[Vinnyevil1]

I changed the switch and Check the connections. It's 12 volt on the up and 12 volt on the down. Why does my window not go up but it goes down?? Please help I'm losing my mind

 

[lavere]

Sorry if I'm late to the party, but which switch did you change and where are you measuring the 12v? At the passenger windows switch? If so, are you putting your ground probe from the meter on the switch or common ground (chassis)?

 

[FIMeets]

Do you hear any sound from the motor like it struggling to push the window back up? Does it go up part way then crap out?

 

[ImprezaRSC]

Make sure you didn't hit the window lock button

I reset my switch with Subaru's recommended switch reset procedure.

Power window reset for Subaru - YouTube

 

[Vinnyevil1]

So if I swap the wires at the motor the window goes up when u press down on the passenger switch so I know the motor works both ways. When I changed the passenger switch with a brand new unit it didn't change what was already happening with the other switch. I also changed the relay yesterday with a new unit. I tested the sbf6 and the fuse is fine. What I'm not sure of is if I remove the fuse it reads 12 volts on one side, the other side should be dead of ppwer....But it reads 2.something volts, could it be a short or is there something wrong with the driver switch? Also from the driver side I get no use of the passenger window at all, it will only go down when wired correctly from the passenger window switch. And no lol, the lock button isn't depressed.

 

[lavere]

Don't forget that this circuit switches BOTH power and ground in order to make the window go both directions. That's why it's important to measure at the motor with the meter probes. Don't use a common ground approach or you'll chase your tail. I would start fresh by measuring the voltage at the passenger window motor with my meter probes on pins 1 and 2 and take a reading for up and another for down. I think you'll find you have 12 volts in only one direction. Once you know which leg you're losing (power or ground), you can move backwards from there.

 

[Vinnyevil1]

Ok so I checked the ground/power motor lines. There is only power going down as I suspected. I checked the blue and blue red stripe lines from the driver switch to the passenger motor and they make continuity from one side to the other but they supply no power from the driver switch to the passenger side at all. Is it my driver switch?

 

[silverton]

a bad master switch (drivers control) can make other windows not work.

 

[Vinnyevil1]

Also at fuse sbf6 which is for the windows and sunroof(which works great btw), if I disconnect the fuse one side has 12 volts as it should and the other side has 4 volts which in my normal mechanic mind should be dead, hence the reason for a fuse. I changed the relay and passenger side switch. If I disconnect the driver switch it still has 12 and 4 volts on the other side. Is this a short somewhere? Or is it supposed to read that?

 

[lavere]

Don't worry about the fuse. If it were bad, the window wouldn't work in either direction. Since you've verified that you have 12v only when the switch is in the down position, you need to find out whether it's the power or the ground leg that's being lost when the switch is in the up position. Put your meter probes back on the motor connector and put the switch in the up position. You said you didn't have 12v here. Leave one probe on pin 1 and take the other probe off of pin 2 and put it on a chassis ground like the door hinge or any bare metal part of the car's frame. See if there is 12v on the meter now. If so, then you've lost the ground side of the "up" circuit and we need to move backwards another step to see why.

 

[Vinnyevil1]

Ok so I'm going to step by step my answers here. I checked continuity by placing the probes of the meter into the green clip. at the green clip there is ground so the meter reads continuity and The signal is audible. Without touching the switch if I place one of the terminals into the green connector and the other to ground it gives me a sound if I take that terminal out of the green connector and place it into the other side of the green connector and put that to chassis ground then I get a sound as well.now if I hold the switch open or closed with either wire of the green connector and the probes to ground I get continuity sound for both wires. Again that's up or down on the switch. There seems to always be ground up or down and also in the neutral position. If I place both probes Into the green connector on the window down switch it stops continuity and no sound is heard. On the upswitch continuity continues.

 

[Vinnyevil1]

Again i have to add the passenger window does not work at all from the driver side. It only works down from the passenger side and only down. It worked when it wanted to until about 2 weeks ago then it died but never worked from the driver side since I bought the car a month ago

 

[lavere]

You seem to prefer using a continuity tester to troubleshoot this circuit. I must caution you against it. It will give you misleading information. The procedure that I outlined was for a voltmeter. You're trying to find a loss of power and measuring the circuit voltages is the logical way to proceed. If you follow the steps I gave you, you'll be one step closer to the answer.