space but I dont intend to carry alot of junk. Maybe some groceries or a couple suitcases thats it, my workhorse is my Dakota Quad Cab. With HIDs on the Headlights and the Fogs it was a wiring mess at the stock location. I understand why manufactures put batteries there in 99% of cars but in terms of chassis balance and handling what a horrible place to throw 40lbs.

Heres some love for my truck. I've put alot of hard miles on it and its never let me down. Since I got the Impreza Ive almost ignored it but I have done Mopar HO cams and a new Magnaflow exhaust last year. Everyone up here drives lifted diesel 4x4s. This thing is a pipsqueak compared to those but its paid for and it does what I need it to. Dodge made a great truck in the Dakota V8.


 

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Discussion Starter #259
Got the last of the engine parts in plus some new door seals. The rings are on the pistons. Checked the gaps and they all looked good. Installed them and then got the pistons in. Everything went good and It spins nicely.

Any tips for the first start? Should I use straight water in the rad till its had a few heat cycles? What RPM is best for these engines? I've read alot of various engine rebuild tips where guys are going up to 2000 rpm. Is that recommended? I'm gonna leave the timing belt cover off till I know everything is good. Also I'm planning to use regular 5-30 conventional oil.

I'll post pics soon.
Bdog.
 

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Discussion Starter #260
So yeah I got the parts installed and the block back together. Got the engine in the car and almost ready to go. I was super paranoid about everything especially making sure there was oil circulation. So I left the fuel and spark out of the equation and just set the timing and installed the necessary parts to get it cranking over which went well. I left the spark plugs in the holes but unthreaded so it would be easier for the starter to turn over. Then on my first crank the compression shot #4 plug right out of the hole. After some searching I found it on top of the crossmember, then I threaded them all in lol. Good news my battery relocation worked great and turns over the engine just like factory. Today I went back out to crank again still looking for oil. I got oil at the oil pressure sensor and I though yes!! went out to the store to but some new hose clamps. I got back and installed the rad and steering pump, then I realized I missed the knock sensor plug. I couldnt locate the harness side plug and I it was then I noticed the clutch was wet with oil!! Looked under the car and oh fuck, a leak at the back of the block somewhere, Great!!!!!

So I pulled the engine again and I found a leaking rear crank seal. I used an new one, but it was a bitch to install. Now Im totally confused as to what I should do about this. Can I replace it without pulling the block apart again??? I ordered a new seal from the nearest dealership and it should be here late next week but what should I do in the meantime? throw some gasket maker in there? That would be a redneck fix I know but would it work? If I gotta pull the block apart again its gonna suck major wang. Anybody had this happen before??


Heres the pics anyway





























 
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