I ended up comnenting on that several year old post “Gd struts on a gc” with a similar comment. We’ll see what happens.Hmm, I'm not too sure. For me the critical part was the actual rear tophat itself, not the rubber isolator.
Go ahead and disregard. The part is not correct. It was mis-labeled. 20375AA011 has different measurements. 1 being 3 15/16” inner diameter which sits perfect in the 4” 04-07 spring opening. What I received is closer to 4.5” inner diameter. Assuming it is from a GC.Hmm, I'm not too sure. For me the critical part was the actual rear tophat itself, not the rubber isolator.
Yeah we just worry about them getting so brittle that they crack and do more harm. They rode just fine, surprisingly comfortable. I got so caught up in the moment when I found the car I didn’t consider the suspension to be modified at all, so I thought I was just riding on oem with 17’s.Nice! Who cares what the springs look like, its how they ride that's important. And the rce yellows ride really nice on a GD
That’s awesome man! The best approach is to have a running driving donor mostly untouched. Maybe find something all rusted out but runs like a champ. Plan on the car being down awhile. Thankfully my wife and I have other cars and I also flip Subarus on the side, so I could afford having this off the road most of this year. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to bring them up. Good luck!great thread with great info, thanks for posting! I just brought home a similar coupe, but mine is not running at all with a big hole in the block, but that only made it more attainable for me and its motivation for the swap! I hope I can follow a similar path that you have, but I'm going to be doing all the work myself, (except going to iwire). I found a black 140MPH cluster in the trunk with mine, I didn't realize it was desirable!
I'm hopeful I can find a reasonable donor car without too much rust. I just moved home to the Pacific Northwest after living in the Midwest for 8 years, and almost everything is rusted to junk there, but not the same situation at all where I am now. I am planning on 2.5-3.5k for a donor car, and everything I've seen so far is free from rust, but might have a broken rear hub, or mismatched bumpers and hood, etc etc, but no rust, I can work with this!That’s awesome man! The best approach is to have a running driving donor mostly untouched. Maybe find something all rusted out but runs like a champ. Plan on the car being down awhile. Thankfully my wife and I have other cars and I also flip Subarus on the side, so I could afford having this off the road most of this year. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to bring them up. Good luck!
Do yourself a favor and read through as many blog posts on iwire’s website as you can. It was very helpful to me for how I decided on my donor.I'm hopeful I can find a reasonable donor car without too much rust. I just moved home to the Pacific Northwest after living in the Midwest for 8 years, and almost everything is rusted to junk there, but not the same situation at all where I am now. I am planning on 2.5-3.5k for a donor car, and everything I've seen so far is free from rust, but might have a broken rear hub, or mismatched bumpers and hood, etc etc, but no rust, I can work with this!
I am thinking 02-03 WRX donor + going to iwire + customized catback should get me most of the way there. I'm not trying to glaze over important details, but I've been told if I get a running donor car I will have a fair amount of what I need for this project. I have a beater legacy I just put a clutch in which is my new daily, and I have a Sienna my wife drives. Selling my Mini Cooper S with a stage 2 tune to help fund this project. I love the Mini and it's very impressive for FWD... but as fun and quirky and fast as it is, I am drawn to the flat 4 and AWD and so happy to have a little green coupe again. This will be my first turbo, coming from the supercharged Mini.... (long story short, I traded a model airplane for a Miata, fixed that up and traded that for the Mini...)