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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is there technical data like subaru merica manuals floating around here? this vehicle is heavily water damaged and has sat for a long time nearby. going to gut the interior.. and maybe wrap it in white. the original paint is pretty worn and some panels have damage.

2.2 manual. attached a small battery to see if there were any codes stored. cranked a bit but not too much just happy it even spins, battery is a tiny lithium for code retrieval. will have to replace the battery and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
it is growing new forms of land based aquatic plants inside having become a terrarium of sorts... have mostly gutted it, will remove the ac for simplicity and gut the doors and remove all carpet and trim as well. found some rat turds in the engine bay so thats a big plus, some custom wiring.. and at least a serious power steering leak. ran out of brake clean and will need to get more. when removing the ac will "relocate" the battery to in the car again to make the engine bay as simple as possible and easy to maintain. will try to crank more soon and diagnose no run condition. maybe will leave original paint scheme and get it fixed and painted original as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
more than just turds, a whole little nest :poop: ac was easy to remove and unbelievably still seemed to have a charge which i of course vacuumed into a container approved by joe biden who supposedly runs the government so everybody calm down (so many followers in my imagination just to clarify) and then immediately payed my taxes twice. will leave the accessories out of the way until it starts. will remove evap and condensor soon. will pull more eventually to clean it up like the intake yo grind all the casting flash. should probably start it first though huh 🤔 havent tested for spark or fuel or nuttin except the nuts it looks like some rodent left under the intake. i do wonder why there is oil and dirt residue on the intake on the driver side... i dont even see what could leak oil there if you were driving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
number 4 plug was stuck in pretty good. continuing cleaning and removing stuff. broke a fitting off the intake.. the hose routing is pretty crazy.. removed the condensor from the front and all the associated air conditioning piping in the engine bay. further tore apart the interior, all seats and carpet are removed. the plugs look okay, not new and not destroyed.. will modify jumper cables and install a battery in the passenger compartment. i couldnt find an easy way through the firewall yet and with the broken fitting it doesnt matter yet anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
okay. fresh oil and filter, new plugs. engine cranks and sounds fine but wont fire.. piss a bunch of nasty fuel out of the filter outlet, need to rempve the rest and refresh but that is not the problem.. spark tester shows no spark until the key is released as if some system is holding it down... crank and crank and crank, let go of the key and a weak spark. find crank and cam position sensor errors.. measure both and they are in spec.. will have to dig deeper. find minor damage to insulation of cam position sensor but nothing that should cause trouble (another fix but probably not error).. find 0 ohms to ground on both sensor connectors on one pin on both.. tech data specifies it needs a few more than that. will chew on it.

using torque and obd2 i do see a constant 25rpm even with nothing happening..
 

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I admire your tenacity on this project. I don't know I would have taken it on, but kudos to you. Looking at the stats, your post has received almost 500 views since april 10th, so there are a lot of lurkers, and not a bunch of posters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dang.. removing the pulley i dont have the "ST" to hold the pulley while loosening the bolt and thought id try to put a socket and ratchet on the passenger side cam to hold the pulley/belt, while torqueing the crank spun and skipped inside the belt.. so im retiming anyways. i dont think the cams slipped and they dont seem to be aligned...... not confident on this assessment... and timing error wouldnt trigger error code if just turning the key to on without cranking.. anyways.. its dumping rain outside so taking a break and popping the tensioner set off and setting it all back and reinstalling the intake and we will see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
retimed and it fires now. need to put new gas in it and troubleshoot the map error code p0106. strangely besides running rough up and down twice it took of racing to redline before i shut it off????

im going on vacation but will probably research map stuff cause im cool like that
 

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with range performance issue at key on, i'd start with replacing the sensor. Your pictures are kind of hard to follow with all the emoji included, i can't tell if you're trying to cover something up, or draw attention to that area for review...

Easiest to get the crank bolt with an impact, if you don't have one of those; brace a breaker bar against the frame rail where the battery is, or the ground, and bump the starter, DO NOT ALLOW TO START. As long as the crank was on its timing mark, you don't risk damaging valves when turning the cams.

These little guys here would have likely helped you out a ton.



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
with range performance issue at key on, i'd start with replacing the sensor. Your pictures are kind of hard to follow with all the emoji included, i can't tell if you're trying to cover something up, or draw attention to that area for review...

Easiest to get the crank bolt with an impact, if you don't have one of those; brace a breaker bar against the frame rail where the battery is, or the ground, and bump the starter, DO NOT ALLOW TO START. As long as the crank was on its timing mark, you don't risk damaging valves when turning the cams.

These little guys here would have likely helped you out a ton.



heck yeah man, i might end up just replacing the sensor but im going to isolate the EXACT error and try to be what shrodingers cat refers to as a 2% mechanic. im already so embarassed i just replaced the cam and crank sensors without 9000 percent confirming. they even checked good and i still fired the parts cannon ......

spend 1.5 minutes checking this out while i commit seppuku 🧑‍🏫
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
lol "back to square one" kind of. diagnosing other parts of system and go to crank and it wont fire, no catch at all?? codes spit out are the same cam crank sensor codes.. examine timing and find one tooth jumped on the driver side cam..... so a new tensioner. i wonder if thats what took this car out of commision initially. will replace and then onwards with the hike 😀
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
very disappoint. timed it perfectly 44 passenger 41.5 driver teeth and install new tensioner, find the way to set the cams and climb the belt on to get it right everytime now. attempt to start and IT DOES START ... FOR TEN TO TWENTY SECONDS ... it idles then down then back up then further down a few times before dying.......... and then it wont start again and throws the same codes it always has.. cam and crank error... pull plugs and use a wire to connect their outer section to ground and observe spark is happening.. after turning over find the old gas smell and visibly wet on plugs.... cam and crank ohm out around 2000ohms as always... check common connection around the engine quick disconnect and it seems fine... i dont know where the cam and crank error is coming from. i have checked the connection from ecu to sensors already maybe i will do that again? compression builds equally across all cylinders with a good initial kick.. maybe a leakdown test?
 

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