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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #201
ooo white widebody...we can be twins! Car looks great, I want fresh paint!

If you ever get rid of that rear bumper, holler! ;)
I dont think my bumper would fit your car Steve, looks like you got the British Kit? The Aerosim kits are based on the 22B WRC, they are wider and have bigger wheel well circumfrences. I had to cut a LARGE section out of the quarter panels. You dont want to buy bumper from an Aerosim kit.

So if you ever decide to get rid of that spoiler, Holler!! haha
What did your EJ20K swap cost you total? PM me if you want.
Later man
 

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97 WRX GC8
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I got a question for you, do you know if there are like bolt on wide body rear fenders? or do you have to do it how you did? that looked pretty complicated, especially for someone without a shop to do.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #203
I got a question for you, do you know if there are like bolt on wide body rear fenders? or do you have to do it how you did? that looked pretty complicated, especially for someone without a shop to do.
I asked that question myself. I was disappointed about the rust coming back so soon after my first paint job. I looked all over for something "easy" to install and I did find a few. There are some Carbon fiber Quarter panels I saw time to time on ebay that looked they could be easily Riveted on. But the example car in the add didnt look too great. I saw those as a band aid no better than me painting over the rusted metal. There are some fiberglass ones on ebay too occasionally that look like they could be riveted on. but they would need paint for sure. Or you could go with S13 style Fender extensions for the widebody look. Not quite the same but they look good with rediculously huge tires.

Heres one example, all I did was type "impreza quarter panel" in google search bar.
Subaru Impreza / WRX Fenders, Subaru Impreza B22 Quarter Panels 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01

If you find a set and cant find a shop to install as I did or cant find the huge money to pay someone to do it then You could rivet them on without alot of trouble. Just make sure you pre-fit, pre-fit, pre-fit. Then seal up the rivet holes and seams along the body with some kind of silicone/goop/epoxy or water and dirt will get in there and your real Quarter panels will be toast.

But I would totally recommend waiting until you find the space and time then do an install like this one. It really wasnt very complicated.

So yes there are those kits out there that require less money (which is important) time, and skill to install. But if you ask me, that blue car looks like a half assed job, Id rather have my old rusty fenders on my old stock quarter panels. Save the money for a proper kit while you do the research for installing it and learn the skill while you do it! And your car will look way better. Win Win.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #204
I got some STI center cap emblems and painted the Chrome Drag center caps.


Heres the work I did on the Gas filler for anyone trying to do this later.
Trying to get fuel in this car has been tough since the kit was done. The fenders are easily three inches deeper at the gas cap than they were before. I didnt opt to re-install my stock filler cap which may have given me the extra room to maneuver the pump nozzle in there but even then I think its a stretch. You simply cant go to the pump and expect the nozzle to reach cuz it wont. The Shut valve (the one way flapper thing) in the filler neck blocks any fuel you may get in the big hole and you make a mess all over your car and the ground.

My temporary solution was to get a Jerry can spout and jam it in the hole past the shut valve, then stick the pump nozzle in the spout. Problem is you cant fill a car through a jerry can spout, unless you have a spare half hour at the fuel pump, cuz it takes a long fuckin time. Unless you barely squeeze the trigger fuel comes spraying back out the spout. I thought of using a funnel and a hose but no to that also.

I was smart and pre-removed the three screws that hold the upper filler neck to the car body from under the gas cap before I installed my new body kit. So in a moment of frustration I pulled my old filler neck out and went to the hardware store!!

The old filler neck.
I cut the top off right where the flared portion started. This portion holds the shut valve gizmo that prevents the gas from going down the hole. It also holds the gas tank vent relief hose.


The gas filler neck is approximately 1"1/8 I found some plumbing materials that could be used to replace the top of the gas filler with a longer section that works good.

This is the old filler neck
A section of High Pressure Hose with a rubber 1"1/4 double connector. (Red)
and a section of curved PVC 1"1/12 pipe with a rubber 1"1/2 to 1"1/4 connector. (grey)

I originally bought some 1"1/2 ABS pipe until I learned ABS pipe doesn't do well with Gasoline.

After cutting and fitting both styles of tube (both would have worked well) I decided to go with the grey PVC since it has a larger ID and I think will therefore hold a slightly larger volume of gas to go down the remainder of the stock filler neck, gravity always wins right? Plus the rubber end cap I bought fit perfectly on the PVC pipe. The flexible hose neither connector fit perfectly.



After re-installing the remainder of my old filler neck using new clamps I test fit the new top portion. I needed about 9" of pipe and the rubber connectors to make a perfect fit. The angle was just right using as much of the straight portion of the pipe as I could.


This is what the whole new assembly looks like.


Then it was just a matter of putting it in.


This is what you see now when the cap is removed.


The small hoses are a small issue. they are directly tied to the EVAP system and if you dont want CELs then they need do be addressed. As I found out lol. The shut valve hose is a open loop except when a fuel filler nozzle is inserted in the tank, when filling your tank the loop is closed, but the engine should be off anyway. The vent valve can be retied into the new filler neck if you really want it to but it is only used to relieve pressure when you're filling the tank. A big problem with these widebody kits is unless you use the old gas cap and cover youre gonna get a CEL for the EVAP system. P0440 if I'm correct. The standard "hey your gas cap is at the gas station" light. Thats not a problem for me since I pulled the light out

Make sure you clean out the hoses if you do this!!!! before re-installing.
Whether this was a coincidence or directly related I dont know
But the last time I took out my car....... my fuel pump gave up!
I cleaned that sucker good. Thats what I cant figure out. Maybe the screen inside the tank is loose or off. I'll have to see when I change the pump. I'm sure the codes I got when I read the CEL of my broken down car are directly related to this mini project to get gas in the car.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #207
Those are very nice kits, if you can get them. Yeah the installation would be very close to what I did. Maybe easier with the standard fuel door.
You are in Japan? That kit may be easier to get there. In Canada from the only retailer selling them wants $6000 Canadain.:confused: Rip off.
$2000 from England but no shipping available. So I went with Aerosim from California at $2350 with Shipping! Its a little bigger than the regular 22B kit. Aerosim has a full Carbon Fiber kit available as well. for around $4500
 

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Discussion Starter #208

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97 WRX GC8
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That HT autos is selling the kite for $1400. But you say they dont ship it? I havent talked to them yet.

I sent the HT guys an email they got back to me pretty instantly. $1400 for the kit, almost 800 for shipping though. Puts me around $2200, not a bad deal? My only question is how much it will cost to paint the car and such. Seeing as I dont have any type of tools to do anything like this I might have to pay someone to do it.
 

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99 22B replica
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Discussion Starter #210
Is that the whole kit including the bumper covers? $1400 would be a good deal then. If you cant do the body work or paint the car its gonna cost you considerably more. I guess it depends on the shop, here body work is VERY expensive. probably 4 times the price of the kit itself. There is alot more than just prep and paint involved in installing these kits to look good. I didnt even bother looking for a shop to install my kit. I guessed it would have been in the high 4 figures to the low 5 figures. Maybe Japan is different but the environmentalist movement has made a cheap paint job in Canada non-existent.
Unless its DIY.
Good luck man
 

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Well this is what it says on their website. Seems like it would be everything.

22B Replica 4 Door Body Kit for Subaru Impreza
10 Piece body kit to suit all classic(92-00) 4 door saloon Subaru Impreza.
Now with redesigned rear door skins to fit stock handles
 

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1996 2 DOOR RWD WRX
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The small hoses are a small issue. they are directly tied to the EVAP system and if you dont want CELs then they need do be addressed. As I found out lol. The shut valve hose is a open loop except when a fuel filler nozzle is inserted in the tank, when filling your tank the loop is closed, but the engine should be off anyway. The vent valve can be retied into the new filler neck if you really want it to but it is only used to relieve pressure when you're filling the tank. A big problem with these widebody kits is unless you use the old gas cap and cover youre gonna get a CEL for the EVAP system. P0440 if I'm correct. The standard "hey your gas cap is at the gas station" light. Thats not a problem for me since I pulled the light out

Make sure you clean out the hoses if you do this!!!! before re-installing.
Whether this was a coincidence or directly related I dont know
But the last time I took out my car....... my fuel pump gave up!
I cleaned that sucker good. Thats what I cant figure out. Maybe the screen inside the tank is loose or off. I'll have to see when I change the pump. I'm sure the codes I got when I read the CEL of my broken down car are directly related to this mini project to get gas in the car.
Are you talking about the two hoses in the corner of the picture? I know I had to reference a picture out of your post but it might not be the right one. BUT I have that p0440, and the my fuel filler neck is fine, I swapped the gas caps, checked the charcoal canister and the electric wires that go to it. Everything is fine, the only thing that I could say might be it is that the little flap that prevents gas from going in is stuck in the open position lol. When I looked at the neck itself it's fine no rust for some reason, just the flap is rusted open. Just curious if you could shine anylight on what you think it is. Sorry for hijacking this beautiful transformation.
 

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Discussion Starter #215 (Edited)
If your Shut Valve (that thing with two hoses coming off) is stuck in the closed position then it will definitely interfere with the EVAP system and give you a CEL.

When the flapper in the filler neck opens by the nozzle going in it closes the shut valve and the evaporation line is closed.
The only time that should be is when your engine is off and you are fueling. If that flapper remains open when you are driving the tank pressure sensor and the Atmos pressure sensor wont agree and trigger a CEL P0440 if I'm right.

So basically your fuel tank is closed to atmospheric venting through the canister. Not much to do except pull the filler line and WD-40 the hell out of that valve or buy a new filler neck.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
If your shut valve is stuck closed you'd be better off to pull the hoses coming of it and loop the two lines together with a single hose. That way at least your EVAP line will be open and you shouldnt get any more CELs
Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #218
I wish I was a genius, then I could have figured out why my car starts but then dies! Just replaced the stock fuel pump tonight with a nice new Walbro and it still doesnt run. The fuel pressure reg should be here right away. Maybe that will solve my mystery.
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Still having the same issue getting the car started guys. I have so far replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter, and pulled and cleaned the MAF. Still the same issue. She starts ok then dies almost immediately after.
Anyone got any wacky theories?
 

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Discussion Starter #220
So the issue with the starting and stalling has been solved. A new MAF sensor came in and the car runs again! Tonight I installed the 1" spacers in the rear to flush out the wheels. So soon it will be time for the winter engine rebuild I've been planning.

Does anyone know if the 08+ 11mm oil pumps will work on the EJ253s?

I wanna go with new rings, bearings, seals, Delta cams, port and polish and cylinder de-glazing, and a new header. Also new oil and water pump. This should bring the life back into the car hey?
 
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